Stu 1986
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Everything posted by Stu 1986
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Get your arches rolled, that's what I did when I was having issues with my wheel, and never have since.
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I've got the Canley Exhaust on my car and it does look and sound good, although personally I felt it was a little too loud. It was resonating through the car, so I fitted a load of soundproofing in the boot area and made a carpet for the boot and now it's much quieter inside the car and sounds great top up or down. I've added a pic of what the canley one looks like on my 13/60 Convertible, which has a Vitesse engine fitted.
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Also check there isn't any paint on either the catch mechanism or the striker. They're meant to be bare metal not painted.
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Also check there isn't any paint on either the catch mechanism or the striker. They're meant to be bare metal not painted.
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Just to update, I've read some other stuff on the manifold wrap on other sites and sources and have decided against fitting it on my car. Four reasons for this: 1) It may begin to look scruffy sooner rather than later. 2) It appears to shorten the life significantly of exhaust components. 3) The heat shields look pretty nice, and I can put a slither of the heat reflective material I lined my gearbox tunnel with on the undersides for additional help. 4) I've fitted the piped to the air filter box and she doesn't seem to suffer as much as she did do. Thanks for the help and sorry if I opened an can of worms! 🤔
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I only use Shell V-Power also as it is 99 octane rating. The Triumph seems to like it, but I've never run her on standard unleaded. She still has her original head etc, no conversion. There is a night and day difference between using V Power and standard in my Saab. Put standard in and it's a fast car but put V Power in and it goes like it's jet powered!
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I have the standard cast iron one, so hopefully I'll be ok if I decide to go in for it. Speaking to a biker friend today he said he was wary of the wrap because he'd heard that moisture develops inside the wrap and accelerates corrosion on the manifold. Hmm...
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Hello Chaps, I've been suffering a bit with the fuel evaporation issue on my Vitesse engine. I understand the cause of this to be the heat from the manifold when the engine is switched off, and have seen some heat shields on eBay I was intending to buy in the near future. However I was musing on the matter today and wondered if exhaust wrap would help reduce heat? Is the wrap good or will it make little or no difference? Any input is very much appreciated. S. 😎
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Pretty much always sits where it's sat since I put the gauge in the car, but I did change the temp sender for a brand new one when trouble shooting a while back. I might pop the old one back in and see what it gives me. I intend on doing a full coolant flush and refresh when I hit about 500 miles, along with all the other fluids. I'm glad some other folk out there suffer fuel evaporation issues, at least there are some people who understand my woes! LOL
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I have the standard metal fan fitted to my engine, a re cored radiator and a NOS heater matrix. The engine appears to run slightly hot, on the gauge it sits above the N mark but not near the H. The only thing I haven't replaced is the water pump which as far as I can tell works. I am concerned about the warmer weather though, if it comes. If she's hot in 8-12c temperatures, how will she be in 20+?
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Has anyone used these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GT6-.....3:g:KrMAAOSwA4dWFkVF I'm looking for something that will stop or reduce the fuel evaporation from happening. It's hard to look cool leaving the somewhere when you appear to stall. Thanks, Stu.
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The new nuts went on well, I think the BSF nuts had maybe been tapped to UNF or something.
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Just thought I'd update you on this. My new nuts arrived today and I was able to finally get my tappets adjusted. So I started this job at 10:00 on Sunday morning and completed it at 17:45 today, the longest 20 minute job I've ever done. I had found in the intervening time a set of BSF spanners someone gave me, I suddenly remembered I had them as this issue ran around my head in the background. I found one the right size and got the nuts off and replaced them with the new 1/2 UNF nuts from Canleys. Tell you what though, I'm glad I did adjust them! They really needed it, a lot quieter now!! I've put a photo of the new nut on top of the old one. You can just about make out the old one being slightly bigger, I'd love to know what the thinking was behind using BSF nuts when it was done.
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They do look good those! Hopefully the new nuts will arrive tomorrow and I can get this 20 minute job, which is now up to about 60 hours, finished. Also on Thursday I will be visiting my local cycle shop to have a new accelerator cable made from some high quality bike cable. Only because the brand new replacement snapped.
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Although I should be getting ready for work, I went out and got one off using my Teng Tools Mole Grips. I'm now going to order a new set from Canleys, and hopefully they will go on with the correct tool. Best not to mess around and have the right stuff fitted. Thanks Chaps!
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Correct! + 10 Points! 😎 A 1/2 ring spanned won't go on, a 9/16 spins around freely. a 13mm grips slightly but won't grip effectively and will ruin the nut whereas a 14mm is way too big. WTF!! As an additional the 9/16 fits the nut holding the rocker shaft down perfectly, and you can see in the photo there is a slight size difference.
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OK I've been out this morning and taken a quick photo of the rocker gear and of the 1/2 spanner not fitting the nuts. It always seems to be the way when I set out to do a quick 20 minute job on the car, it turns into a massive saga! 🤔
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No way will any 1/2 spanners go on, and a 13mm just threatens to round the heads. I'll try and get pictures tomorrow if I can. This is weird!
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Hello Chaps, Firstly, I feel really stupid posting this but I am stumped. I took the rocker cover off my Vitesse Mk2 Engine yesterday to adjust the tappets as they need doing, but couldn't even get one done. Problem I have is no spanner I have fits the lock nut on the rockers. I've tried them in both imperial and metric and nothing fits. I've tried different makes of spanner too, Britool, Teng Tools, Snap On as well as some unbranded ones. The nuts are in good shape and none are rounded, am I missing something? Is there a special sized spanner for these? Thanks In Advance, Stu.
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Turns out it was just a blown bulb, put a replacement in there and all is well. Great Bit of Kit, recommended.
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I'll send you a PM
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This is true, the cut off for the crossed flags was around early 1971 for the last batch of 13/60s according to my information. There should be small holes on your rear wing for the badges to attach to.
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I've fitted one of these kits to my 13/60 today, and I think it's worked. It had to be modified quite a bit to make it work the way I wanted it to. I removed my old headlight loom and cut the wires to the bulb connectors on the new kit so I could feed them through the grommets in the headlight bowls, before soldering them back together. I then used one of the old bulb connectors on the main loom where the old lights loom meets it for the "trigger" plug on the new loom to connect to, which made it very neat I felt. I've placed the relays well out of the weather along with the fuse, which itself is connected to the B+ terminal on my alternator as advised earlier in the thread. I've used the ring connectors on the headlight earth wires to connect them to the body as Marcus advised too. So why do I say I think it's worked? Well when I lit them up first time, I noticed the L/H bulb seemed dimmer than the R/H one. I then started the car and ran it with the lights lit to see if anything got too hot etc. The L/H bulb remained dim, but then cut out completely. I felt everything, but nothing was hot even after 10 minutes. The L/H bulb works on main beam, just not dipped. The R/H one was nice and bright though. I'm using H4 bulbs, it might be a coincidence that the L/H bulb was on it's way out and has gone at this time. 😲 However I'm not sure how H4 bulbs work, does the main beam element still work when the dipped one has gone? 🤔 Thanks S. 😎
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And if this does prove to be the cause of your woes, and you're not too bothered about originality, consider replacing these bullet connectors with modern waterproof multi-plugs. Or even go a step further and add relays to help take pressure off the wiring, you can get relay wired looms for less than £10 on eBay. I'm waiting for mine to arrive.
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You'd be better off keeping it as it is, rather than changing it. Or you could do what I accidentally ended up doing, and making the cross over on the bulkhead. This was from a misadventure with a dual circuit brake system which I gave up on, so just fitted the appropriate valve to connect up the pipes where they were supposed to go into the dual circuit system. It doesn't look too busy or cluttered, and the rear pipes are fed along each side of the chassis rails using the correct clips and routing.