Stu 1986
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Everything posted by Stu 1986
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Thanks for the replies, I'll have them sand blasted then before I paint them again. Nylospray sounds good, but Ilford is a long way away from where I am sadly. Hopefully I will be able to find somewhere that can blast them with a decent turn around time. I'm giving serious thought to investing in a Canley's trunionless kit, which will involve further dismantling, so I might have the wishbones blasted too and paint them properly whilst I'm at it. 😎
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Hello Chaps, I painted the front suspension springs on my car about 9 years ago, one of the first things I did when I began my restoration/build. Being young, naive and new to triumphs I made two mistakes; 1) I used Hammerite to paint them and 2) I used the wrong spring compressors to do the job. So as a consequence chunks of Hammerite flaked off when the wrong spring compressors bit into the spring. So now I am in a position where I will be dismantling the front suspension area again to rectify another issue, I may as well do the job correctly. I will of course use the right spring compressor this time, but I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on the type of paint I should use? I was looking at flexible paints, but would normal paint do the job if I were to use the correct compressor? Or should I go even more extreme/expensive and have them blasted and powder coated? Thanks, S.
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These clip on mirrors are reliable and will only come off if they are either not fitted correctly or the bolts are allowed to work loose. I have a friend who has one on his Triumph 1300 FWD and I asked him when he fitted it. 1979 was when and it's been all over the UK with that car. Peter Crow has round versions fitted on his Vitesse at the lower part of the quarterlight in Lieu of fixed mirrors, and they look good. So good IMO that I am in fact going to copy his idea for my car as I don't want to drill into my bodywork.
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This is what I have after checking when I got home: 1 Pair of RED 1200 Door Cards 1 Pair of BEIGE 13/60 Door Cards 1 Single Black 13/60 Door Card-Vinyl part only 1 Pair of Black 13/60 Door Card- Has been Beige and painted black, and also have holes cut out of them for speakers. If anyone wants any of these, PM me for photos ETC. I'm still waiting to hear back from the OP about the blue ones....
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I'll have a look, do you want 1200 or 13/60 style?
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The ones I have are blue, I can't tell you exactly what shade they are, but I'll clean them all up and post pictures. They'll all want remounting on fresh card/wood as they are all warped.
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Yes I do, pm me with your email address & I'll send you pictures. As it goes I have a few different coloured ones if anyone else is in need.
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When I fitted my tank back I forgot to put the grommet in, and got sweary then. After doing it from the outside I swore more! "Who's F***Kin idea was this!?" was said more than once.
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They wear out so it is entirely possible that this has happened in your case. You've added 26 years to my age!!!
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I have a Saab and yes it has night panel function that turns everything off except 0-90 on the speedo. I've never found the Herald gauges bright enough to distract my vision though
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As Mark says the second position lights the gauges, quite why it operates in this fashion is a mystery to me, but I'm sure there is a reason for it.
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A new flasher unit is £5, it might be worth a try just dropping one onto the car and seeing if it makes a difference. There obviously isn't a wiring fault to the lights as you're getting them all to light up, you need to test your switch on another circuit to see if it's dud, you could just make a simple light circuit to try this if you have a spare bulb holder and some wire.
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Whilst you have it out it might be well worth taking it to a place to be cleaned and lined. I took my tank to a local place near the docks who does radiators and fuel tanks. It cost me £60 and he cleaned it out, treated inside and pressure tested it.
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I keep telling people these cars have feelings!
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I've had this wheel well over 7 years now and have read various posts on various forums about the best way to wire them, I think it may be a case of trial & error to get the standard horns to work off the wheel. However, I also have some air horns wired to a separate switch, so if the main one let me down at MOT, I have a back up
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In all honesty I'd rather it work from the middle of the wheel, it won't take much working out to get it to work.
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This is an interesting thread, I was curious about the method of using the O/D. I haven't used it on my car yet as it isn't finished, but I was wondering how to use it. I do have a couple of questions though; Why does it work on 3rd gear as well as 4th? When would you use it on 3rd? Ta, S.
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I have a 13in, dished, wooden Mountney steering wheel to fit to my car. It is smaller than original and will no doubt require more effort to turn the wheels, but I like it. I also required clearance for my legs. The other thing I will need to do when I fit this wheel, which will be one the the final jobs I do before I declare it finished, is to work out how to make the horn work in conjunction with the Mountney boss and Herald horn equipment.
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That's quite an array of equipment hanging under the dash!! What is it all?
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When I said it's empty, I meant until fluid stopped leaking out, so I assume it's below the seal now. I also looked at the diff itself and there isn't any fluid on the body of it anywhere. Here's a photo of the mess she left on the floor when I first discovered the problem, naughty girl! :P
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Thanks for your reply Pete, I might have to drop it in with someone to do instead. I'm not feeling confident about tackling that one if I'm honest. It won't take long to whip the diff off, seeing as my gearbox is out and away getting repaired. BX Bodger: I Have driven the car a total of 5 miles, I filled the diff with oil, and did that drive. I came back the following week and it had leaked out and has continued to leak until it is empty. I am off to Belgium at the end of the month, I might see about dropping it in at Canley's on my way past and collecting it on my way back. Maybe.
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PM me with your email address and I'll email you a PDF with fitting instructions.
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I've heard non too good things about Andrew Turner of late. Some say he takes on too much and rushes through them. Others can't even get in touch with him. I had a similar situation to what you describe on a Herald 1200, I replaced the starter solenoid and re did the timing. She fired up straight away and ran like a Swiss watch.
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Because I'm a raving loony I find the standard seat quite comfortable, and I'm 6ft myself. I have them on the lowest setting and nearly all the way back when I'm in the car and I find it quite comfortable. I have rebuilt them with new sponges on the backrests and replaced most of the old stretched out webbing with brand new wider stuff. I have no seatbelts in the rear of mine, and consequently I will never take any rear passengers, so my back seat will be for display only. I know of one Herald owner who has removed his back seat and uses it as a boot extension.
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Question is though, does it work? I wouldn't take it on water looking at those pics!!