Stu 1986
-
Posts
311 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Stu 1986
-
I did try starting it in gear, but the problem is my drive slopes uphill once you're out the garage, so the momentum soon ran out. The car was in daily use up until around Febuary 2014 when the Carb developed a problem. It was off the road for about a month or so whilst she looked for someone to fix it. At the end of that period we crossed paths and I had it fixed within a week of meeting her. She then continued to drive the car daily until about may when she contacted me again with clutch issues. She said the pedal had gone hard and she couldn't select gears. When I got there the pedal was rock hard and I discovered the pedal had the wrong spring fitted-a torsion type. I have fitted a new correct spring. The car has both county master and slave cylinders, if that makes a difference. One thing that has crossed my mind, and I'm cursing myself for not checking today, is if the hole where the pedal connects with the master has worn oval. I can't check now as it's dark and the car is squeezed into my garage. I will check in the morning though.
-
Hello Chaps. I've got my friend's Herald 1200 (See Thread "Meet Doris") at my house currently and have been doing some work on it for her. One of the issues she was having was with the clutch. I have spent most of the day trying to get this solved and I think the clutch may have gone. I want some opinions if possible, so below is a list of symptoms. 1) Pedal is rock hard with engine off and cold, but when removing slave from box the pedal operates as does the slave. 2) With engine running, same as above until the engine warms up, then I am able to press the pedal. The engine speed drops/labours and despite clutch being pressed gear selection is not possible. 3) With engine warm and off I am able to press pedal, select gear, then start the engine. The car is then able to move on the bite, but disengagement of the gear is difficult and once out won't go back in. Now I'm worried that it's the clutch at fault, but I'm also suspicious it could be a lack of gearbox oil. The car is at my house and I only have a small selection of my tools here as my own Herald, my tools and spare fluids are stored at my parent's house. I was considering going to the local motor factors and buying some gear oil but it might not be the oil level at fault. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. The car's owner is going to need to be told something, but I don't want to scare her by saying her clutch has gone. Ta, Stu.
-
After thinking about it I think I'll stick with the Triumph box. I don't like the idea of the gear stick being further back as it'll mess up my tunnel and custom console arrangement. I'll get my O/D box fixed up and be happy with that. Thanks for the input!!! 8)
-
There seems to be a number of different opinions out there, and I've thought about the responses people have given. My car is about 98% complete and after some gearbox work over the winter I'll be trying for an MOT in spring when she is 100% complete. After this and she is on the road I'll be putting her safely in my garage, and if I'm honest that is where she will probably spend most of her time. I don't see myself taking my Herald out too often, I'll probably only go for the odd pleasure drive on early weekend mornings or use her to visit my parents occasionally where I can park her in the safety of the drive. Anyway I was looking through my bookmarked pages on my browser and I spotted this I'd forgotten about. I'll probably get one of these instead of the trickle charger: http://www.batterybrain.co.uk/productspage.php Thanks for your input fellas, the battery on mine is a brand new Varta Silver unit and packs a big punch. It holds it's charge well and turns the engine over easily. The above product should work well with it.
-
Hello All, I have currently fitted to the Vitesse engine fitted in my Herald the Vitesse gearbox with the D type overdrive. We've established there is a problem with the synchromesh on 2nd gear. I managed to obtain another vitesse box with a knackered input shaft. The box had been stored in a damp place with oil left in it so it all works. I bought it with the intention of making one good box out of two bad ones. Someone has mentioned to me that the Ford Type 9 conversion might be a good idea, and I was just wondering if anyone here had done this conversion? Is it a good conversion? How does it effect the layout inside, i.e. will I need to change my tunnel cover etc. It's just a thought I've been having and wanted people's thoughts on it. I can get hold of a type 9 easily enough.
-
Hmm...Quite a few varied responses. I'm going to have a look & see what's what with the suggested units. Yes, I was concerned about possible fire risk but I know of many people who have used these chargers. A solar one won't work as I've bricked up all windows on my garage to eliminate natural light & the ability to see inside. I'll have a think.
-
Hello Chaps, I want to get a nice, reliable trickle charger to use on my Herald. I've got power in the garage & the car lives in there. Does anyone have one of these chargers, and can they recommend any particular type?
-
I might be able to help you as I have light and heavy ones in my carb spares. I won't be able to check/get them for a week or so though.
-
My current gearbox on my Vitesse engined Herald is giving me trouble, syncro has gone on 2nd gear. It's an OD box also, I have heard Mike Papworth is the man to speak to about these things. I was going to see if he could repair my box or if he did exchanges on good ones.
-
Hello, I don't know what the drive shaft situation is as they are what were on the car when I bought it and I haven't touched them. I can't measure them until I see the car next, she's stored 25 miles from me currently. I'll measure them at my next visit to my parents house. There isn't any rubbing at the front except on tightest lock, but I don't see me using full lock too frequently. I'll get these issues sorted over the cold months and I will definitely definitely have my Herald on the road next spring. :D
-
I've just been speaking to a friend of mine, and he reckons my tyres might be too big, any thoughts?
-
I'd like the box to function correctly really as it'd make life easier for me. I'm not sure I could do the work on the box myself, I might have to either get it looked at by my friend who's a pro mechanic or find a replacement box. I'll replace the clutch when I take the box off seeing as I'll have access to it. Anyone have any thoughts about my wheels offset? I'll be very sad if they are unsuitable for my car as I've put so much effort into bringing them back to glory.
-
What happens is: I can select 2nd when stationary without issue, and drive away in that gear. I can go from 2nd to 3rd no problems. But if I go from 1st to 2nd or down from 3rd, the gear doesn't engage instead choosing to make grinding, grating growling noises. Hope this clarifies things. Ta, S. P.S. The daily passed its MOT no issues. :D
-
OK, I've just been looking through my photos on my PC and I've managed to get this snap from one of the pictures of my wheels (before I paid a lot of money to have them refurbished! :-/ ) It has the offset etc imprinted on there. Any thoughts? As for my gearbox, I just looked on Canleys for a 2nd gear syncro cog, no longer available. I looked on eBay and a NOS one is £115!! I'm wondering whether to look for another box or calling a specialist. But in the immediate future I need to focus on my Daily car as it's MOT is tomorrow and I forsee I'm going to have to spend a lorra lorra money on various front and rear suspension components thanks to the third world roads we have to drive on these days.
-
It sounds like it's both sides, I was wondering if it's the rear shockers that have given up before the game has begun.
-
I meant to say when she is stationary, I'm unable to get my fingers between the tyre and the arch. I wish I had my own private lane, along with a 30x20 garage. LOL
-
Hello Chaps, I took my Herald 13/60 for a "naughty drive" to the top of the road and back, a distance in total of 1/2 mile today. The car is more or less finished after 8 years of restoration. It quickly became apparent I'm getting a fair amount of tyre rubbing on the rear arches, which isn't good. The wheels are a set of Cobra Super slots which were previously on a GT6, and the tyres are a brand new set of Firestone 175/70 R13's I've had some thoughts of my own, but I'd like some other peoples thoughts. The other issue I'm having is I'm unable to get her to shift to 2nd gear when moving, it slots straight in when stationary. I've driven about 5 "naughty miles" in the car and this is a constant issue. 1st, 3rd and 4th are fine and the O/D operates correctly too. I'm hoping this isn't some awful issue that'll cause me a huge amount of heartbreak and tears, but rather something that needs adjusting. Any thoughts on both issues would be very much appreciated. Ta, 8)
-
Just so you know, I kept the mechanical pump in the end. I had it rebuilt and it's working well on the car. I'm going to fetch her later and I look forward to a naughty drive around the block. ;)
-
Hello Chaps, My Herald has been with a friend of mine for a couple of weeks having her carbs rebuilt and tuned, and whilst he's been waiting for parts he's looked her over for other bits I may have missed. One area he identified is the fuel pump. The pump itself is a new one which isn't working as well as it should, plus the connections are leaking at the pipe nuts at both the inlet and outlets. He says the pump is scrap and I should replace is asap, and replace the pipe nuts. At this point I thought for not a lot of money I could replace it with an electric pump. What are peoples thoughts? Has anyone done this and had success? The mechanical pump I have fitted is new and has broken before the car has hit the road. It didn't have a pump on the engine when I bought it. The electric pump in my friend's 1984 Ford Sierra is 30 years old and still works. Hmmm
-
If you're not too fussed about originality then you could do what I did & use ones from any Ford made from about 1980-2008. I got a pair off a Ford Ka & they work perfectly.
-
If you're not too fussed about originality then you could do what I did & use ones from any Ford made from about 1980-2008. I got a pair off a Ford Ka & they work perfectly.
-
I have a set of cobra superslots (slot mags) which I've had restored and fitted to the car using a brand new set of nuts from Mister Tee. Here is his site: http://www.mistertee.co.uk He is uk based but has a good selection of types & styles.
-
You don't even have to drill the back plate, remove the brake parts & there is enough room to knock out & install the studs. Use an old wheel nut to pull them through. This is what I did on Rarebits Bill's recommendation.
-
The hoses & clips are all brand new, but that sounds like good advice just using water first. I should be able to drain it in a week's time. What is the capacity of the system? 33% of what total in other words. I'll need to get the cooling system filled so I can run it whilst I sort the mixture on my carbs etc. Ferny: I know where you're coming from there though: What starts as a 5 min job turns into 5 hours later you're on the floor with the nose in the air & lots of blood on your hands.
-
Hello Chaps, I've got to fill the cooling system on my Vitesse 2L engine. It's totally dry at the moment with new radiator & a NOS heater matrix. The pipes are all Kevlar ones from Canleys. How much antifreeze should I put in with the water? Also, does anyone have any tips for filling a totally dry system? Ta, S.