JimEB

Thanks Nick 🙂

Hi Mike, I saw these on eBay and grabbed the spec - missed out in the auction though 🙂 Thanks!

Thanks Richard 🙂 Alec - yes, I'm referring to the ones in the injector AND the throttle body 😉

Hey all, Can anyone please confirm the internal diameter and cross-section of the o-rings used in the injectors and throttle bodies? I've seen the following: 4.47mm ID / 1.78mm c/s 17.12mm ID / 2.62mm c/s Thanks! 🙂

Welcome to Triumph ownership  

Well, the engine and gearbox are back in the PI and I'm almost up to a thousand miles... Lots more to do on the drivetrain, with vibes at 60mph (prop/diff nosepiece) and then at higher speeds (possible tired hub/UJs)...

Rapidly coming to the conclusion that I don't have the kit/time to attempt this...

Hello 🙂 I keep reading that rebuilding a rear hub is a job for pros, but I'm sure that folk here must've done it successfully! The left one on my PI feels fine, but is rumbling at high speed... What kit and specific advice would one need? Thanks!

Pimento PIs are the BEST. Temperature gauge now working again, having fitted new sensor...

It must've been a messy divorce... My PI is not yet bring revved hard, but it wants to... Lightened flywheel balanced with crankshaft and clutch, TR5 cam, camshaft bearings...

It's all your fault Nick 😀 Mine has been pressed into action as everyday transport...which it appears to be enjoying...700 odd miles on fresh engine 😉

Earthed and the gauge appears to be fine - thank you 🙂 Sensor shopping now 😀

Hey all 🙂 As per usual, my PI has thrown up a fault the day after the MoT - it has a wicked sense of humour! The temperature gauge was working fine up until yesterday afternoon, now it does not move from beneath Cold. How do I test: - the temperature sender in the thermostat housing? - the temperature gauge whilst in situ? Voltmeter, rev counter and fuel gauge are fine, so I'm assuming it's not the voltage stabiliser. Thank you 😉

Thanks for the info, chaps 🙂

This is exactly why I've just fitted a Wosp starter to my PI... That and the fact that I'm fed up with the Lucas stuff - one even failed on me half way through a MoT test 😀

Hey all, I'm pretty sure that standard spark plugs for PI engines were Champion N9Y or N12Y. I've used N9YC and NGK BP6ES in the past, but am wondering if there's a modern alternative (better performance and longevity) that people have used and would recommend. Thanks 🙂

I mean the manifold studs (all three sizes)...

Howdy 🙂 I know that cylinder head studs (the ones which fit in the block) should be hand tight, to avoid unnecessary stress, but what about the studs in the cylinder head itself? Should they also be hand tight or locked in (using the double nut method)? Thanks 😉

Hi all 🙂 I'm looking for advice on low sheen black engine block paint. I don't want to use gloss, since that'll make it harder to spot/trace any fluid leaks...well, it's a Triumoh 😉 Thanks!

Hi all, Well, that was a busy day... The engine and gearbox are out, whilst I and my gallant mate are thoroughly knackered... After all my fretting, the gearstick was actually really easy to extract, although someone had obviously been there before and the little anti-rattle spring and plunger are long gone whilst the gaiter is split (although I note that CW is having these remade). Getting the clutch slave cylinder bracket off the engine back plate was a pain, since someone had reversed one of the fixings (I’m guessing during a clutch change) and we ended up having to take the sump pan off to get the bolt out!   The fuel issue was solved by thrashing the car to quickly drop the tank level and then I used a bit of 1/2" hose on the end of the fuel line to effectively raise the level of the outlet - it worked! If anyone out there is contemplating similar major surgery on their Big Six, I recommend three essential bits of kit: - Heavy duty, high lift trolley jack: much better than faffing around with a small jack and wooden blocks! I had previously procured via eBay some seriously beefy axle stands, so felt really safe working under the car. - Cordless impact wrench: probably the best money I’ve ever spent on garage kit. It made the job SO much easier than using hand ratchets. Of course, on reassembly, I’ll use a torque wrench to properly check fixings 🙂 - Thick foam mat: made scrabbling under the car comfortable and I ache less today than I'd expected to! Thank you all for your advice 😉

Cheers Colin 🙂 Flicked through a parts catalogue last night and familiarised myself with the various bits you mentioned. Now have: - beefy trolley jack - helping pair of hands - decent weather forecast Question: do I need to cap off the fuel line as I disconnect it from the metering unit or will the pump at the back effectively prevent the fuel tank from draining? 🤔

Hi! At long last, I've got some time this weekend to drop the engine/gearbox and get it all fettled ready for the RBRR in October... I'm going to be lowering as one, so could I get away with removing just the gear knob and not the whole gearstick assembly? Are there any hints/tips for getting the gear knob or gear stick off? I can sense that this might be one of those seemingly easy tasks that ends up taking loads of time if you don't know exactly how! 🤔 I think the rest of the engine drop ought to be relatively straightforward. I'll read the works manual tonight... 🙂 Also, does anyone have a heavy duty dolly that I could borrow, please? Localish to Winchester would be great. Finally, I might need a helping hand, so if anyone is at a loose end... 😀 (my RBRR co-driver is indisposed)

Superflex it is then! Thanks for you inputs 😉

I've got a rebuilt (well, hopefully, if I've not be conned on eBay!) manual rack to fit and am considering which clamp configuration to use. Thanks for voting 🙂

Hi there, has anyone got a portable/foldable engine hoist/crane that I could borrow this weekend, please? I'm based in Winchester and will have use of a van to collect. Thanks!