JimEB

Thanks for the offer chaps, but I've decided to buy a set and give it to the garage I'm using...to keep 'em sweet... ;) Besides, there's less urgency now since our favourite Big Six supplier let me down rather spectacularly, so parts ordered on Tuesday by phone were only shipped today. He could've told me rather than me having to ring and chase him  ::)

Hello  :) I'm rebuilding my PI's engine and rather than forking out for a honing tool, I'd like to borrow one from someone, rather quickly! I'm in Winchester and could pick it up during the day or evening. Cheers  ;)

Hi all, I might have to strip my PI's engine... I managed to get a very helpful series of Practical Classics articles covering engine machining and rebuild scanned (thanks Neil!), the first of which refers to an article in September 2012's edition covering an autopsy of the same engine. Does anyone have this edition piled up on their coffee table? Cheers  :)

Thanks all for your continuing input  :) Jason: I've found a decent test point that'll fit just before the MU: http://www.burnettandhillman.co.uk/en/products/index/view-product/cPath/57_77 I can't find cheap pressure transducers though!  ;D

You're right Colin and here's the proof  ;)

Richard_B wrote:Got one, shall I give that to Jessica with the compression gauge?   ;) Yes, please!  :) I've now done lots of research into which bits I'd need to build my own semi-permanent kit, using 3/8" BSP fittings and test pieces. I remember seeing one PI at Mark Swingler's place which had a pressure gauge permanently fitted just downstream of the PRV. Then there's Colin Radford's nifty piece of kit fitted just before the MU, as seen on his excellent blog: http://twomk2s.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-max=2011-03-04T20:35:00Z&max-results=7&start=35&by-date=false

Hi all  :) I've been looking around for a while but can't seem to find an off the shelf pressure gauge and pipes to quickly check my PI's fuel pressure as delivered to the MU. Does anyone have one lurking around that I could please borrow for a few days? I'm in central Hampshire  :) Thanks!

From memory (last did one nearly 20 years ago!), they drift out upwards. Come to think of it, if they were fitted from beneath, they'd eventually drop out... ;)

From memory (last did one nearly 20 years ago!), they drift out upwards. Come to think of it, if they were fitted from beneath, they'd eventually drop out... ;)

Richard_B wrote:The tester I have screws into the spark plug port and has a short (6") flexible rubber hose between the gauge and the connector. This gets around the dizzy. Oh! Are you going to the North Hampshire meeting on Tuesday?  ;)

Well, dry tested cylinders 1, 2, 3 and 6 yesterday, all showing around 190 psi, so that's encouraging! It's not burning oil, so I reckon the rings are fine. Couldn't get my eBay-tastic Gunsons tester into cylinders 4 and 5 due to it fouling against the dizzy, so has anyone used an extension successfully or could you recommend a different tester? Thanks  :)

Cheers Nick - I really should've thought of the inertia switch!  ;D

Hi all, Got myself a compression gauge so it's time to see how healthy my PI's engine is    ::) What should a healthy Big Six engine compression reading be? I guessing 10-15% difference across the cylinders is tolerable. Do you do your testing with the engine cold or at normal operating temperature? Also, what's the easiest way to disable the fuel pump - disconnect the wires at the pump in the boot or pull a fuse? I'll be testing the compression dry and then wet (bit of oil squirted into the cylinder). Thanks   :)

Didn't all 2.5 engined cars use 3.45?

I hope it's a Brown S....  ;)

thescrapman wrote:I, and others, have found to our cost in the past that doors fitted to one 2000 can be a shocking fit to another 2000. They must have "adjusted" the doors and the openings on the production line in order to get them to fit. I reckon the jigs for the shells must have been loose allowing the panels to fit together in a random manner, or the workers were just cowboys! If your doors are in anyway repairable, I would investigate that avenue first. Or be prepared to spend hours with a big hammer and/or welder. Cheers Colin I'd imagine that the tolerance stacking devised by the design engineers couldn't be delivered in practice by the manufacturing engineers  ;)  When I worked at Land Rover in the mid/late Nineties, the Defender BIW technology was about as old as for our Triumphs (!) and there was a fair amount of body and closure (doors, bonnets, tailgate...) alignment adjustment once the assemblies came off the jigs and fixtures... Modern BIW design and production technology is much, much more accurate, precise and repeatable!

Hi Mark, This should answer most of your queries concerning heads... http://www.chriswitor.com/cw_technical/head_applications_chart.pdf Cheers!  :)

After an incredibly busy few weeks, including moving house, I've made my mind up  ;D Pictures to follow when I've sourced the rims  ;)

2729 wrote: Practical Classics have been running a Triumph 6 rebuild series. Yep, I've heard of this. I've also received via a CT forum user the scan of a fantastic article from Classics Monthly, October 2009  :)

Richard_B wrote:Best improvement I found for a MkII PI was a lightened flywheel.  ;D Have you got a spare one Richard?  :P

JohnD wrote:This comprehensive engine build guide is about Triumph four cylinder engines but can be easily interpreted for sixes. http://www.totallytriumph.net/spitfire/engine_building.shtml One essential item for an engine with that long crankshaft is the crank damper pulley.    The outer and inner parts are joined by a thin rubber ring, bonded to each.    The rubber can perish and the two parts move in relation to each other.    As the TDC markings are on the outer you lose accurate TDC indication from the pulley.    So at some stage, such as before you install the cam shaft, check that the real TDC corresponds with the indicated position. And to find TDC, don't rely on trying to tell from a dial gauge on the piston top.  Make up a piston stop.  See: [Sorry, link no longer available] John Brilliant info John, thank you!  ;) I've already seen the finding TDC thread - interesting, understandable reading.

Nick_Jones wrote:Jim, Thought the car had only done 40K?  Should be 100k or so left in it.....  :P  Mine was at about 139k when rebuilt and the main problem was due to rusty bores from standing - otherwise a set of shells would have sorted it. Agree with the above.  Balancing and lightened flywheel are very worthwhile.   Some light fettling of the head is also worthwhile and will help efficiency as well as power. Could go up to a TR5 spec cam (MU changed to match) but mine makes 145bhp and a fat torque curve on the standard cam with just some headwork and a TR6 manifold.  Yes electronic management as well but I don't think that makes any more power than well set up PI. Nick Yep, now rocketed to 43k!  ;D The engine is (thankfully) strong, doesn't burn any oil, crank end float is fine, but this thread is about capturing hints and tips for the future  :) It's just that at some stage I'll probably want to warm up the engine a little  :)

timbancroft61 wrote:Going on from Richard's comments, I'd consider getting the crank, rods, pistons, clutch, flywheel and damper all balanced-smoother engine. Hardened seats for the exhaust valves. Nice clean and clear working space, Decent torque wrench, Payen gaskets, camlube or at the least STP for the camshaft, Stanpart manual for correct torque settings, get the block's waterways thoroughly cleaned out,take your time...... etc etc All sensible comments, thanks Tim  ;)

4058 wrote:Take pictures as you do it, then when you have any questions, or advice needed we can help!  ;) That's a damn good idea, thanks!

Hello  :) I reckon that sooner or later I'll have to give my PI's engine some fettling or maybe an upgrade or two  :) I'm a novice engine builder but am mechanically minded, although it's the little tips and tricks I'm lacking, e.g. spotting faults or damage specific to components (to ensure the right new parts are sourced) and how to ensure things are lubricated properly on reassembly (to avoid wrecking on first start-up). Consequently, I thought I'd start this thread to share the knowledge and experience within CT  ;) All tips and tricks gratefully received!  :)