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JimEB

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  1. JimEB

    Estate panels appeal

    JimEB posted a topic in Body

    Hi all  :) I've got the chance to save a rare MkII PI estate, but it needs all arches doing, plus at least one full sill. The car is too good to break, but it'd be folly to patch repair it to scrape through the MoT. Of course I'm aware that panels aren't avaiable from the usual suspects, hence my appeal to you. Are you hiding panels away for a rainy day? Do you really think you're going to use them? If not, then I'd love to buy them off you to save this estate, so please don't hesitate and get in touch! Any help appreciated, thank you  :)
  2. JimEB
    I've got a choice - sort out a few niggles on the Flying Tomato (e.g. I think the prop has gone out of balance) or get another Big Six and create a stripped-out, fast road car...
  3. JimEB
    Many congratulations to all that made it and commiserations to those who did not  :) I spent a lovely afternoon at Pimperne, counting them in and counting them out... It was fun speaking to many of you, and it was easy to tell if you'd had an smooth, event-free drive or were doubly worn out by the varying naughtiness of your rides  ;) Roll on October 2016... :)
  4. JimEB
    According to Facebook, Ted's on his way to borrow one from Andy Roberts  ;)
  5. JimEB

    25D6 Dizzy

    JimEB replied to Mosiac's topic in Electrical

    I'm pretty sure it's not from any of the Big Six family...
  6. JimEB
    Thanks all  ;) I suspect I might have a sticky injector, so I need to read up on how to disassemble and clean them, replacing the Viton O rings too  :-/
  7. JimEB
    To clean or not to clean? That is the question.  :) I'm talking about the throttle bodies, in particular where the butterflies sit against the inlet when closed. I've heard that cleaning out the things can lead to additional air leaks once 'sealing' muck is removed. Thoughts? Thanks  ;)
  8. JimEB
    Richard_B wrote:Do all the butterfly splindles open together? Yep, they do, but I think I need to finely adjust the daisy chain effect... I'll try to clean everything in situ - I shan't be lifting the bodies off the head!
  9. JimEB
    Jason wrote:The acid test is really simple, you should be able to stick your thumb over the air bleed and stall the car. If you can't stall it then you have an air leak - probably a poorly sealing (and therefore poorly synchronised) butterfly. This is all rather easier to diagnose than to fix  :o Yep, the thumb test is what led me to suspect butterfly issues - the engine didn't stall but the revs fell to around 400 and the thing just wanted to keep running! Lots of fun to come  ;D
  10. JimEB
    thescrapman wrote:Jim are you also getting a nice spray pattern, in addition to the feeling the pulses?? Cheers Colin Yep, but I'll double check  :)
  11. JimEB
    Hi all   :) I suspect that I need to have a look at the throttle balancing on my late, twin balance pipe PI. It idles pretty smoothly, but is a bit lumpy when pulling away, clearing its throat as you go up the rev range. Ignition seems fine, although I might get around to fitting a new coil and condensor at some point, there are nice pulses on every injector line and I keep a close eye on spark plug and points gaps. I'll also check that the distributor is advancing properly. I've got the works manual, in which there's a fairly rudimentary guide to setting up the late throttles (start at the front one and work backwards), but I wonder if any of you would have any practical hints or tips, please. I've already got a proper air flow meter (an old Crypton Synchro Check) and also a beer mat  ;D Thanks  ;)
  12. JimEB
    I'm excited too, even though I'm not in a car - I hope to jump into the Flying Tomato and see you all at either Pimperne or Didcot. Just deciding which is going to be the most interesting drive! Another 'sleeps' story. Our daughter just asked me how many sleeps it is until she goes to "Big School" at age 10. She started primary school this week and is not yet 5 years old...  ;D
  13. JimEB
    Doug_P wrote:Nice.   If you guys think all Scots are a bunch of idiots don't come here.   More thought is going into the decision we have to make next week than you muppets could imagine.  It is a very tough and dare I say scary decision and lots of us are very very uncomfortable regardless of which way the vote goes.     And I come onto a Club Triumph thread and find this crap.   Canleys have lost a customer - well done. I don't think Scots are idiots, far from it. My post was to show an example of how Scots had portrayed themselves in film culture - it's funny and perhaps ironic. I know you guys have an important decision to make, but I fear that there's a lot of disinformation around and there are inconclusive, short term views on the possible consequences. I fear that you may be sleepwalking into long term difficulties... Right, that's the end of politics for today  :)
  14. JimEB
    All the hoopla around the referendum simply reminds me of this wonderful piece of prose, written by a Scot and delivered by a Scot... http://youtu.be/29-LRuuqFT0 I hope the Scots understand what the consequences of Yes or No really mean to them. I fear they do not.
  15. JimEB
    Won't the sales of Lambrusco suffer?  ;D
  16. JimEB
    Nick - not wishing to tempt fate or my car's wicked side, all I'll say is that the engine is running fine  ;D. I've already put 1,200 miles on and it's revving rather freely...  ;) Enough! As for brakes, I'll keep the standard set-up for a good while longer. I'm not planning on any track days or Welsh roads... And now the search for a starter motor continues... :P
  17. JimEB
    Does your Big Six test your sense of humour? Mine does  :P I've been having some trouble with the new-to-me-but-not-reconditioned starter motor on the Flying Tomato, solved with a swift whack from a small hammer (the motor is jamming occasionally; the solenoid is fine). It was MOT time this morning and I warned the tester that the starter motor was iffy, so he let the engine run for as long as he could. He then had to shift it off the ramps to test the brakes, at which point he had to restart the engine. Yes, you've guessed it... Mind you he got to chuckle whilst I popped the bonnet and 'fettled' the starter motor... ;D After testing the brakes, he commented on how good the standard set-up is. After a few sums, he reckoned they were capable of stopping up to at least 2,500 kg, so that's roughly twice the weight of a Big Six saloon. That's interesting considering that I've been pondering over upgrading to the Stag set-up    ;) Oh, and the Flying Tomato passed, no advisories   :)
  18. JimEB

    Cam followers

    JimEB replied to Davemate's topic in Engine

    796 wrote:but wot ye set the rockers to set em to book figure is useless if there an indent in the pads. try set,n em to 6 ish, as set to 6 with a 4 indent will = 10, follow.!! M Wise words  :) Dave: have you taken off the rocker assembly to see how worn the rocker arm faces are?
  19. JimEB
    I think it's all fine Dave - if memory serves me well (no manual to hand), the Mk1 has a relay thingy like that as part of the starter/ignition circuit. Ready to be corrected!
  20. JimEB
    Hi all  :) Does anyone know the nominal internal diameter of the bore in the rocker arm, the one the rocker shaft slides through? Can't find it anywhere in either works manual. Just trying to work out how shagged or not my PI's rocker arms are... ;D Cheers!
  21. JimEB
    The sump's back on, with all four longer bolts at the rear - they didn't want to fit in the front... I'll tell you one thing, I'd like to travel back in time to meet the sadist that engineered the sump to have 23 bolts...and punch them...hard... ;D
  22. JimEB
    Richard_B wrote:Go careful on the sump bolts where they go into aluminium at the front and the back of the block. Make sure you have the right length bolts for those locations and don't over tighten them.   :) Two at the front into bridge piece and two at the rear into the oil seal housing?
  23. JimEB
    Hi all  :) I'll be starting to bolt my Mk2 PI's engine back together tomorrow, so I've been checking torque figures. There are some big discrepancies between the late works manual (which I ought to trust) and the recent TRGB articles in Practical Classics (which might include more contemporary wisdom), so if you've recently bolted an engine back together, what did you use for the following? Fixing: works manual / TRGB (all in lbft) Bearing cap to block: 50-65 / 60 Connecting rod: 38-45 / 46 (my engine is fitted with regular bolts, no washers, not the washer-faced, stretch bolts) Sump to engine: 16-20 / 20 Oil pump to block: 7-9 / 22! Cylinder head to block: 50-65 / 80! Rocker pedestal to cylinder head: 26-32 / 34 Thanks  ;)
  24. JimEB
    Thanks all for your input  :) Richard: I've not yet taken the bridge out to get to main cap #1, but will do so very carefully, once I've got the block supported so I can remove the engine crossmember to improve access. As for the head stud torque, my late works manual says 60-75 lbft   ;) Tim: I've not fully stripped the engine - the block's still in the car and I've not touched the timing gear/camshaft/crankshaft. This is a partial, get-the-car-back-on-the-road rebuild rather than an engine out full rebuild. Simply a matter of spare funds... The engine will be treated to a proper rebuild (balancing, lightening, fast road cam...) at some later date when I've got the proper funds. As for oil, I've been using VR1 for a while now and have fitted a spin-on filter thingy. Ted: it's a Payen composite head gasket, so I'll fit it dry. I'll follow your and others' advice re tapping/cleaning (again) the threads and studs. I'll oil the head studs to ensure even torquing-down; I'll eventually use copper slip on the inlet/exhaust manifold studs. Can't wait to get all this done  ;D
  25. JimEB
    Hi all, I'll be bolting my PI's partially stripped engine back together next week (head is off, the pistons are out, cam/cam followers/crank still in situ) and am open to advice on which lubricants and sealants to use. I've got some Graphogen to protect the new main/big end shells and oil pump (simply stripped, cleaned and inspected). A recent article by TRGB in Practical Classics recommended using Wellseal for the head gasket, but I think I've heard in the past that grease could also be used, as advised in the Works Manual. As for the sump and water pump housing gaskets, I'm thinking some form of instant gasket. What do you do when reassembling an engine? Cheers  ;)
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