JimEB
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Everything posted by JimEB
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Thank you both for your suggestions 🙂 Tim: interesting to read about the Sterling Rattler damper...bit like Shacktune's, eh?
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Hi, I'm after recommendations for decent, reliable people that can balance engine components properly: crankshaft, flywheel, conrods and pistons. Preferably not too far from me - I'm based in Hampshire. Thanks 🙂
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Hello :) I need some, I've done some research as to the different types available, so can anyone recommend a specific type, please? Thanks ;)
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If I were you Martin, I'd get yourself to the Triumph Spares Day at Stoneleigh on 1st March and visit the folk at the Triumph 2000 Register stand. They'll happily give you advice, plus there'll be cars to point out exactly what to look for ;)
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Simply brilliant work Lloyd - now let's start saving Big Sixes! 😉
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Chris Witor recommends skirt clearance of 0.00225" to 0.00275" for County pistons but I'm guessing that's for a road car...
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Is there any other way to drive a Big Six other than in a distinctly spirited fashion? ;D
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Look at part 2 of 5 of the six pot engine build articles I sent you - it shows what's involved during crank balancing ;)
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£325 per wing is a bargain given the very low production run and tooling costs. I mean, it's only four tanks of petrol! What would happen if, God forbid, you had a prang in your car and needed wings, eh? Scrap your pride and joy?! Lloyd: thank those who've stumped up the cash already and kick those who haven't ;D
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thescrapman wrote: Or he may just be suggesting you make a Mk2 PI out of a Mk2 2000. Nah, that's been done... :X http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C557774
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I tried...but now it's gone to auction... I hope someone doesn't buy it and break it ??) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-25-Pi-MK2-ESTATE-/291312472097
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1555 wrote:ive just read rob pearce`s blog,,it that the same car? Yes.
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??) http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C562121#
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No longer required... :-/
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So was the MC designation simply a late effort to formally identify the crank bearing and cam follower size changes?
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So, after chinwagging with fellow Register member John at the NEC last week, I learned that there was a MC engine fitted to the last (facelifted) MkI 2000s ;D Apparently they're super smooth and feel more torquey than the MB engine spec. Much debate has happened on the Register forum, but there's not been a definitive answer yet. Does anyone know the spec of this unrecorded engine?! ::)
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Yes, but the issue is that the larger spring (on the right in the photo above) doesn't go into tension before the cam beak hits the end post... ;) I'll call the Distributor Doctor tomorrow :) Does anyone know of a Lucas parts manual, listing springs/weights for each distributor?
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Well, the stripdown revealed that the cam was pretty much rusted to the shaft, so no wonder it didn't move smoothly and would sometimes get stuck at some advanced point, leading to variable tickover speed and unsmooth acceleration :roll: I took this photo just before removing the cam, so that I'd be able to put everything back together properly and not 180 degrees out... You can see the rust at the top of the cam... I gave the whole thing a thorough clean, but didn't take the shaft out of the body, since the bearing seemed to be fine. As for lubrication, I used grease on the action plate under the advance weights and their pivot posts, then engine oil on the cam and shaft. Having cleaned both fixed and moving parts of the base plate, and because there's no vacuum advance, simply micrometer adjustment, I simply used grease upon reassembly. Everything is now clean and working smoothly. One advance spring seems to have stretched or is simply the wrong one (I suspect the previous owner had been down there before) so I reckon I've only got one gradient of advance controlled by the primary spring. Nevertheless, the car is now driving much smoother, particularly at lower revs were it had evidently been suffering from a lack of advanced ignition. I'll be able to give it a good road test and fine tune on Friday, when I'll be blasting up to the NEC to work on the Register stand :D The moral of this story? If your engine's not pulling well from tickover, twist your rotor arm!
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Triumph 2000 MkII September 1969 up to May 1974. Originally mated to an automatic gearbox (BW = Borg Warner). :) I'll get my coat (anorak) ;)
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Thanks chaps :) I'm sticking with the dizzy, Nick, since I hope to keep the car as original as practicable ;) Pimento cars simply have added character...
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Hi all, Whilst fiddling around with my PI in an effort to trace the cause of hesitant revving when pulling away, I found not only that one of the front balance pipes (near the butterfly, not the head) was starting to split, but also that when twisting the rotor arm by hand, it felt notchy and not smooth as expected. This explained the sudden jump in advance whilst revving I'd seen the last time I had the timing light out... So, I guess a strip down of the distributor and thorough clean is in order. Now to my question - what type of lubricant is correct and where should it be used on the mechanism? Thanks :D (It's the correct, non-vacuum advance 25D type)
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Sadly, I'm well aware of the facts of life Ted...
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I've been offered a pair of salvaged front wings and a NOS rear wing, thanks to you Russell ;) Still searching for further panels at real-world prices :)
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Thank you all for your input thus far :) I was already aware of the MkI/MkII panel sharing on estates, but didn't know about the rear end rot trap around the tailgate ??) Hopefully I can get this car rescued and stored somewhere (anywhere!!!) so that I can restore it when I've gathered all the panels ;)
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RussellBanyard wrote:Jim, I have 2 salvaged MK2 front wings with reasonable arches. I also have a new N/S estate rear wing (correct estate with no petrol filler) Probably better to see them used than sit in my garage forever. Are you still interested in my 2.5 engines? Russell. Hi Russell, I've just emailed you ;) Cheers!