JimEB
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Everything posted by JimEB
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Hi, I suspect my PI's rockers have pitted faces - they're getting noisier and are hard to adjust. I appreciate that the shaft will most likely be worn too... Is it worth trying to get them refaced or simply buy new ones? I remember reading somewhere that Triumph ones were only face hardened to a miserly depth ??) If new, then Chris Witor advertises NOS ones, but are the Rimmer/Moss ones NOS or repros?
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Who's got what to do for 2014?
JimEB replied to AlanChatterton's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
4247 wrote:Buy a car. Prepare it. Enter the RBRR for the 1st time. Find a co-driver. Get some sleep beforehand. ;D Well, I've ticked one thing off the list... ;D -
Stop press! I've found a source of 185r13 tyres! http://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?details=Ordern&cart_id=50370036.110.31261&kplz=&Cookie=&ABT=&typ=R-214607&dsco=110 Anyone want to help me rob a bank? ??)
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Thanks all for your interest - it's been fascinating getting your views :) Revvies are certainly attractive, but since my car is my daily driver, I'm not massively keen on polished portions on alloys... I could do without frequent refurbishing costs!
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Keep going Lloyd - all your hard work will be rewarded ;) Adding to Dave's words, I've noticed a big difference between now and when I last drove a Big Six, from 1993 to 1997. Back in the Nineties, my 2500TC was perceived to simply be an old car, completely ignored by others. In fact, Big Sixes were still relatively easy to come by... Now, the common perception of my PI is evidently of it being a classic car: people smile or come over to strike up conversation. The Big Sixes are becoming scarce - I'm not sure if this is good or bad :-/
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piman wrote:Hello Jim, "As you may or may not know already, I've got to replace the 13" tyres on my PI, which leads to the inevitable change to 14" or 15" rims." Why is it inevitable? Alec Hi Alec, Because I can't find quality 185R13 tyres (my PI is a daily driver) and I don't want to run 185/70R13s, which are also becoming scarce... :)
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All I can add is that I'm sure the design engineer tasked with drawing up the mount never, ever had to try and fit one... Best done at one's local garage, with a four post lift... ??)
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Hello :) As you may or may not know already, I've got to replace the 13" tyres on my PI, which leads to the inevitable change to 14" or 15" rims. Here's a simple poll to see what common opinion is! I've asked a couple of wheel refinishers for costs to blast/powder coat old Stag 14" steels, and it appears that the going rate is £40/wheel. Is this reasonable? ;)
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Update... I removed the original prop - both UJs knackered... A new prop was put in, but one UJ grease nipple was too short, so couldn't engage with a standard grease gun nozzle... Complained to supplier... Meanwhile, drove the car for a week, all serious driveline vibration gone :) Replacement prop arrived yesterday, free of charge, fitted and now there's some vibration at around 60mph :( but I'm not sure this wasn't also present with the first new prop! I thinking that I could try changing the orientation of the prop relative to the diff and gearbox flanges... Right thinking?
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Thanks all for your varying observations ;) I'm giving Valvoline VR1 a go and have also fitted a spin-on adapter today :) Got to look after that bottom end ;D
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Thanks all for your varying observations ;) I'm giving Valvoline VR1 a go and have also fitted a spin-on adapter today :) Got to look after that bottom end ;D
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Richard_B wrote:Valvoline VR1 20w/50 bit expensive, but Eurocar Parts frequently do discounted prices (inc free delivery) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/20w50-engine-oil/?521770500&0&cc5_251 Currently £26.34 VR1 seems the most popular - thanks for the info Richard ;) I agree that it's false economy to skimp on oil...
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Richard_B wrote:Valvoline VR1 20w/50 bit expensive, but Eurocar Parts frequently do discounted prices (inc free delivery) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/20w50-engine-oil/?521770500&0&cc5_251 Currently £26.34 VR1 seems the most popular - thanks for the info Richard ;) I agree that it's false economy to skimp on oil...
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Simple enough question! I'm guessing 20W/50, but the original specification oils like Castrol GTX have long since changed formulation. Thanks ;)
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Simple enough question! I'm guessing 20W/50, but the original specification oils like Castrol GTX have long since changed formulation. Thanks ;)
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Is it worth chatting with Mike Weaver? I remember him finding a decent CV supplier when fixing his FF estate.
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1529 wrote:If it's a MK2, the steel wheels I've got won't fit! Sorry. Andy Eh? I thought Stags had only one size of steel wheel or are you talking TR6?
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1529 wrote:MK1 or MK2 2.5PI? MK2 1973, so with black painted bits on the trims. But I could paint plain ones!
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Hello! I've got a 2.5PI which I'd like to keep as original looking as possible. Since the tyres for the standard 13" rims are now as rare as anything, I'm looking to find some Stag 14" steels with the Rostyle wheel trims. Do you have any lurking at the back of the garage? If so, I'd love to hear from you! Cheers :)
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Nick_Jones wrote:Paid a bit under £200 in Somerset recently. Only the exhaust valves need seats. You'll most likely find that the original head will go on for a good while on unleaded anyway. While seat recession has been reported by a couple of people in CT they both use their cars hard over long distances. My Vitesse head did several tens of thousands of miles on unleaded without recession before being removed for other reasons. Getting suitable seals in the MU will be more pressing unless already done. Nick Good price! The reason I'm costing this up is that I suspect low compression on some cylinders. The bottom end seems fine - no rumbles, no oil being burned (clean exhaust, spark plugs look tip top) :)
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Just outside Chichester, almost in the Channel, so that's Down South ;D Pricing sounds about right :)
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Hi all :) Popped into a local engineering firm today, to get a feel for how much it'd cost to refurb a PI bare head ready for unleaded use. Crack testing, three angle seats, guides redone as required, new valves (I supply) lapped/ground in. Three day turnaround. What would, in your experience, be the going rate to such work? Thanks ;)
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Spent the day with my Dad, and he passed on some prop balance wisdom. Apparently, when he was a Triumph driver (TR2 in the early 60s, Triumph 2000 in 70s and early 80s), one trick was to put a very large Jubilee clip on the prop and then play around with its position to get decent balance ;D
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Have you looked at the tech stuff on Chris Witor's website? There's a PDF documenting cylinder head applications in his Technical section: http://www.chriswitor.com/technical.php
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8017 wrote: Ah right is there a balance weight currently fitted to the shaft? Yes, but I'm going to get the balance checked in any case ;)