Heres some stuff. Bit expensive and no idea if it works but given the price of those window rubbers might be worth a go. Also might protect tyre walls from cracking...
Theyre 86 plus vat and del. now but the only alternative is secondhand and they probably wont be in much better condition than the originals😒
Be interesting how they last Wendy as some new rubber components these days start breaking up very quickly...
The ball (theres another one in the inlet to the accelerator pump) act as non return valves to ensure fuel always gets pumped in one direction (out of the nozzle) however has said nozzle goes quite high maybe the second ball isnt needed. You could test it when the carb is assembled by getting fuel into the float chamber and manually seeing how efficiently the accelerator pump works...
Sorry cant help on the job but first have you sourced a new sunroof as they are horrendously expensive! Even second hand they are so sought after that even in only reasonable condition they go for hundreds...
That would be pretty difficult to do and Rimmers says a double filament bulb (GLB380) was used. That makes sense as the 5w filament would illuminate with the side lights and then the much brighter 21w light up as well and flash when the indicators are operated. Both are earthed through the lamp case and this arrangement would then be much easier to convert as Wendy has done...
oh I see, both filaments earth through the case of the lamp which then has a strap to earth it? Probably better than using its fixing screws to the bonnet as they always rust....
Wait a minute Richard surely both the filaments of the bulb, one supplied by the side light feed and the other from indicators, must earth down through the case...
Yes the spindles not so worrying as theres always going to be some leakage and its effect should be minimal...
With the vacuum dome maybe its been distorted or theres a burr or something stopping it seating properly? Again although it has to be corrected the effect is probably small but have you got a running problem?
Of these two issues the most worrying is the vacuum dome as this should have a tightly sealed joint. You should be able to suck on the vacuum connection to it and block it with your tongue so it holds vacuum...
I thought this problem had been resolved and they now come with lower seats. Certainly I replaced mine a while back with items from Paddock and no issues found...
Unfortunately not very clear but this is from one of the manuals Clive mentions. Theres some access holes through the door inner to get to various fixing screws so you can release the channels. I would start with the back one which has two but is also strengthened by that cross wire at the bottom and try to engage the glass correctly...
As the gear is plastic and that sounds metal to metal Im going to go with a motor bearing having collapsed and its rotor is now rubbing against the stator☹️
Is your oil pressure warning light working? Ive changed mine to a very bright LED bulb...
Generally oil pressure is highest when the oil is cold and new then drops as both of these factors change.
The other thing that affects oil pressure is the state of the engine. As the crankshaft bearings and/or oil pump wear their clearances increase so leakage makes system pressure drop.
Finally oil pressure gauges are also known as 'worry gauges' exactly because they can induce excessive concern😁 They can be quite inaccurate so really youre looking for change in the reading to indicate a problem...
Unfortunately as standard the Stag gearbox input shaft diameter was bigger (1.25") than that of the saloon units (1.00") so the friction plate definitely wont fit....
Quite often I think the problem is only quality control so you get components like that tensioner which are fine and then a batch which are too hard or too soft! Unfortunately to get them made by a company who will do things better usually means quite an increase in price (especially if not made in a cheaper labour area) and finally the buyers have to be convinced of the improvement...