beefertoo
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Everything posted by beefertoo
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trying to fit a type 9 gearbox to my herald and i'm a bit short of ideas for the 'box mounting. any suggestions please, with pics if possible...... thanks craig
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give Marcus (gt 6m) a shout, he's got some and builds them spot on. he's built me 2 with no issues at all. craig
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finally got to measure it and a dolomite rear 1/2 between the u/j cups is 31", if you added a flange instead of the center bearing then it should give you 33 1/2" if that's close enough? craig
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what about the rear half of a dolomite/toledo? have one in the garage i'll measure...
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well i'm now sorted out, nearly. got a rebuilt 3.89 from GT6 M on here at a good price(he has others) thanks for everyones help,now to find the time to fit and trial..... looking forward to a quiet drive (well as quiet as a herald gets) craig
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thanks nick, will be on the look out for a 3.89 then. just have to keep the car local till i find one.. craig
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thanks nick, there are sharp edges on the c/w. I did wonder if a 3.63 might be pushing it and i'm not wanting to be putting a 1500 in,i'm quite happy with the 1300. will the 3.89 c/w replace my 4.11 c/w meaning I can use my original carrier etc? or will I have to get a diff that was 3.89 to start with? sorry for the q's but its an expensive mistake to make.... craig p.s if any one has a spare 3.89 diff for sale please????
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thanks pete, stripped and rebuilt the diff with new bearings and seals paying particular care over the preload/ clearances etc but its still just as noisy...... looks like i'm needing a new crownwheel and pinion set (one side of the c/w teeth have a 'mottled' look to them), something is grinding itself to bits as there is metal chips in the oil when I split the case. currently its a 4.11 but would it be better with a 3.89 or even a 3.63 set? has an o/d box with a standard engine but I do a lot of motorway driving craig
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thanks john, the size of the bolt please. craig
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hi, does anyone happen to know the thread size for the crank pulley bolt? craig
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just finally got my herald back on the road but now its got a noisy diff or gearbox,i cant decide which. basically there is a high pitched whine from it when either accelerating or cruising that gos completely when I let off the power. it does seem to be coming from the rear but I've just changed the diff with still the same noise. its a 3 rail o/d box and standard diff, could it be the box? if it is would it be worth converting to 5 speed? thanks craig
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No the nosepiece was the one that came with the 'new' diff,i only remember this as I was going to change it over but couldn't get the old one off! Not that it was something that I considered/knew about when I was swapping bits about, just thought it quaint that a manufacturer put such things as packing pieces under the engine mounts and suchlike. Out of interest where is the 5/8 or 7/8 measurement taken from? My current pi has some vibrations to look into when I get time Craig
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when i get there i'm going to try rover 200 style (because i have some) but you can get a shallower 'bucket ' seat from the likes of midland wheel center. craig
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fairly sure the bolt pattern's different,thats for the 1 1/2(similar carbs on the dollys). i may have a sutible manifold for the 1 1/2 if you get stuck. craig
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end of the week would be fantastic, i could get the engine in properly then. beer tokens waiting with a big thank you. craig
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due to a slight oversight---- namely i chucked the wrong one out :B where can i find a flywheel for my 1360, a later one with diaphram clutch. ta craig
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air liquide is cheaper than boc and do a 3 month contract. i have an adams gas bottle,as has been said good service but with the amount i was using at the time taking into account the del charges i was better off with air liquide. craig
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ahh so its not just me then.... seriously though i only want the flanges and the bearings are scrap anyway. they are not on a car so cant try that method but will try hot water or a blowlamp though. craig
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hi, any tips on getting the rear hub flanges off? i have made a tool similar to the spitfire ones and wound it up but its not budged yet? big hammer time? cheers craig
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I wouldn't, use a da type sander and decent 120grit pads,it will be done in no time. Or try nitromors or similar, both way cheaper and potentially less damaging. craig
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i assume it wont go in 3/4 either? have you tried starting it in gear(clutch pressed) seeing if its not releasing enough or not at all? craig
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wow, how good does that look........
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Spearson wrote:I have encountered a problem with fitting these wheels to my car. Namely the rear hubs. I have tried and tried to remove the hubs from the driveshaft to no avail. I have read in several places that you need the special triumph hub pulling tool but i'm not willing to fork out £50-60 for one. I already have a sturdy hub puller which i have tried to use and it will not budge, i even tried using a slide hammer on the hub puller to free the hub, but nothing. If i can't remove them i'm thinking about replacing the entire halfshafts with reconditioned ones from canley classics. Unless anyone can suggest anything to help remove the hubs? what problem with the hubs? i was going to put sprint wheels on mine and the only prob i found was the center being a bit tight,could you not clean the center hole of the wheel out with a flap wheel in aa drill if so. craig