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Docman

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Everything posted by Docman

  1. Thanks Bill (Rarebits) - I'm sure you are correct in that (at least) the base that resides in the metal channel needs to be a relatively high durometer whereas the seal probably doesn't. A coextrusion makes sense.
  2. Thanks Bill (Rarebits) - I'm sure you are correct in that (at least) the base that resides in the metal channel needs to be a relatively high durometer whereas the seal probably doesn't. A coextrusion makes sense.
  3. Hi Bill (Rotoflex), Kyle (Triumph Experience) said the profile you sent me (thanks, by the way, I forgot where that image came from) was the incorrect profile?!? The weatherstrip on the silver GT6 came from Spitbits, apparently the same as the Mk3 Spitfire winshield header seal. Baines wanted a sample to match before selling.  I would have thought they might already have catalogued which seal is correct per a given application. I'm more confused than ever.
  4. Hi Bill (Rotoflex), Kyle (Triumph Experience) said the profile you sent me (thanks, by the way, I forgot where that image came from) was the incorrect profile?!? The weatherstrip on the silver GT6 came from Spitbits, apparently the same as the Mk3 Spitfire winshield header seal. Baines wanted a sample to match before selling.  I would have thought they might already have catalogued which seal is correct per a given application. I'm more confused than ever.
  5. Sorry Bill, his seal image didn't get attached.  Here it is........
  6. Sorry Bill, his seal image didn't get attached.  Here it is........
  7. Bill - therein lies the rub, Baines stocks a large variety of seals, but are unable to tell me which may or may not be suitable without a sample to match the dimensions, profile hardness, etc.  If you know that none of their seals match what I need, I don't know where to turn. On the US forum, an owner claims that the door seal on his 1967 GT6 is the same as the convertible top seal for a Spitfire (unknown vintage) per attached image. I've recently suffered a broken leg so I haven't been out to verify, but I believe my 'C' channel is against the outer edge of the top of my sill (horizontal surface) extending slightly up the forward door opening, not the side of the sill (vertical surface) as his 67.  He has a nicely restored car but I wonder if his sills have been replaced or perhaps Triumph changed the 'C' channel and seal location between 1967 and 1972???
  8. Bill - therein lies the rub, Baines stocks a large variety of seals, but are unable to tell me which may or may not be suitable without a sample to match the dimensions, profile hardness, etc.  If you know that none of their seals match what I need, I don't know where to turn. On the US forum, an owner claims that the door seal on his 1967 GT6 is the same as the convertible top seal for a Spitfire (unknown vintage) per attached image. I've recently suffered a broken leg so I haven't been out to verify, but I believe my 'C' channel is against the outer edge of the top of my sill (horizontal surface) extending slightly up the forward door opening, not the side of the sill (vertical surface) as his 67.  He has a nicely restored car but I wonder if his sills have been replaced or perhaps Triumph changed the 'C' channel and seal location between 1967 and 1972???
  9. Although the individual I bought my car from did it no favors, its obvious that it was pampered for most of its life (no rust).  The sill 'C' channels don't have a single bend, crimp or other imperfection.  They look rather silly sitting there when its so obvious that something that should be there, isn't.  Also, I don't think Triumph would have gone through the engineering and expense if these seals didn't have value. I'll likely buy the weatherstrips from Rimmers (a bit less than Canleys) come Spring, but I would certainly appreciate pictures showing the correct profile and orientation in the 'C' channel.  Neither Rimmers or Canleys images are of much help. I've emailed Baines - I'll report back to the forum.  Thanks Leigh!
  10. Although the individual I bought my car from did it no favors, its obvious that it was pampered for most of its life (no rust).  The sill 'C' channels don't have a single bend, crimp or other imperfection.  They look rather silly sitting there when its so obvious that something that should be there, isn't.  Also, I don't think Triumph would have gone through the engineering and expense if these seals didn't have value. I'll likely buy the weatherstrips from Rimmers (a bit less than Canleys) come Spring, but I would certainly appreciate pictures showing the correct profile and orientation in the 'C' channel.  Neither Rimmers or Canleys images are of much help. I've emailed Baines - I'll report back to the forum.  Thanks Leigh!
  11. There is a 'C' channel in the bottom of my door sill that is supposed to hold a 2ndary seal. One member sent me the attached image and I have contacted a rubber supplier in an attempt to source the seal, but he wants a small sample piece to match up the hardness, etc. Can anyone out there oblige or provide an existing source for this seal?
  12. There is a 'C' channel in the bottom of my door sill that is supposed to hold a 2ndary seal. One member sent me the attached image and I have contacted a rubber supplier in an attempt to source the seal, but he wants a small sample piece to match up the hardness, etc. Can anyone out there oblige or provide an existing source for this seal?
  13. MWS has all the info you need. http://www.mws.co.uk/site/cms/contentChapterView.asp?chapter=1 If those will work on your car, keep in mind that 40 year old wire wheels may not be ideal.  I went through a lot of time and expense restoring a set, and although they looked beautiful, they were still not like a new set even with new spline adapters.
  14. There is roundtail GT6 owner stateside that just mounted 14 inch wires (I believe they were 5 inches wide) from Dayton - he went with larger brakes and needed the taller wheel. He kept the same oversize tire OD that he had been running with his 13 inch rims.  I would have gone lower profile tires to maintain the factory OD and speedometer accuracy. For some reason I think the roundtail proportions just look better with 13 inch rims whereas squaretails seem to lend themselves to 14.
  15. I have the manual from Bentley - pretty extensive!
  16. Docman

    MX5 Seats

    Good call Mark.  When reupholstered, the factory seats are great with recline and full pivot forward features, I'm not sure if MX5 do both. I had a friend of mine redo mine with new foams and Bridge of Weir (Aston Martin) perforated leather - very comfy and breathable. A local embroidery shop stitched the Triumph shield onto the headrests for $5 each.  I had him embroider a couple shirts too, for that price.
  17. It's been my experience that the splines on the adaptors wear prior and to a greater degree than the splines in the wheel hubs. DONOT bother with used adaptors. Used wires are not the best of ideas.  Although I got my set for next to nothing and after a lot of time and money they weren't too bad, they still (obviously) weren't in the condition new ones would be.   I eventually went with alloys.
  18. 7923 wrote:I too think wires are gorgeous, have been considering them on my gt6 but it a mk 3 so undecided, and they are a lot of work, already have a set on the mgb. Well maintained they make the car look amazing. Tim Started with wires on my Mk3 (never came loose, BTW) but wound up with 14 X 6 alloys.  Seem to better fit the style and character of squaretails.
  19. 9555 wrote:Mk3 Spit. Originally 3.5's... fitting 155/80's.... My mate at work is looking for 155's for his Elan and can't find them.  Do you have a source?
  20. Good for you Jonesy!  Having the inset wire basket, they remind me of Boranni's - beautiful.
  21. Docman

    GT6 Rear Seats

    Safety and usability notwithstanding, the rarity of a rear seat may raise the value of the car. Unfortunately, it represents extra weight, but if you're just cruising around, I say go for it. As much as I like the ridiculousness of them, adding to the car's appeal, I can barely get anyone to ride in the passenger's seat (up front) due to it's relative small size.
  22. Jonesy - it's a little difficult to tell, but the wires on the image you posted (your car?) look like they're wider than standard, like Smithy's - very nice!
  23. I would agree that my car's feel tightened up when I went from my 40 year old wires (with 175 X 70 X 13 tires) to new alloys 14 X 6 alloys (185 X 60 tires) but much of that may have been to the shorter sidewall height and larger contact patch. As handsome as they were on the car, I decided that wires looked better on roundtails whereas the overall more modern squaretail was better suited to alloys, so I sold them to a neighbor with a 68 GT6. In retrospect, I should have kept the wires for show, alloys for go.
  24. You will thank yourself everytime you engage the O/D.
  25. Call John at QuantumMechanics and he'll set you up with everything you need except finding a shop to shorten your driveshaft. http://www.quantumechanics.com/qm-htm/spitfire1.htm That's the best upgrade I've made to my car. I have the 3.27 original differential and the car still has plenty of torque to accelerate in O/D from 40 mph.
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