Docman
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Everything posted by Docman
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There are Cibie "Z" beam knock-offs from India that have been panned, but I have been very pleased with them, and I have yet to install my relays. They do such a good job, I may not go with the relays. The downside of upgrading electrics is exceeding the capacity of the factory alternator and battery.
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michael_charlton wrote: You can buy grained effect black poly carbonate sheeting Polycarbonate has the WORST chemical resistance of any plastic resin, not what you want for under bonnet! ABS isn't much better. Polypropylene would be better, but Tony Dunn's louvered aluminum pieces are extremely nice and they will likely allow a bit more air flow than solid panels. Fasten them securely with rubber washers and they should never rattle.
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michael_charlton wrote: You can buy grained effect black poly carbonate sheeting Polycarbonate has the WORST chemical resistance of any plastic resin, not what you want for under bonnet! ABS isn't much better. Polypropylene would be better, but Tony Dunn's louvered aluminum pieces are extremely nice and they will likely allow a bit more air flow than solid panels. Fasten them securely with rubber washers and they should never rattle.
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I've been following your progress, and you should be very proud. I'm amazed how much rot you found once you got started. I must admit, I'm more than a little apprehensive of what I might find, when I get around to it.
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pencil eraser?!?
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Is there a trick to removing a stuck oil pan drain plug? This looks like the one on the differential which I finally gave up trying to remove and went to a shop that could get to it easier from a pit. Are these a tapered thread? Is there a more convnetional plug available (hex head, integral gasket/seal)?
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Looks good. I gave up and left to to the people that do it for a living, it took 2 men the better part of the day and they said that they would never do another. Too bad because I've now got a new windscreen waiting to go in after paint (whenever that happens). I believe they took the windscreen out, placed the new trim into the new rubber, finally inserted the glass and then massaged the completed assembly into the car.
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I've done the straight swap, and although they are still an improvement from sealed beams, I know their output will be much higher with relays. Just not at the top of my priorities at the moment
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You DO make it sound simple. Thanks!!! I still want to get rid of the solid mounts and steering knuckle at the same time.
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thescrapman wrote: The pinion is tightened to eliminate play at the straight ahead position, and as off center isn't worn, the rack gets very tight. So I should check my rack for play when it is off center? How is the pinion tightened, and that will make it too tight elsewhere on the rack? That must mean the pinion isn't worn, just the center part of the rack (where its position is 95% of the time)?
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rotoflex wrote:FYI Docman: If your rack is worn to the point that it may need to be replaced, the word I read here is that Spitfire racks are quicker, although a little higher effort. Bill - With my 13" steering wheel (better ingress/egress) and wider meats, I've already increased my steering effort enough (can't have the biceps get too big). Besides, jumping from my modern into the GT6 and back, the steering is about as quick as I care to have it. I find myself overcorrecting every time I drive it. Someone in another blog stated if I have play in the rack, I can turn the pinion upside down. I'm having a hard time visualizing this unless the pinion gear is a separate piece that is fitted to the splined pinion shaft. If so, how is it accessed? Is the pinion gear a softer metal from the rack making IT the wear (and serviceable) component? And what (if any) is "acceptable" play in the rack? I don't doubt that the solid mounts compounded with sparce grease (the rack took quite a lot once I inserted the Zerks nipple) has accelerated the rack wear.
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How much play should there be in the steering rack; I think mine might need replacing. I can twist the steering collumn about 10 degress each way (along with the splined pinion) before I see the track rod ends begin to move. I was hoping it was just a worn knuckle, but the play is in the rack, the pinion and the knuckle seem to have no play whatsoever. From prior responses received, I'm beginning to think that play in the rack is the major contributor to the car's twitchiness over bumps at speed. It also seems to wander a bit. Maybe the PO installed the solid rack mounts hoping to tighten the steering?!? It probably exacerbated the issue.
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Additional tightening seemed to take care of my problem (at least for the time being) - the squeak was right side only.
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My GT6 developed the same squeak. Annoying, particularly when I figured out what a silly fix it was.
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242 wrote: How many turns do you get on the nut? When i fitted minilites the original studs where suffcient to get the nut on, but not long enough really, i went the Jigsaw route, but the Landy one seems pretty popular. RR Let's see - 3/8 UNF is 24 threads / inch, so I think I'm getting maybe 15 threads engagement with the wheel lugnut (assuming the lugnut is threaded all the way down the conical profile), as opposed to the 12 or so thread engagement with the wire wheel adaptor nuts. Both the Minator and wire wheel adaptor thinnest conical base cross section are less than 1/4 inch, but the adaptor is steel whereas the Minator is cast aluminum. RR - how much aluminum on the Minilites cover stud threads., in other words, are the holes conical cut, and with how thick is the residual material for the lugnuts to press into?
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Agreed, they look great, but all this talk about changing studs and lugnuts has me a bit perplexed. I have installed a new set of 6 X 14 Minators with the nuts provided and I have a good 1/2+ inch of thread in contact with the lugnuts. Is this not enough? That's more thread engaged than when I was running adaptors for my knock-off wires. Someone has mentioned that one upgrade, whilst using my same lugnuts, is to just get longer studs at Jigsaw (or equivalent). Others profess thicker LandRover studs, but will these fit through the wheel lugholes, and what about chamfer? Am I really at that much risk using my existing studs? I tend to think my "shorty" nuts as part of the splined adapters were hand tightened (no clearance for a socket) with an open end wrench for the majority of the car's life. After all, LandRover studs need to carry a lot more weight and be able to withstand significant off-road abuse - just a reality check, here ;)
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Sorry - waxstat? Unique to SU(s) or Strommies, too?
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[quote=7330]I picked up some light grey - premium quality wool lining which will have a warm soft look to it. I would be interested in a fabric headliner as opposed to vinyl. Where did you find it?
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What cracks am I missing in the attached image? There are supposed to be NOS (new, old stock). Nobody bid on them, probably because its near impossible to find another two, new or old. Roger - its your GT6 that convinced me that I want them. I like the monochromatic look, too. Looks great on white.
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Thanks, I just don't like the proportions of 15's on these cars. Not many choices in 14's unless you can live with minilite knock-offs - I can't, too commonplace. There is a pair of 14 X 6 Revos on the US ebay. I'm afraid to take the plunge.
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There must be a couple out there. Any leads will be appreciated.
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Great choice for the body paint!! It's making me rethink mine.
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Smithy - there's a couple of us die-hards still hanging on to wires.
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Or you could contact Randy at Prestige Autowood. http://www.prestigeautowood.com/ I haven't priced his work, but it looks wonderful
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I started with the Monza system but eventually swapped out the 2 rear silencers with Magnaflows. Nice low burble now. The loudness is fun for a while, makes you feel like you're driving a track car, but it DOES get old.