Docman
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Everything posted by Docman
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Lest we not forget the Holden Torana GTR XU1. The OZ folks seemed to have success with triple 150 CD Stroms.
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Then there's the predecessor to the 2500 PI that was sold in Australia, the 2000 MD (Managing Director) which ran triple 150CD stroms and was reported to be spitited and very tractable. http://www.flickr.com/photos/28130065@N02/7174238096/ I wonder what cam it was running?
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What made series I E types (same firing order and SU carbs) run so well?
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I have queried the Sideways forums and there are discussions regarding Triumph 1-5-3-6-2-4 firing orders not being condusive to 3 carb setups, odd cylinder pulse pressurization resulting in reverse induction (fuel stand-off), balance pipe and manifold heat optimization, and on and on. Series I E type firing order is the same, as was the SU carbs targeted. What made them perform well by comparison? Am I missing something, have Richard Good and Jeff Palty engineered out these issues or should I avoid this conversion like the plague? And you brought up another point Smithy, I currently have emmision carbs. I would probably need 3 pre-emmision units.
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I am hoping to get some feedback from GT6 owners that are currently running triple Strombergs. How pleased are you with the conversion, was it worth the expense? Since I already have a mild cam and header, a triple Stromberg setup seems to be the most logical and cost effective next step to improve my engine's performance. Richard Good and Jeff Palty (here is the US) each have decades of building Triumph 6's, and although their main focus is the larger TR6 engine, they claim that the triple 150CD setup has been very effective with the 2L engines. Also, 150CD's are shorter and fit under the GT6 bonnet without modification. I know a popular upgrade to series II E types is to revert back to the triple carb setup of the series I cars - that has to tell you something (I would think)?!? From Richard Good's site: The Triple Stromberg System has grown steadily in popularity since I introduced it in 1991. More and more TR6 owners are realizing how well it performs, offering the high performance they want without a sacrifice in fuel economy or street manners. I have had great success using this system on high performance TR6 engines that I have built and have received excellent reports from customers who have installed the kit on their engines as well. I have always worked with the 175CD's but some of my customers have had equal success using SU HS6's. Strombergs and SU's have a sliding air valve creating a variable venturi to maintain high air velocity across the jet regardless of the volume of airflow. At idle when the engine is using very little air the air valve is only open a crack so the air still rushes past the jet to properly mix the fuel. As the throttle is opened and the load on the engine is increased the air valve rises, riding on the airflow to maintain velocity. At full throttle under load the air valves are fully open exposing a wide-open passage for air. This performance simply cannot be matched by a fixed venturi carb. If a fixed venturi is sized large enough to provide adequate flow at high rpm it will not mix the fuel properly at low rpm resulting in poor fuel economy. With triple Strombergs the fuel mileage is generally in the mid 20's and the performance is fantastic with instant acceleration and smooth power throughout the rpm range. Installation is easy with no modifications required to the stock carburetors. This system is a worthwhile improvement to a stock engine and is of even greater benefit to a modified engine.
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I'm embarrassed how simple the fix and how long I waited to do it. Thanks all.
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Bill - no OD. Left stalk is turn signal, right is headlamps. There is a third stalk for OD? The relay I hear might actually be for the horns (on the bulkhead) and I've just got some wires crossed. I haven't gotten around to installing horns yet.
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After replacing my ignition switch (which mean't pulling the steering collumn) my headlamps now only function for high (dip) beams. The running lights (exterior parking lamps, sidemarkers and instrument lamps, that aren't burnt out) are fine. I am nearly positive that I had labeled every hanging electrical connector (associated with the steering collumn) properly, for re-installation. One obvious change now, is the orientation of the connectors on the backside of the ignition switch. The original switch had vertical rows of contact blades, whereas the replacement connector blades are in a ring around the periphery. I can't imagine that this has anything to do with my issue, but maybe?!? This may be important: Oddly, when I move the stalk to engage the low beams (which is now in the down position), I hear a relay behind the fascia clicking, trying to do something. I don't remember the proper orientation of the stalk for low and dip beam (since this was my first repair and I've lived with the issue for a year now), but common sense tells me that the dip beam would likely be in the down position. Any thoughts? Electricals are my bain!
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Does the engine temperature matter? It's been a while but I think the engine should be up to temp as you would do when checking valve clearances, correct?. Again, I may be off base, it's been a while. I need to check both on mine.
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Not bad but still a pity. Minilite knockoffs are like a$$holes, everybody has em.
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I know there has been prior discussion, but I can't seem to find the thread. What is your experience with the resulting steering feel when replacing a steering knuckle with a full metal vs. a rubber bushed part. I imagine the feel will be very direct without the rubber, but could it be overly direct? My car is a cruiser, not a racer.
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I think it all depends on what look you are going after. If you want a classic, old school appearance, get a thin rim, 15 inch flat wood wheel, like a Nardi. I went for a more updated look with a fatter, leather, slightly dished, 13 inch wheel. Did you decide on a paint color yet? I'm having the same quandry. At first I said its got to be dark BRG, then maybe Guards Red - something that will pop. Now I'm thinking a medium dark electric blue metallic to highlight the beautiful lines of the car, but I also like the cream color used on old Morgans and XK120s (might be better for global warming conditions, too - we've had a CRAZY hot summer). Aaarrgghhhh!!!!!
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I wonder if the Newton foams (1969 - 1970) GT6+ referenced are the same as what was on my US MkIII GT6?
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Keep in mind that foams for the high seat back seats are not readily available for sale. I had my upholsterer fabricate something to augment the low back foams, which are readily available.
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Pacesetter 6 into 1 with Monza exhaust. http://youtu.be/kayEOoVM0v4
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Hard to put a price on piece of mind. I had my uprights apart fairly recently and installed new trunnions along with shocks and springs. There was some pitting on the threads - I showed them to a mate at work who has MANY toy cars including an Elite and Moodini that he races and he told me I was overly concerned and paranoid. Years back I actually had an upright break on a TR4 at 70 mph on a motorway; I had to make a panic stop with the wheels turned to avoid rear ending the car in front of me, but that was my 1st (in)experience with Triumph front end lubrication coupled with excessive lateral loading. The car gave me a vibrational warning before it broke; too bad I didn't know how to interpret the warning. If and when I decide to replace my GT6 uprights, I will probably go trunnionless 1) for the piece of mind and 2) each of my repairs usually involve an upgrade. This may be either the next time I need brake pads or when I replace my bushings (unless the uprights break, first). I don't drive my car very hard or far, but you can never predict events like panic stops, either. My Europa had original uprights, but front end weight was minimal when compared to a GT6.
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One of my cars has a Momo wheel that I've had to touch up the color with black dye and then seal with black shoe polish, just as you might have to do on shoes. Once buffed, very little color is removed. This of course is smooth leather, not suede. All I can say is to give it a try, buffed dye without the shoe polish, and then with it. Great looking wheel, by the way.
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Last week, a young girl of 4 or 5 standing on the sidewalk, covered her ears as I approached and passed her at mid throttle. Perfect!!! I'm running a Pacesetter, 6 into 1 header and Monza exhaust. I should have someone record me, so I can hear what it sounds like outside the vehicle as I pass - sounds great from inside.
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Really depends on what kind of driving you do with your car. These are kind of loud, but the song is sweet, fine for the daily commute and short trip. If used my Triumph for longer trips, I'd want something quieter. There's also the added safety benefit of knowing that in traffic, I can be heard if not seen.
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I kind of wish my GT6 had AC (particularly as I get older), I'd probably get more use out of it. What possessed you to remove it???? Before my wife and I were married, we drove my convertible Mustang to the Keys with no AC. Now I can't get her to to go to the cottage (1 hour away) with the top down (THE CAR, for those of you with your minds in the gutter). I've always wanted to take the drive out old rte 66 before it disappears altogether - without AC, I'd have to go solo, I'm afraid.
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rotoflex wrote: Perforated inserts too, Docman, how much did they set you back? Usually I love the smell of leather in a car, but I must ask how they've been after a hot summer in a GT6. You may no't have a reference to compare with the OEM seats, but how would you rate stickiness, warm/cool, does it smell luxurious or like a hot cow, etc. I seem to remember $1300, but that was covering everything in Bridge of Weir (Aston Martin) hides except for the rear panels which were done in vinyl. My buddy wanted to do the door cards too, but my masonite was too far gone and VB had new replacements for $110/pair. I probably should have made new cards (I think a previous thread recommended 1/4" plywood base) and had him do those too. That would have made all touchable surfaces leather (but definitely more than $110). If you add in the cost of new foams, door cards, furflex seals, most of the carpet, replacing what was missing when I bought the car plus steering wheel, I've nearly doubled my initial purchase price just re-doing the interior. At least I've said goodby to the orange vinyl, cordoroy and shag carpet (still need a plan for the shit-brindle brown paint). It's only been 4 months so I still smell leather, and the seats are not sticky on even the hottest of days. It may be tough to justify the extra expense of leather, but your interior is where you interface with the car, what you see while driving and its just so buttery soft! Mmmmmm New foams made the biggest difference - the old ones had turned to dust. I can't see why anyone would want to swap out their originals when the factory units are so good.
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Bill - you are truly a wealth of knowledge. I'm kind of glad that I didn't know about Newton Commercial when I was redoing my seats last year, however. I probably would have done something I'd regret like getting the kits and trying to do them myself instead of having my upholstery buddy do them in leather with embroidered logo. As it was, I had to settle for low back foams from VB and he fabricated new headrests. Not original, but extremely comfy and I actually like the way he used single piping around the entire seatback and not also between the headrest portion. Makes the the headrest look integral to the design rather than tacked on.
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Nice but not cheap. Make me give up my wires? Nah
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I understand your grief with the windscreen. I just wanted to have the brite trim inserted on mine, but my local glass shop insisted on new rubbers too. After a few hours with his mate, the job was done. He said he would never do another. I'm glad the glass didn't break because there are apparently none in the US.
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Smithy - I would like the link to the stainless ones from Viet Nam, they don't show up on the US ebay. My bumpers really let my car down - front dents, pitting and rear holes (over-riders installed by a PO), resulting in a lot of expensive work for the rechromer. They're OK for now, but once the rest of the car is completed, they will have to go. Same for the outer door handle body plates.