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partsaver

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Everything posted by partsaver

  1. partsaver
    That's why the diesel fuel that goes in the tank used to be called DERV fuel (Diesel Engine Road Vehicle) so it wouldn't be confused with other diesels or oils.
  2. partsaver
    Remove the sump and the oil pump to clean it out properly, and buy a cheap oil filter and cheap oil to give it a flush out run up. I normally run engines for about 30 minutes to flush them.
  3. partsaver
    Go to a craft shop or old style camera shop and buy a  piece of filter card, the type that was used on stage lighting and put if behind the speedo glass, it won't fade as quick as a coloured bulb.
  4. partsaver
    I have only ever used Halfords classic 20/50 or Comma 20/50 in all my Triumphs and it is also what I put into the Austin's I have been restoring. Another very important thing is to us a decent oil filter with a non return valve.
  5. partsaver
    I have only ever used Halfords classic 20/50 or Comma 20/50 in all my Triumphs and it is also what I put into the Austin's I have been restoring. Another very important thing is to us a decent oil filter with a non return valve.
  6. partsaver
    Cheers.
  7. partsaver
    7263 wrote:Same as Jim, Jealous and like following both here, on message diary and facebook. Can you link the FB page please, I couldn't find it?
  8. partsaver
    timbancroft61 wrote:All cars visited Moordale Motors on the way to Dover and I know that Dale and his team torqued the crank nut up as well as using Loctite. Excellent stuff, good to hear they used a company with a good reputation who cares about the customers and cars.
  9. partsaver
    That_Man wrote:I'd just like to say good luck to all our American friends on their little jaunt around Europe. Especially team two driving Flipper. As a owner of a '67 Triumph 1300 for some 26 years now, i know they sometimes have a habit of misbehaving( Having just read Andy cook's blog ), dropping their crankshaft nut is just one of their party tricks, this MUST be loctite'd in place or she'll only drop it again  ;) But she will be a lot of fun around all those twisty passes. Enjoy ! Gordon I did explain that to Team T and also told them that they will have to get a decent socket on it after we managed to get it back on with just a pipe wrench, so hopefully it will stay in place fro the duration. strangely with all the 1300's I have owned I have never lost a  crank nut although I know plenty that have.
  10. partsaver
    and that says it all about Halfords.
  11. partsaver

    Starter Motor

    partsaver replied to triton's topic in Electrical

    What made you think it wasn't the right one?
  12. partsaver
    bodders1 wrote:I think the clue here is that andycon67 said it is an electronic indicator relay.  These do have an earth connection. Sorry badly written, I was referring the wires not being an earth.
  13. partsaver
    White should be the live from fuse box, a green/brown to indicator switch and green/purple to the lamps. There shouldn't be any earth! How do you know both relays are working and are you trying it with the engine running as low voltage will effect it.
  14. partsaver
    Firstly have you recently changed ay bulbs if not it Sounds like  a wiring fault at the rear light cluster or in the side light feed wire to the rear.
  15. partsaver
    7809 wrote:Hiya There is an advert in the latest TDC magazine for a supplier of stainless steel exhaust systems - Steve Waldenberg in Leeds, steve@cpsairedale.co.uk - the advert lists £245 for a 1300 FWD incl. VAT and delivery within the UK. Steve is the club mag editor and Ex-chairman of the TDC, I think you need to be a TDC member to order from him.
  16. partsaver
    There is a centre section in the Rimmers sale section.
  17. partsaver
    You can buy a stainless system from TDC and some exhaust suppliers, proper suppliers not fast fit centres, may be able to source one for you.
  18. partsaver
    Failing that I have one in Southampton.
  19. partsaver
    Yes please Chris 8)
  20. partsaver
    Also soda blasting will not remove most  rust.
  21. partsaver
    Another vote for etch primer. Weld through primer is a complete waste of money as it give less protection that normal primer, this I recently found out to my cost when getting a chassis blasted I paid the extra to have it primed in weld able primer  only for rust to appear within two weeks.
  22. partsaver
    Who remembers all the bad advice and myths that appeared with the banishing of leaded petrol? Would you really want to put OIL in your fuel tank?
  23. partsaver
    Greeks wrote:A strange one I heard from someone the other day. They had a dead battery on a one year old modern car. Turned out to be because they parked in their garage every night but didn't lock the doors. Apparently current may still be drawn (for some reason) if the doors are unlocked. Unlikely, but it could be worth testing the battery again with the doors locked? Modern cars have an auto shutdown where they stay live for a few minutes after taking the key out or moving away from the car(keylees models) but a 12 year old Pug won't have this electronic trickery
  24. partsaver
    Have you tested the alternator whilst under load, it could be that the alt is charging whilst on idle but when it warms it is failing to charge the battery which would cause  a flat battery after a few trips. also check the voltage rate from battery poss and the alternator body and the engine block, on the pugs there is an earth lead from the battery neg to a gearbox  mounting bolt, the terminal corrodes causing  bad earth connection.
  25. partsaver
    When you say the battery is going dead what are the symptoms and is it  diesel or petrol, why was the battery replaced (same symptoms as with old battery) and what battery is fitted?
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