Hughbert

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-GT6-NEW-CARPET-SET-/121240998795?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c3a86d38b Here is another supplier the tunnel looks shaped not just flat.

I would buy what I could afford and that way you have a set of carpets that suit your needs I would not spend above your budget just because of a moulded gearbox tunnel carpet I bought from the ebay guy and have been really happy with my buy. Each person has a different outlook on what is good for them but they never means its the same for you buy what makes you comfortable to spend. ;) ;) Do what feels right for you its your car you only have to please you  ;) Cheers Hugh Some more to view http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310827542045?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230911224767?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

8026 wrote:I need a new set of carpets for my 1967 mark 1 GT6 and looked into buying a set - almost fell off my chair when I saw how much they wanted.   I have now decided to make some myself using the old ones as templates and getting the edges whipped by a local carpet company.   The challenge will be the transmission tunnel carpet!!!   Has anyone done this before and does anyone happen to have a drawing of the correct dimensions for all the carpets? Cheers Ken http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330365114784?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Not that expensive above for the work involved anyway.

242 wrote: Got 2 of them in a box in the attic, had a heap of trouble with them donkeys years ago, but in retospect that was probably due to the dizzy spindle being worn. You can have them for the price of postage plus a couple of pints. RR Pm sent thanks Cheers mate Hugh :) :)

When I bought my Mk3 it had an old 70's/80's electronic system fitted an Piranha type one I think after the full restoration I did refitted the system and it worked so I thought well if its so well built and still works after all those years keep it which I did and its still on the car now. ;) Its a simple one with a sprocket type wheel fitted where the rotor arm goes I guess it works using the Hall Effect with an optical switch and a sensor to time the spark anyway it works very well so I am going to keep it and I might fit the same to my MK1 if I can find a NOS one.

I have to say ebay has been a good source for me and I am amazed with what I can get at a good price also if its only going to be one car you restore do not go mad spending too much cash on totally pro stuff I have used the suff below and it have served me really well. But as sheepy wrote do buy good stuff say mid range price not cheap stuff from China buy off a UK or a home country seller ie Holland if you live there. Get a top fed gun with a gauge like this one plus a filter gun holder too worth investing in http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROFESSIONAL-HVLP-AIR-PAINT-SPRAY-GUN-WITH-REGULATOR-1-4mm-2-0mm-NOZZLES-/231128613011?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item35d056c093 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BENCH-OR-WALL-MOUNTED-METAL-GRAVITY-SPRAYGUN-SPRAY-GUN-AND-FILTER-HOLDER-STAND-/261364346770?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3cda876f92 To apply primer which you might want to also buy this kit which also has a wax oil too dust spray off too http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warrior-Air-5-Piece-Spray-Clean-Kit-/181295172001?pt=UK_Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item2a3608c9a1 Top fed gun is a lot better for top coating pot spray great for laying down primer etc. Just take your time practice and enjoy the fruits of all your own work while saving way more than you have spent on the stuff above ;)

I cut the roof of my car to replace it with a non sunroof one I cut the roof at the base of the A/B posts and along the rear wing joint and around the rear panel to keep it. Welded the replacement roof which was cut off the same as my old one at the  a/b posts to my original body and along the rear wing joint and welded around the rear panel all the  joints were as where the factory panels would have been welded in ie where the rer wing meets the roof panel. I could not get original pictures being held to ransom at the moment  :-/ but found a few on he web and did a rough edit .

3141 wrote:My project will be Rotoflex and I'm going for the chassis mounted damper conversion. It is my understanding that the correct dampers for the conversion are the ones from a MK3 non-Rotoflex car. I'd be grateful if somebody would confirm this before I order please. Thank you John Yes John correct as the Rotoflex ones are too long for use with the chassis mounting conversion brackets ;) Cheers Hugh

Why not drill and tap the remaining part of the stud and put a length of threaded bar in with a piece of tube with a washer on each end if you want it to did its original function of supporting the manifold. The threaded bar will transmit heat again too.

2880 wrote:When it comes to fitting these brackets,  is it just the one bolt shown in the diagram at the top, or do you need to weld along each of the edges ? No welding need with this conversion as far as I know  :-/

4058 wrote:On a vehicle! The spring is the shock absorber! And the damper is the shock damper (most often and wrongly referred to as shock absorber)  :) So right there the damper is just that it dampens the action of the coil spring up front/rear but on our cars we have a transverse spring at the rear same theory though   ;) ;) :) As Nick wrote if you use the correct brackets and dampers plus you may need to jack the rear of the car up to allow the whole suspension to droop down to take the load of the rear set up  ;)

I trimmed my headlining, windscreen pillars, tops of doors plus dash top in ink black Alcantara and all the other interior including dash board in Ink black Napa leather which is a full-grain leather, typically dyed, made from unsplit kid, lamb or sheep-skin by tanning with salts of chromium or aluminium it is very soft and supple is 0.8 mm thick but very strong. :) It took me sometime to do it my self but it was very rewarding to do and yes its very dark inside the car but feels like a very nice place to be in. For me anyway ;) I will also trim my GT6 MK 1 in Napa leather too but not in ink black the headlining is in fantastic original condition so even though I am having the car repainted the head liner will be left in place and masked off no matter how long and difficult it might be.  :)

I use CAS20W50 - CASTROL XL20W/50 CLASSIC ENGINE OIL 1 GALLON but reading what others use I am worried its not up to scratch for my cars :-/

I use CAS20W50 - CASTROL XL20W/50 CLASSIC ENGINE OIL 1 GALLON but reading what others use I am worried its not up to scratch for my cars :-/

Nick_Moore wrote:My delight was partly fueled because I spent the weekend carefully fitting rings and pistons, taking the time to check that everything was free to move as it should, with no tight spots. The Bentley V8 video only made me take even more time to get it right. These days I guess all Triumph engines are essentially hand-built, but the factory obviously didn't take such care. One of my con-rods came from a different casting to its fellows and was about 30g heavier. That's just shoddy workmanship. If BL had produced engines with 'Built by Bob' plaques on them, either the workmanship would have improved out of sight, or the workers wouldn't have got much sleep! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

JohnD wrote: Not sure what other point of punctuation I could have used.  Maybe a full stop. I don't doubt that they are built by one man's hands.    My point and exclamation was that while that is available in a luxury supercar, it is also true of most (?) Triumphs.    Building - or in our case, rebuilding - an engine isn't quantum chromodynamics it's basic engineering.    Bentley take it to a very high degree - that is why they can sell their cars for so much - but the same 'hand-built' engine label is available to any Triumphero who wants to. John Okay :-/

thescrapman wrote: I bet the feeling of almost limitless torque and power is quite sublime. I wonder if Lancasters up the road will let me take a test drive... :-) Cheers Colin (p.s. my Mk1 PI was still on it's "never opened" engine until year before last (now sat in garage awaiting attention) and the green PI is also on its original engine as far as I can tell. Maybe not much longer if I keep abusing it.... :-) The other 6 cars have all had a bottom end rebuild ) Yeah I remember one day on the way back from down south on a motorway somewhere ;) in the outside lane overtaking some slow vehicles  ;) a monster sized USA pickup came charging up to within a couple of feet of the boot lid I could only see the huge front end of the truck in the rear view mirror a Dodge Ram or Ford 150 thingy. I was going a little over the expectable  ;) speed limit but the driver began to flash and drop back them charge again up to the rear end flashing his lights. Anyway we cleared all the traffic so I put my foot down a touch and let the huge torque kick in the pickup just became a dot and the look on the drivers face and the WTF mouthed words were clear to see as his big engined truck just got mashed was priceless just  fantastic 8) 8) I then pulled into the inside lane and resumed normal speed after a time he went by and I gave him a smile and a wave and he just nodded his head looking sheepish ;D ;D ;D

[quote=JohnD] Hand built Bentley engine? Not sure what your ? means but they are hand built by one person in cell build form they put their real name on the engine its not a PR stunt. Yes there are no robots just the real people you see in the videos take a look at the web site above the main build hall and many of the buildings are the original ones that built RR aero engines for Wellington bombers and the original Spitfires in fact you can still see the camouflage paint on the sides and roof of the main build hall put on during the II world war.

Nick_Jones wrote:Interesting vids Hugh! Was surprised to see 2 valves per cylinder and pushrods on the V8......   Awful lot of bits in the W12 though! Bottom end of my Vitesse engine is still Triumph-built - not for much longer though. PI engine was until last year. Nick Hi Nick The V8 engine has its origin in 1950 and is still a simple design for 2013  :) it produces 512PS (505bhp/377kW) while the massive torque (1020Nm/) (712lb ft) is now delivered at 1750rpm of torque from a 6.3/4 litre twin turbo engine it gets of the line as faster than either the  W12 or V8TFSi GT all that torque at such a low revs means both engined GT@s have to catch up.  ;D. There is nothing quite like it driving a Mulsane when you launch it off the line and it just keeps pulling your sitting in a first class luxury surroundings looking over that huge long bonnet in near silence except the V8 woof and the car is steaming along  ;D ;D ;D ;D MPG oh errr 10 mpg when steaming it :o :o. I guess working with them all the time me off a GT but a Mulsane is top on my list should I every be able to have the money to buy and run one oh and have a very big garage to park it in  ;)   Just take a look at the figures below Technical ENGINE Engine Capacity     6752cc Twin-turbocharged V8 Max. Power     505bhp / 377kW / 512PS @ 4200rpm Max.Torque     1020Nm, 752lb.ft @ 1750rpm Cam phasing and Variable Displacement Compression Ratio     7.8:1 Emission Level     EU 5 / LEV II Fuel     EU 95 to 98 RON     US/ROW 92 to 98 RON DRIVELINE AND TRANSMISSION Eight-speed automatic gearbox with electronic shift interface, sport mode and steering wheel mounted paddleshift. Rear wheel drive PERFORMANCE Max. Speed     184mph / 296km/h Acceleration     0 - 60mph     5.1 seconds Acceleration     0 - 100km/h     5.3 seconds FUEL CONSUMPTION EU DRIVE CYCLE (EU drive cycle fuel consumption figures are provisional and subject to Type Approval) Urban     11.2mpg     25.3 litres/100km Extra-Urban     24.0mpg     11.8 litres/100km Combined     16.8mpg     16.9 litres/100km CO2 emissions (combined)     393g/km EPA DRIVE CYCLE (US EPA fuel consumption figures are pending certification and not currently available) City Driving     11 Usmpg Highway Driving     18 Usmpg Combined Driving     13 Usmpg WEIGHTS AND VOLUMES Kerb weight (Markets outside North America)     2685kg / 5919lb Kerb weight (North America)     2711kg / 5976lb Gross Weight (All markets)     3200kg / 7055lb Front Axle Weight     1535kg Rear Axle Weight     1640kg Boot Volume     443L Fuel tank capacity     96L     21.12 Gallons / 25.36 US Gallons DIMENSIONS Overall Length     5575mm     18ft 3in Width across mirrors     2208mm     7ft 3in Width with mirrors folded     1926mm     6ft 4in Height     1521mm     5ft Wheel Base     3266mm Front Track     1615mm Rear Track     1652mm http://www.bentleymotors.com/models/mulsanne/performance/

All modern engines get a run test on the test bed before they are finished off here is Bentleys engine build it shows the test in progress a bout 4 seconds in as you can see all are hand built. :) Then once in the car it goes on a rolling road test room and run right through all gears to top speed and full revs. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOngOoNN4Xo http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aohcTDV5l2I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slQ9E1s1FuQ

Looking good Nick those pistons do look as though they are very well made and I guess it takes a real engineer to understand that 😉 as for the damage some small witness marks are always going to be there with polished surfaces Well done to the engine builder finding a set of rings that will do the job just right plus a fantastic photo of the ring gap.

Wow 16 weeks early I am glad she is okay though as to the GT6 I guess like a lot of dads and even more so new dads it will have to take a bit of a back seat short term. That will be difficult but if like me you were in awe of your baby daughter and your good wife for bringing her into the world its not a big sacrifice and you can always say your going to finish to be her car some day  ;) Better to take your and do good work on the car than rush it and have a unreliable car you may have to rework ;)

7952 wrote: I didn't know a thing about welding or bodywork and very little about mechanics when I bought my GT6. I'm right at 40, and picked up a decent welder about 3 years ago and am getting comfortable with it, and enjoying other non-gt6 projects now. If you don't mind learning new trades, no reason not to buy one in need of resto. (see my rebuild thread at http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/byakk0 if you wanna) I have followed your rebuild on the Triumph Experience website your doing really well keep it up ;)

Nick_Jones wrote:Hugh, Completely agree.  I've never had a TW problem myself in 25 years />>100k miles or even seen one in the flesh.  Have seen a good few battered looking washers though - mostly removed from one or other of the 1500 engines that lived in my Herald (they looked better than the other bearings though  :'() The copper faced ones I have are stamped "AE" on the back. Nick Hi Nick That;s good to know I seem to recall my set looked to be copper or copper alloy under the white metal coating. I have always understood that  the really good thing with Sintered Bronze bushes and non Sintered Bronze is that all are self lubricated so I wonder if that applies to PB washers too? Hugh

Like most things that are old classic car related stories get around embellished etc someone has a bad part which was more down to the crap quality control of the time than the actual engineering and before you know it its gospel. As most of us have a car that was never thought at the time by the designers or engineers who originally built them would still be running around in 2013 they did the best they could with what technology, materials and the budget available to them and they did a good job . Now today we have greater access to better materials and to a certain extent no budgets imposed on us the owner of our cherished car so we fit the best of modern parts/materials available to us. But we forget that what the chaps back then had was nothing like we have today. So many of us criticise parts that fail that were never designed to do the job they have done for so long. Then some part is made in a new material and the old part is crap so an other myth starts about poor quality parts designed and made in the days of BL.