Hughbert
-
Posts
124 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Hughbert
-
Cheers Andy It must be turbo charged I guess so with 300 bhp it must go like stink it has to be the fastest most bhp GT6 here in Britain ? :) :) Oh and its a very nice shade of blue too :)
-
So I found out this info it has a modified Volvo S40 engine delivering circa 300bhp.
-
rotoflex wrote:It's obviously a work still in progress. I think he should install the later license plate lamps that attach to the transom, and mount pinwheels in the rear bumper attachment holes. 8" or so diameter pinwheels would be low enough to have them kept turning by the exhaust pipe when idling at stoplights, & the pulsing effect from the tail lights would probably be an arresting safety aspect like the flicker things they put on motorcycle headlights. Not a work in progress it was a track car but now is a road car as it was driven to the Stafford TSSC show last weekend :-/ It has a Volvo T4 engine and gearbox with independent rear suspension and a Sierra Axle set up the engineering involved to do that is something amazing really. Whoever did the work sure knows how to do great engineering. :) I guess the purists would not agree though but as a lot of Triumphs have various mods done to them now days the engineering great as is the workmanship the paint looks glass smooth on it.
-
I seen these photos on facebook taken by Andy Cook T4 Turbo Engine/Gearbox and Sierra Axle set up fantastic 8) 8) Has anyone any more info on this car or better still is the owner a member of the CT club forum and can give me some more info on how it was all done and some more pictures too please. Oh and the shade of blue it is to ;) ;) ;) I like the car but these is not a thread about like or dislike or oh thats not original as its clear the owner never wanted it as a standard car but its such a well engineered job I just want to know more about it. This is the club that loves all Triumphs that can ;) ;) ;)
-
Are you building a Sammio by an chance :) I fitted rear discs from an Alfa on my GT6 and used Citroen Saxo rear callipers as advised by Marcus and I replaced my front discs with a set of cross drilled and vented ones that are a direct replacement. I also fitted a brake balancer to give bias to the front brakes oh and a Pressure Relief Valve on the brake cylinder. I found no need to put larger discs on the front as the rear discs are so much better than the old drum brakes there was no need to. :) :) :) I think its possible to buy old style replica drums that cover over your modern disc brakes like those fitted on C or D Types or old Bugatti replicas. Might be a lot easier than fitting larger discs ;)
-
4247 wrote: I didn't change the UJ - the previous (first!) owner did and then unfortunately didn't check the balance... ??) Ah right is there a balance weight currently fitted to the shaft?
-
If there is no vibration after you change the UJ then your okay ;) or did you already have vibration before changing the UJ. :-/ As for the balance weight falling off through rusting or what ever if this has happened to many people I wonder how many really even notice it :-/ I also wonder how many people have swapped over propshaft for some reason and never had the replacement one balanced :-/ Also how many cars have gone over speed humps or grounded there propshaft and never checked or had their shaft rebalanced afterwards or even if they notice it. :-/
-
the UK thats great it will be really easy to get you help on here but not until tomorrow now I would say The good thing is there are lots of people who will be able to sort you out on here I never thought any BMC cars got CD150 fitted to them here though just the USA that is why I thought you were in the USA. :-/
-
Hi there are you in the USA by any chance if so there are a couple of guys on here also from the USA who might be able to advise you or even help you out one is rotoflex the other is Goody thats their user names :)
-
When I changed my rear wheel bearings there was no shim on the right hand side hub the car had never had its bearings replaced before as the previous owner told me so. Now did the factory never put one in or was it not needed :-/ I never put one back in and never had any problems so far :o
-
Sam_C wrote: Thanks Richard hmmm.... bit stumped by this now! I don't have a lathe I'm afraid and my engineering skills almost certainly wouldn't be up to that level of accuracy. Is it really just the bearings that could have been damaged by this then? Or should I be more worried? Could it have resulted in something really serious? Many thanks Sam Not sure if these will do someone else will say so I am sure http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Military-101-half-shaft-shims-x5-593880-/360252520195?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e0b93703 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-MG-MONTEGO-MG-MAESTRO-ORIGINAL-FRONT-HUB-SPECIAL-SHIM-WASHER-KIT-BHM7331-/121140126629?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c3483a3a5 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-VW-AUDI-SET-OF-0-65-1-25-MANUAL-GEARBOX-SHIMS-02K-498-210-/281067818728?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4170f28ee8
-
Sam this thread by a chap who used to be in the CT club is the best for setting shims on rotoflex outer hubs I followed his advice and had no problems the whole thread is a great read in fact ;) ;) http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1229790537/s-150/
-
I got a set similar to these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-D1-Spec-1-5-Light-Weight-Wheel-Nuts-Blue-Toyota-Honda-Mitsubishi-Mazda-/370706410324?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item564fd2eb54 Hugh ;)
-
I went for uprated Ford Race/Rally studs on advice from my good buddy RoyBoy the suds have a course splines too I used loctite thread lock. I have 15 inch alloys with open end anodised alloy wheel nuts. :) No problems with them. :) Sorry no pictures now but very soon ;) Its really just a matter of choice, cost and availability. :)
-
6797 wrote:Are the Ford ones the right spline size/pitch? I went for Freelander because they had imperial splines, but metric threads - I would have expected the Ford ones to be metric both ends? You bought something like these I guess http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Freelander-Wheel-Stud-M12x1-5-63mm-long-/370630705642?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AFreelander&hash=item564b4fc1ea
-
There are these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-x-FORD-MONDEO-HIGH-TENSILE-WHEEL-STUDS-63mm-13-1mm-SPLINE-021c-/330908152469?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d0ba9b295 I went for these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-x-63mm-FORD-COMPETITION-WHEEL-STUD-BRISCA-F2-RACE-STOCK-CAR-021a-/230959842861?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35c647862d http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-x-FORD-FIESTA-HIGH-TENSILE-COMPETITION-WHEEL-STUDS-63mm-13-1mm-SPLINE-021d-/330908162970?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4d0ba9db9a
-
cliftyhanger wrote:the 3.89 will be good if you want it quick and revving, I have driven a webered up 2.5 gt6 convertible. However, the 2.5 will pull a 3.27 with little effort, but I kept breaking them (teeth were the issue on all of them) I fitted a 3.63, and that was a very good compromise. Stronger too. BUT I would leave the diff, see how you get on with it. Easy enough to change later. Thanks for the advice mate :)
-
2513 wrote: Hi Brendan Not noticed any odd bits missing, but number no 6 has always resulted in the spark plug more darker than the rest, so some oil is getting past I recon. Compression on no 5 & 6 is a little lower than the others by 20psi (the rest get about 140psi dry & cold) after the head rebuild. Gained a bit after regrinding the values, but a couple of the exhaust seats are quite pitted so a bit of saving to be done to get it all sorted properly! All back together now, and leak free for the moment :) Good to know its back together and running well looks like your no fool and your prays were listened to well done mate ;) ;) (clap) Cheers Hugh
-
piman wrote:Hello hughbert, I don't know about the relative temperatures of tuftriding and nitriding but do know that tufriding can distort the component being treated so remedial straightening is often required afterwards. Alec HI Alec I always find this site good for info http://www.durferrit.de/media/pdf/Tenifer_QPQ_eng.pdf Cheers :) Hugh
-
junkuser wrote:Not sure that the price is related to the coating, but rather being specifically manufactured with drain holes in them. Suspect the surface coating is related to holding lubricant during break-in. I too thought that the cost was down to the drain holes (dizzy)
-
3762 wrote:Who sells followers at a third of the price of the phosphated ones you have mentioned? I would be surprised if anyone sells a set of followers for under £20. Look and ye shall find ;)
-
piman wrote:Hello Colin, "Tuftriding or Nitriding is what you want, but can't remember which one is the better one." The former is used on cast iron and the latter on steel. Alec Nitriding is a low temperature heat treatment process that diffuses Nitrogen into the surface of a metal to create a hard surface layer. Additional important properties are also achieved including higher corrosion and abrasion resistance plus improved fatigue strength. As the process is carried out within a nitrogen rich atmosphere at relatively low temperatures without the need to quench, parts remain 'clean' and 'distortion free from low alloy steels to high quality grade stainless steels and Inconel alloys.
-
esxefi wrote:it doesn't really matter.the cam and followers should be considered as a unit so they should wear with equal rates. unless you are at the top end performance of your engine most of the time the holed followers aren't going to make much difference. en40 ones are exotic and as said can be nitrided(very tough)and may well outlast several cams,but you may end up paying out more in the long run. which cam are you intending to use?do you have specs' Its a Fast road Kent Cam KCP109
-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271229054701?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 I am on about this type of cam follower just these Phosphated Cam Followers and what makes them so much more than standard ones I am onterested as I am putting a non standard hot cam in my 2500 cc engine. Cheers
-
Is it worth paying 3 x the normal cost of standard cam followers to buy Phosphated Cam Followers are they that good :-/ I am keen to have any comments in favour or not in favour has anyone used them on their car what results good or bad.