MikeTeesside
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Everything posted by MikeTeesside
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I can't recommend the pens, the paint isn't that flexible and last time I did it all the paint just flaked off within a week. As for the pre-coloured ones, I think they look better on larger tyres. American classics with their big wide tyres suit them quite a lot.
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I run mine around the back of the head. Looks tidier and just makes logical sense. My GT6 is an early Mk1 so has the glass bowl fuel pump, which can be split in half and the top half turned 180 degrees before reassembling it, effectively reversing the pump. So my OUT line goes straight to the bulkhead from the pump and I only use a hard line for the bit connected to the bulkhead itself, otherwise the engine flexing/rocking would destroy the pipe. Soft fuel pipe used for the "flexible" bits.
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Here ya go.
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Success! Steering wheel no longer feels like it's about to fall off. It was two things; first was the outer brace, I'd missed a bolt on reassembly and it was loose and rattling around. Second; the C spring thingy in the upper clamp was missing so I packed some sticky foam pads in there for it to get a better grip on the outer column. I checked and mine isn't missing the H bracket thingy, it's a very early Mk1 GT6 so never had it to begin with.
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If no one else comes through I can get you one tomorrow. But my system has no diff clamp. Didn't even know there should be one.
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GT6_Don wrote:Oh, by the way; its never failed an MOT on this?? Nope! Just went through an MOT the other week with no advisories. Mind you.. the tester lets me sit in the car and do all the work in there. I know him quite well. Everything above board though. I only take it to him now because the previous MOT tester I visited gave it an advisory that the lights were wired the wrong way around on the column.. except they're not.. and he refused to believe they should go SIDE - MAIN - DIPPED because in his words "that makes no sense" even though the sticker on the side of the column shows that too.
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Ooo, those are seriously nice. The tiny seats in my Mk1 don't bother me much but apparently I'm destroying my passengers spines.
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796 wrote:there is a wee,rd looking device under the dash on my GT, like 2 long fingers that bolts to the rack, and also to some dash mounts. look to see if they are tite, OR, if they tite, then the mounts have no split an opened up. leaving the columm to float aboot. http://www.canleyclassics.com/images/diagrams/spitfire1500_plate_1h_04l.jpg M I have a horrible feeling that those are completely missing on mine. Would explain a lot. Will have to check asap.
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As an aside, my Mk1 has a thicker wooden motolita (I think) steering wheel and I have an original thinner wheel to go on after it's properly refurbished and recovered. But it doesn't seem to fit on the existing boss, I'm assuming the original steering wheels used a different boss? The current (motolita) one also seems to use a non-standard horn function.
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Only thing I can think of is that more pressure is now being transferred to the rear BECAUSE less pressure is being transferred to the front of the T-piece (the servo). The servo requires less pressure to operate than two unassisted calipers. But not sure how to fix it as I don't have a servo. Pressure bias valve?
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Hi guys. I've noticed my steering wheel (and the column as a whole) has quite a lot of lateral movement. Meaning I can wiggle it around quite a bit, especially at low speeds because of lack of power steering. It doesn't stop me driving the car but at the same time I'm sure it wasn't like this before I laid it up for the winter. Is there a "brace" for the column somewhere on the car that attaches to the main body? Something I've missed or has come loose? Because otherwise it just seems to be vaguely floating in space.
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I use Koni on mine. It's made "hard and crashy" into "slightly less hard and crashy". I still wouldn't venture near cobblestones. :P
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My MK1 GT6 tries to climb up its own arches. It's a "feature". ;D
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Mine piddles its fluids from the overdrive filter plate and the flange, which no matter what I do won't stop leaking. Also an early Mk1 engine so the pushrod tubes weep and leak all over the place too. I leave lovely puddles wherever I go. Thankfully (no, really) one of the piston rings is going so I'm going to pull the whole lot and treat it to a rebuild from the ground up. From what I can see from previous documentation the engine/gb/od has never been rebuilt in its entire life. If that doesn't sort it, I may actually cry.
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If there were 6 pads originally and 6 dimples, I think it's a safe bet to say you need 6. But in saying that... I recently refurbished the leaf spring on my Mk1 GT6 which had six dimples. I bought the teflon pads in a pack which came as a set of 4 pads, so I had to put two rubber pads back in (I chose the two in the best condition). The teflon pads are also a LOT thicker than the rubber ones, I struggled to get the spring back together with just four in and it made the spring a lot.. er.. "springier" which caused the car to ride a little higher. Settled back down after a few weeks though.
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I have the brackets and pins myself after realising a vibration/rattle at speed was my bonnet catch flopping about like a dying fish. They work a treat.
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ferny wrote:https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht227-hydraulic-puller-set?da=1&TC=SRC-hydraulic%20bearing These will normally shift stubborn ones. I have one of these and they're absolutely brilliant, well worth the money. Also used it when I did these on my own diff, worked a treat. ;)
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I dislike the arrangement on the Mk1 too and have been trying to think of ways to update it. I get a lot of vibration and rumble at high (legal!) speeds depending how bad the road surface is, I've had my prop and driveshafts looked at and all the UJ's are fine and everything is in balance. I overhauled the rear bearing carriers and the problem remains, so I just drive a bit slower now and live with a seat that massages my back nicely like one of those lounge chairs that were all the rage in the 90's.
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I had the exact opposite of a lot of these "horror stories" when my MOT tester entered the commission plate number as the VIN number. The DVLA sent me a polite letter asking for photos of the car, number plates and commission plate. I did them, printed them out and sent them in with a polite covering letter. Got a nice letter back no more than a week afterwards saying thank you and our records have been corrected. No fuss.
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Here's a list from every ones favourite price gouger: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008054 The GAZ are the cheapest, followed by the SPAX and then the Koni. I use Koni all round on my Mk1 and the ride is much improved on bumpy or poorly maintained roads. To be honest Koni isn't that much more expensive and you do get what you pay for.
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Guess this is one of those cases of "take it all apart and give it a bloody good clean!" then. :P
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I've heard some people with vibration issues, even after balancing, have corrected it by putting the splined part towards the gearbox side. But except for that the "correct" way is the splined part to the diff side.
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Using Accuspark here (along with their coil and plugs) and it's never ran better. Thumbs up. 8)
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Hi folks. I finally figured out why I was having so much trouble getting a decent tune on the GT6, the bloody choke cam kept sticking open at various levels! Disconnected it and pushed it fully closed and now getting a perfect tune, but obviously starting in cold/damp condition is now a nightmare. I can open the choke, but it's very sticky and refuses to return closed. I've rebuilt these carbs before but didn't touch the choke cams. Does anyone have a diagram of how they fit together and/or operate? Or would it be a better option installing the later carbs with the better chokes? I keep saying how I want to keep the car original.. but it has so many non-standard parts on it now I shouldn't bother saying that anymore. :P