Jump to content

herald hood frame and carb


doctee

Recommended Posts

Hi all,
        I wondered if anyone knew if anyone was still making the hood frames for the Herald's.
I bought a new front rail but I feel the rest of the frame is a bit goosed as it keeps catching the rear left upper body ( I have tried adjusting it but it looks like the hinges where the door seals fit are worn) and as the hood needs replacing I thought I would try for a new frame as well.
The other question is about the carb, its a Stromeberg recon from Canley's and has always dripped petrol from the adjuster on the bottom of the carb (the one for adjusting the mixture), is this normal.
many thanks
Trev

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you drop the float bowl to replace the "O" ring on the jet holder rather than removing the jet holder the carburetor does not require re-setting.

This is the more likely "O" ring to be leaking than the one on the jet but the jet one can leak.

If replacing the one on the jet make a note of the angle of the slot on the bottom and note  the number of turns required to screw the jet fully up before removing the jet so you know where to set the jet on reassembly.

If the jet holder is removed the jet has to be re-centered, which seems quite simple if you follow the book but on old carburetors it can be a pain.

The aluminium washer on which the jet holder seats can be distorted from previous tightening so that on final tightening of a centered jet the jet can be pushed off centre.

Good practice to replace this washer to save time and frustration.

Also check the condition of the surface on which the "O" ring seals in the float bowl.

Recently I found one with a scratch in this surface so went to use another bowl from my "junk".     The two spare bowls I had also had scratches in a similar position.    Hard to see but could be felt with a finger nail.     600 wet and dry and patience overcame the problem.

Don't know the history of any of these bowls but somewhat puzzled as to why they all had the scratches within a mm or two of the came position.

Use the correct size "O" rings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...