Timing chain

[Maggie13]

I'll try and add a few photos. My timing chain is exactly 10mm play from straight edge which seems to be the maximum, so I take it its best to renew it. 

The camshaft pulley teeth look OK (I think) but the tensioner has grooves so I'm guessing the tensioner needs changed too.

The bottom crankshaft pulley the teeth look a bit damaged. Can anybody tell me if this needs changed as well?

Also what brand do I go for. I've read on here some brands are rubbish and best leaving the old stuff on?

[glang]

It all looks pretty worn to me and I would guess the small sprocket might already have been replaced because I cant see an alignment mark on it like the cam one. As with all chain and sprockets theres not much point changing just one item as they all wear together and a new component will wear rapidly to suit the others.

Are the sprockets aligned with each other vertically as the wear on the small one looks to be on the front edge of its teeth. This can checked with a straight edge and shims changed on the crank to get it correct.

Saying all this I think the set up would do thousands more miles yet and as you say quality of replacement items, especially chains, can be suspect so you could just change the tensioner and leave everything until next time. Mines in pretty much the same condition (Vitesse and original with about 80000 miles on it) but I drive quite sedately and unfortunately dont do enough miles for it to be an urgent issue... 

[JumpingFrog]

Woodruff key looks to be broken in half too, if that wasn't a result of removing the front pulley, and it was running like that, check the key way inside the pulley is still straight.

For the chain wheels, you have only once choice unless you can find NOS. It depends what you want to use the car for, I think replace the lot if you're doing serious miles, it not a fun job to do again later. From new the teeth end in a point, so the flatter the tips, the more wear there is. When they get really worn, they also start to have a hooked appearance too. I've seen better crank chain wheels and personally would replace it.

Regarding the chain, there are lots of complaints about suppliers selling cheap, badly finished chains. If you want better, get in touch with "The Chain Man", he specialises in motorcycle chains, but he will supply a decent chain if you tell him the size (I forget) and the number of links (62). https://the-chain-man.co.uk/

For the tensioner, there are also complaints about quality, if you're doing limited miles, it probably isn't important. But Tony Lindsey-Dean recently did a batch of hard-chromed tensioners and was offering them for sale on Facebook. I can find the post if it helps. I've bought one, but I haven't tried it yet so can't vouch for the quality.

Edited August 19, 2022 by JumpingFrog

[Maggie13]

I forgot to check if the sprockets were aligned but as the engine was unknown to me and not running and too much crank float I've pulled it apart and am sending it to be checked. I've definitely one bad big end bearing and a score on the crank. I'll probably get him to set the end float which I'm guessing moves the crank pulley alignment. I think their is about 80,000 on mine too. I dont want to waste money as its only for an odd classic run but still want it sort of right. 

[Maggie13]

I dont know if I broke the woodruff key but I have the other half of it. Will it still do its job in 2 pieces and can you even get them? I never thought of checking inside the pulley. I've never heard of removing the crank bolt breaking it. 

I won't be doing many miles but hoped not to be this far down for a long time.

[glang]

Yes key still available but as your pulley and front seal piece are all in one (unlike my Vitesse) you could get away with it as it is. I wonder if its pretty well stuck in there and was broken previously trying to remove it...

I'll open mine up again in 20000 miles or so which could be 10 years down the line!