Guess work assistance required for ticky ticky noise

[ferny]

So, back in June I was driving down the A5 in the Herald when there was a big bang and the car decided to go dancing down the dual carriage way. It was probably quite a nice view for the car I'd just gone past... I'll attach a photo of the carnage but in word form the o/s UJ went kaboomy and the only things keeping the wheel on the car were the leaf spring bush and radius arm bolts. 

As the UJ joke was now slightly mangled (and the chassis torn from being beaten by a half haft shaped mace) I replaced the entire shaft and both UJ's - so both n/s and o/s. I used white box ones off eBay, but not cheap ones and they were listed as Heavy Duty Land Rover Freelander. I drove the car maybe 25 miles before it started to make a clicking noise and on investigation found a UJ cap on the o/s had departed, meaning the UJ was flapping about. So, I replaced that (again) with a brand new Hardy Spicer one I had floating around. 

Took the car to work and after about 50 meters... click click click. Can I find the cause for the click? Can I banana! I've had it up in the air, I've rotated wheels forwards, backwards and sideways. I've even rested the half shafts on rollers so the car is "resting" on its wheels. The diff seems fine and if it wasn't I assume it'd be in pieces now anyway.

My only thought right now is that the Freelander UJ on the n/s is knackered. If they're rubbish quality it would explain why the cap on the o/s UJ went walkies for no apparent reason. Honestly a weird one that! I'm going to replace it and see what happens. 

Please help save my sanity? I've not driven the car really since June because of this!

 

[Nick Jones]

Clicky clicky from the UJs is usually because one of the yokes is slightly splayed making the distance between the cups a bit too big, allowing the UJ spider to shuttle back and forth tapping against the ends of the cups as the shaft rotates. Usually twice a revolution (one axis affected), but could be 4 if both axes are doing it.

This end float can be eliminated by using thicker circlips (if you can find them) or putting shims under them (can be cut from drinks cans).

Hardest part is usually identifying which UJ axis is the culprit as the excess movement is usually quite subtle. 
 

Nick

[Pete Arnold]

I presume that you are aware of the advice available on Canley Classics website.  Well worth a read if you haven't done so already.  

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?archive=rear-end-noises