Rust removing on bare panels

[Stevejames]

Hi folks, a bit of advice needed please. Just acquired this 73 spitfire and as you can see the back of the car was stripped of paint some years ago and now has surface rust. Can anyone recommend a good rust remover plus etch paint and high build undercoat? I have spraying equipment. Thanks, Steve 

[yorkshire_spam]

I tend to use "mechanical" methods for rust removal, then paint with a treatment, then primer etc.

For heavy rust:

For lighter rust/cleaning and gasket residue:

[standardthread]

As  the last post, mechanical removal first, then I use Bilthamber 'Hydrate 80' which converts any rust left, and the whole panel, to 'black iron' to stop further rusting. Followed by usual primers etc.

I've treated spots of rust and bare metal with this solution and left them unpainted for weeks without further rusting. Unlike some rust removers Hydrate 80 doesn't need washing off before further painting.

Like anything, preparation is key.

Edited October 29, 2022 by standardthread

[Hogie]

Hi Steve,

for surface rust I use a simple sanding disc (60 grit) to get the lighter stuff off - usually OK for most surface rust.

For slightly deeper I like the fibrous wheel (Drongo wheel) in the second pic above. This gets the more deeper seated/harder rust off.

If you want to go deeper I use Bilthambers DeOxC. For a vertical panel you would need to keep swabbing it with wire wool.

I haven't found a gel that works yet.

The converters should work.

After the mechanical work wash with one of the converts to stop what you can't see.

 

Roger

 

[Stevejames]

Thanks everyone for your helpful replays. Cheers, Steve

[Stevejames]

Replays??!! Replies! Predictive text!

[JohnD]

Steve,

For a large area, after mechanical removal, you need to 'kill' the rust, else even after an etch primer it will bubble through.      Proprietary rust 'converters' are expensive, and they are all based on Phosphoric acid, which turns iron oxide into insoluble iron phosphate, a good base layer for painting.  It's available cheaply as "Milkstone Remover" for cleaning milking machines, if you're in a country area. Lots of old posts, and see http://www.sciencemadness.org/smwiki/index.php/Phosphoric_acid#Projects

John

Edited November 10, 2022 by JohnD

[Boxofbits]

On 30/10/2022 at 09:37, Hogie said:

Hi Steve,

for surface rust I use a simple sanding disc (60 grit) to get the lighter stuff off - usually OK for most surface rust.

For slightly deeper I like the fibrous wheel (Drongo wheel) in the second pic above. This gets the more deeper seated/harder rust off.

If you want to go deeper I use Bilthambers DeOxC. For a vertical panel you would need to keep swabbing it with wire wool.

I haven't found a gel that works yet.

The converters should work.

After the mechanical work wash with one of the converts to stop what you can't see.

 

Roger

 

Hi Roger

I have used Hammerite Rust Remover, which actually seems to work. It’s quite slimy AND it’s green! I’ve used it on two restorations so far.
 

It’s non-toxic and mainly contains Citric Acid. I just brush it on thickly, leave it overnight, then re-wet it with water, wire brush it with a rotary power device and clean off. obviously, for deeper rust it’s going to need more applications.

Kevin

 

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Edited April 4, 2023 by Boxofbits

[Velocita Rosso]

On 29/10/2022 at 11:05, yorkshire_spam said:

I tend to use "mechanical" methods for rust removal, then paint with a treatment, then primer etc.

For heavy rust:

For lighter rust/cleaning and gasket residue:

Yes I used these wheels to remove a whole Spitfire body of paint

https://www.toolstation.com/abracs-poly-abrasive-disc/p22693