Clive

I have just got Vicky. a 1964 Vitesse CV, home. The car has never had seat belts fitted, and is one of the first things I need to do. There are no cutouts in the rear trim panels, no hles in the prop tunnel that I can find. Hopwever, the top of teh B posts have 2 tapped metal "bars" fitted with blanking setscrews. These look as if they were the factory fitting points? Anybody know? If so, was there a triangle plate of something that bolted to these and then the seatbelt mounted to the extra plate? There is a hole in the trim backing that suggests this may be the case.

A bit of work on tbe sprint engine build today. The inlet was grubby, so currently simmering away with a few dishwasher tablets. (And the pot is my garage all purpose pot!)

It has been done. Certainly at least one, by https://easysteer.co.uk/

Correct in some parts. The ECU is fully programmable, but I have turned the wideband control off so if the sensor is toast it can't affect the mapping. I am getting reading of AFR 21, which is incredibly weak, but the car feels ok. So as I am feeling a bit perkier, I plan to change the sensor tomorrow. After I have been to the dentist (just a checkup, but medical appointments get more worrying as the years go by) I

Wim, do you have a supplier of the dished washers?

Did the CC trackday last week, what an excellent day out with fabulous company. However, the spitfire has been playing funny games. Notably my air/fuel readings have been very erratic, mainly at idle. I did have a fiddle before the trackday, no improvement. At the trackday, I used a previous map that was known to be good. (It took me around the 10CR) and that made no difference. It struck me that as teh gauge was reading rich-weak-rich-weak and there was no real problem with the actual mapping it must be something else. The sensor is always a suspect, but I could feel the engine changing, so something was happening, but not as much as teh gauge would suggest. Real headscratcher. I had an unextected brainwave. What if the fuel pressure was fluctuating? To that end I decided to knock up a pressure gauge, However, being an idiot, I had had a message from Roger, who suggested fuel pressure was a possibility, and a poor hose, fuel filter or relief valve could be the problem, not to mention teh pump itself. And I got sidelined, so changed the filter first. That seemed to have helped, and when I fitted the pressure gauge, it is rock steady. But was the filter the issue????? I really ought to refit the old one.... Still need to do a test drive, so far just idling cold on teh driveway. But having evaded death from manflu, I am still feeling knackered. After lunch I may be revitalised.

He is in Europe, so I would guess notthis country I made a pair. I happened to have a bit of ali the correct thickness. I marked the shape, and then used a holesaw. The shape was cut uing an angle grinder, finished with a flapwheel and file. Holes drilled and counterbored. Not as pretty but didn't cost me anything and took a couple of hours on a wet sunday afternoon.

That is an understatement! It flies, I think the driver has a fair bit to do with that.

I think the original wide rads had less cores than the later narrow ones? If getting a wide rad recored, probably best to get the deeper core fitted to give the best margin (although a mk3 won't stress the cooling system like a 1500 does) I think a 13psi cap is the correct one to use. But with a new or recored rad, and the engine/heater flushed through first, cooling should be fine. More than fine.

I am sure we will all have a chat about all sorts. As to weather, it looked good last weekend went rapidly downhill but latest is looking a little more hopeful. Fingers still crossed, but yes, brolly, rainjacket, and a tarp to keep my tat dry are all about to be packed. I just need to go and find my helmet now.

I cannot advise on size or dish/flat. However, please buy a quality wheel. There are a lot of substandard wheels available. The original Formula type are lovely if you can find one. Otherwise Mota Lita are a decent maker, others too. None are cheap.

The trouble is knowing what you want. As the used or new springs seem to all be different. And how do you measure the rate of a leaf spring? (I can do coils, though have nearly broken my neck more than once by falling off!)

I tried a new roto spring at one point, but the border raiders weekend killed it (refunded). (happy to disclose supplier by PM only) An OE spec rotoflex spring may be best. But the mk3 spit used a std mk3 spring. Nick jones has used a swingspring on his sons Roto spit. I have had a "hybrid" spring made from at least 2, but has the same number of leaves and about the same arch as the MK3 spring. A nightmare? Yes. Thankfully the weather looks hopeful for Thursday. Fingers crossed on that.

I currently have the rear spring and radius arms off my car. I had new bushes in a cupboard. However, it turns out they are for non-roto arms, so too small. I popped to Wins and picked up 4 superflex bushes yesterday, and today to Namricks to buy some hefty wahers and bolts that have a shank long enough that the threads won't wear the brackets again. Ho hum. Changing the rear spring to the one liberated from the MK3 spit, it is barely used. Hoping that lot will cure my clonk.

May I compliment you on your choice of trolly jack? Lovely things those Webers

Looks like we are all in the same group. We can let you show us the lines as we try to keep up.

Cafe does a decent breakfast too. Lunch not too shabby either. Cakes are good. But I do tend breakfast at whatever B+B I happen to wake up in.

This one?

I have the sense to have not bought one! I wonder if there are some that fit as supplied? But all the ones fitted by locals to me have been a problem. And yes, they should fit. But like so much stuff there gets a point where the only way to progress is to fettle it. Some other stuff that doesn't fit correctly include the new late spit bootlids (wrong curve and double skinned) spitfire sills are a bit out, and don't get me started on rubber bushes. It really is a minefield out there. The suppliers probably shrug their shoulders in private and mutter that they can only sell what is being made, and I understand different btaches can be quite different in quality.

No, just that they know they are not great, and if you want to fit one be prepared to tweak it.

Poorly fitting manifolds have been a problem forever. A local chap sent 4 back, that was nearly 30 years ago. Finally got one that fitted the head OK, but still had to cut/reweld the collector so it pointed in the right direction. So it seems the only way to get one that does fit is to do some tweaks yourself. I know it shouldn't be like that, but it is. I do wonder if the ones that are sent back just go to the next buyer.

We have entered. Dont forget to read the regs, know your CT and MsUK clubmans licence (free, and there is a link to apply when you register), Triumphs are Class F and most of us will be beginner or novice class. See you there.

Door runner was best descrobed as "well past its best". New ones are eye wateringly expensive. However, a rummage in the garage came up with one. Looked in fantasic condition. But would it be the right side? I reckon a 10:1 chance, and I got lucky. So that was fitted with a few choice words, and the glass dropped into a bed of FixAll (my favorite sealant). Once it had 24 hrs to cure, a good dose of Dynax S50 was applied to hopefully prevent this one rusting. Recent Spit mot passed with the usual advisory on front wheel bearings (they are correct) but the bloke is very fair. I did ask him to carefully check the radius arms as the car felt like it had a slight twitch with power on/off, but he said nothing untoward. I have ordered a new set of poly bushes as a precaution, and I am going to swap the rear spring in an attempt to fix a "clonk" from the rear NS. I have previously swapped shocks with no change, and also had the radius arms off and checked. Nothing seemed wrong, so I am running out of ideas.

The HCR is happening.... East Sussex are off for a drive over towards Battle and an excellent lunch.

On such a low annual mileage, I would be happy to change the oil annually, but the filter every 2 years. Making sure the oil was drained from the filter (just not running the car for a few days should do that)