Clive

It will all happen here, on this website, as all CT events do. We are planning to open late November, but I understand the team are waiting for a few things to be "firmed up"

Not that I can remember. I do find it odd that you try to pick up on issues that people mention. And as to rest, all participants know not to drive tired, and all are adult enough to, dare I say it, be sensible. But badly adjusted headlight?? I reckon it is because our cars are small compared to most on the road, and lower. And yes, they tend to have a load of stuff in the boot meaning the headlights are probably higher than ideal. But other road users are unlikely to be distracted, just those in their 50+ year old sportscars. In all honesty, apart from the big main roads and motorways, you don't see too many cars at night apart from fellow participants.

Definitely not. The event is not a race or competitive in any way. To scrutineer a car would imply otherwise. Club officials are not qualified to check cars (OK some may be) but the club would not take any resonsibility for checking the cars. That is done by the owners and hopefully the MoT man. Plenty of new cars have horrendously bright headlights, it is not just a trait of some RBRR-ers.

So I should hang on to my 0.75 cylinder. Been in a cupboard since I took it off my Vitesse, it did 10 years on that.

Something is niggling away in my brain about master cylinder brackets and angles, and maybe being different between some models. (the brake one always has a reinforcing bar AFAIK) Of course, you could get your original cylinder resleeved in stainless, but not a cheap option.

I recently fitted some to my 1964 vitesse. It had never previously had seatbelts fitted. The fixings are there, just hidden. The top of B post ones are 2 tapped holes behind the top front corner of the rear/side 1/4 trim panels. The centre one is a pair of 5/16 tapped holes on top of the prophaft tunnel about halfway between the back of the handbrake and the rear seat. Bottom of the B post I couldn't find anything, so drilled and bolted. I used Securon belts in silver/grey which seems more "period" than black. I used these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252826767132 I used a piece of 3mm steel bar to make brackets for the top of the b post. And the same for the top of the prop tunnel, but welded an upright section of the seattbelts to bolt to. I can take some pics on Sunday when the car is returned by my daughter after it was borrowed when hers went wrong a month ago...

John, does the return from the engine bay not feed into the swirl pot? That is the "usual" way to do things so the lift pump only needs to keep up with the fuel used, as opposed to how much the injection pump wants. Downside is that the fuel can warm up, but with an "open" return from the swirl pot to the tank it shouldn't be too much. I really like the VW fuel pump I have used in my Spit tank. It has a built in swirl pot, and despite no extra baffles, and the pump being over on the RH side of the tank, it will run the tank almost dry. However, I doubt that pump is high enough a pressure for PI. My injection has the PRV set to 3.5bar. (std ford PRV)

My gut feeling is that you need to revisit the timing. It is essential to set it by ear rather than a timing mark. Drive the car, light throttle up a sslight incline. Adjust the advance until it just pinks, turn it back a smidge. That will be the best setting. Also check that the vacuum advance and teh mechanical advance work. That does require a timing light... Try http://baileyperformance.co.uk/ , I know he has done a GT6 or 2, and is a decent chap. He spent a day on my injected spitfire, sorted many things the previous tuner hadn't bothered with.

Well worth checking both the downpipe and manifold mating faces are perfectly flat. I have several T shirts associated with those downpipe gaskets (eventually fixed by tapping to M10 so I could use cap head bolts that don't break/strip) However, I bought some extra long brass nuts from an ebay supplier for my dolomite, worth a thought.

Worth noting that some cars with the Bosch 0044 pumps fitted as OE had a 12mm feed from tank to pump. And below the tank. That ties with Nicks excellent response above. If there is a more suitable pump, it may well be worth seeking out.

Inner was a CV from a 1500 spit propshaft. I think.... So all trumph parts

I have sent you a message

Yes, the factory added the lever arm brackets to a normal chassis. They were the CDD driveshafts, they are available for non-roto cars, and usefully the needle rollers do not run on the shaft. Not sure why they failed. But speaking with another owner who has them on his vitesse, he sent all his stuff to CDD to get them to assemble them. And there my knowledge expires!

With a CV conversion, you can use the std herald/spit shocks.

That is NOT a cv type shaft, but a solid swing spring setup. I spoke with the owner earlier today. And a few months ago we were on the autobahn at near 130mph...

The herald and vitesse discs are barely any different in diameter. The vitesse calipers are bigger, and not a straight swap. The 13/60 brakes are very good as long as they are in good condition, and quality pads are used.

Nicks conversion was never really sold as a kit. He used to get a few bits made, but the owner needed to find the Volvo lobro joints, the Rover100 shafts (there are a few lengths, but only one is suitable) and the outer rover100/MGF CV and hub. Nick had the inner adaptors made, and got the uprights machined. Nothing particularly secret, and others have done the machining too. Not sure which setups have a weakness. The canley classics conversion seems pretty bombproof, but no longer made. The CDD setup again looks to be strong. Which variety broke?

"Best" is a bit subjective, but here are is my 2p worth: Genuine metalastic couplings are now eye-wateringly expensive. So a CV conversion is a great idea. I have the Nick Jones conversion, which required the uprights to be machined. However, the parts supply for that conversion is tricky, and most use one of the conversions from the "usual suspects" Shocks are tricky. With CVs you can use the std herald/spit length shocks as the rotoflexes are no longer in the way. However, they are a bit angled on te mounts. To teh extend I keep wondering if I could improve that situation. But after only 8 years and over 30k hard miles, I am still thinking. I use Koni shocks, probably the best.

You have a pm. Fret not, it will be corrected.

I would be inclined to rebuild the original if it is playing up. Or leave alone apart from cleaning the gauze filter if it was working fine. New pumps have a poor reputation for putting out too high a pressure. Fixable by using a small spacer or something. Also worth checking that the new pump is OK without a spacer as I would not be surprised if they only sell one type of pump? (later cars use a spacer about 8mm thick)

Only for dipped. There should be a "traingle" on the lens on one side, that needs to be covered. (I use gaffer tape)

They are totally interchangeable. Though in original format, the wider rads had a thinner core than the later, narrow rads. Modern replacements seem to have the extra core.

Never had an issue in france, or anywhere else in europe. And I have stayed in a few iffy hotels! As to damage, same risk as the UK but a trustworthy co-driver is handy for overtaking. Just make sure you have the proper insurances, and check your breakdown cover. And useful to carry some spares that you have tested on the car. (ie don't carry a spare electronic ignition/distributor cap/rotor arm that you have never tried. In fact, pop the new one on teh car and carry the known good one as a spare) Just don't be tempted by e85 fuel!

Indeed, but could be a poor positive connection too. Check the solenoid itself by jumping that with a big screwdriver/spanner or whatever. But earths are the most commosn issue. I run an earth from the battery to one of the gearbox/block bolts. Using a jump lead can confirm one way or another

You are not tax exempt. It still needs to be taxed, but the cost is zero. Subtle difference. If your car is over 40 years old, you can tick a box (I think) saying it complies with the MoT exemption rules etc and doesn't have to have an MoT certificate. Bear in mind it still needs to be capable of passing an MoT