Clive

I wish mine had...

Hmm, I haven't looked at ferries or if we have a group deal. I know hotels have gone up in general, as has eating out. £18 for a pub roast today.

But your pension has increased as much as 10CR costs. Unlike wages...

in april you get another increase, that makes it 18.6% in 2 years. Rather better than my increase in income.

How long ago? I am interested as we have a TomTom, and a button to report speed cameras if they are not flagged up. Think ours is 6 years old, but has all the functionality Howard talks of. (and has proved worthwhile as it has been in many countries with us, always accurate with mapping even in some odd places)

I think I would be miffed if somebody borrowed an alternator (or similar) and didn't return or replace it. Consumables etc, no I don't expect anything, it is a give and take sort of thing. I have had assistance, and given assistance on events. Nothing more than a few quids worth, to me helping is enough.

Those are insurance valuations, not selling prices. I always reckon they are about 30% higher than what a car would achieve if sold. For reference, a friend nearly sold his mk2 CV for around 8k, but backed out of selling it. The buyer was understanding, but was a dealer, who would have marketed it for probably 11K? Nice very tidy vitesse with a few mods (seats, wheels, CVs etc, nothing drastic) and I would happily drive it anywhere.

Have you seen the ones on car and classic? couple of nice looking ones on there at the moment.

Worst case is to buy another engine. A decent one will be around £500, and may well be good to use. Or a short engine for rebuild maybe £200ish. So nothing too desperate. If you just get the machining work done, but build/fit the engine yourself, allow £1k. That is my gut feeling.

I have managed to swap shims with people when I needed them. They are common to stags and dolomites, so people often have a jar full of them. But it is worth checking the shims you ground have changed thickness in use, the issue may be elsewhere (but my brain is struggling to work out where)

I don't think there are any? Cheapest is to buy in advance at £12, £15 on the door.

This link should give you some ideas for finding one, possibly within NZ https://britishclassicspareparts.com/product/clutch-driven-plate-7-14-1098cc-mg-midget-austin-healey-sprite-morris-minor-austin-a40-farina-mk2/

Entries for non-members open up at the weekend, and currently there are 6 entries. So there will be space. As to insurance, not my area of expertise.

Steve, there is a bunch of the "usual suspects" with a group of stands in Hall 1, selling assorted tat quality preloved spares. Pop by for a cuppa and you may even find a biscuit or 2.

With many many friendly users

So something is getting smaller. Cam lobes, that would be obvious. Shims compressing, cam buckets wearing or valve stem tip. When you say regrind, I assume you are taking oversize shims and reducing their thickness to suit? I am certain those shims are hardened, not sure how they would respond to being refaced.

Yes, thanks to a rather good website builder and support, we have a site that does all we need, is fast and works. We don't need to fundamentally change anything. There are, and always will be, ongoing tweeks, but that is the nature of the interweb and indeed the way the world works.

I "think" that plate is from a morris minor/sprite or similar, which may help in the search. Canley Classics should be helpful (and very knowledgable, unlike the bros)

Yes, but we can only update stuff we are told about. And to a certain extent group organisers can manage their own Group pages. But in the main, listing updates go via Admin. We need to be inclusive, but ideally all events/drives out etc etc should be on the website, and then post on whatever mode of social media you prefer with a link. That way the info is kept safe, won't disappear and can be easily found.

Which way round are the clearances changing? getting tighter or looser?

https://www.clubtriumph.co.uk/ewr/intro/ Opened at 7pm today

Cold oil is thicker, hence the higher oil pressure. Once hot, you get a better idea of what is happening. So the 15psi is a touch below ideal, but not anything to get worried about. What is important is that the oil pressure is pretty good when the car is being driven, the expected range is 40-60psi when being driven, so absolutely fine. Yes, the 1500 gives oil a hard life. Especially if driven at higher revs. So if you do this, best to invest in a higher quality oil. But if just running about, the std classic 20/50 stuff is fine.

Not keen on Waxoil. Dynax S50 is very thin and creeps into seams, so ideal. I recently welded some repairs on my dolly doorskin, and used S50, and then some Dynax UB over the welded areas. I have also used Dinitrol products which are very similar. The Vitesse I inherited has a coating of grease applied in all sorts of areas, which a=has generally worked well, but I am not looking forward to some of the small repairs that are needed (meaning I will need to clean the grease off)

More that oil will drip from the block once he sump is off. Hence drain, then leave so it all drips off into the sump