Clive

From canleys https://canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-vitesse&diagram=triumph-vitesse-mkii-2-litre-oil-filter

Now sold🙂

Tim, I have been looking at the invision/forum "help" area. It seems there is something embedded that automatically puts the photo the "correct" way up. I guess soem code in teh picture when you took it. I wonder if saving the picture as a jpeg or something once it is the right way up (not before) may solve the issue. I must say it seems to be only iphones that have this problem, I expect something in the way apple does things, they don't like to work with other software.

If you use the 517951 do not buy them in rubber. I did (for use on the back axle of my Toledo) and they fell apart within a year. Replaced with superflex and all fine. In general the new rubber stuff is a poor formulation with a very short life.

Just a reminder that entry is now open.

Hmm, not sure which is the original type of alternator. But the new one is a clear copy of the lucas ACR. I "think" the thick brown cable and the smaller brown with yellow stripe may already go to a plug that will fit your new alternator. I am not an expert on TR7 wiring but I am wondering if the current (sorry) alternator has a battery sense wire or suchlike? But on the new one, it should be 1 or 2 thick brown wires to the 2 large terminals, and the thinner brown/yellow to the small terminal, that operates the ignition light.

Could be SO? special order? BW denotes auto?

To be fair, Colin has made the valid point that you can't drive a car away that the tester regards dangerous. What would be unwise is to continue to drive a car that has failed on other points without fixing them at the earliest opportunity. All this discussion is about sense.

I believe 64 is OK, and teh legislation changed for 1965. The Vitesse we are inheriting has no belts and is a 64. However, I will be fitting them as a priority.

3x assorted sets of pads (Moprod, Don, power train) £5 set or £10 for all 3 sets 2x Unipart NOS pads £10 set, £15 for 2 EBC Greenstuff £15 set. Can deliver to the Club Dinner, or post. Or come and collect from Brighton.

Oh, tricky. On one hand, the car is known not to be roadworthy. (all be it something not safety related) On the other you will be driving to a place of repair. There is about zero chance of getting pulled on the way, and anpr won't know if the car has been fixed or not. If you get stopped, you can explain the car does not require an MoT, but you are taking it for repair. I can't see the plod actually doing anything, they probably don't really understand the rules themselves, any more than we do. Not being terribly helpful, but I would not worry if it were me.

Where abouts in Sussex. I host the East Sussex CT group, you are welcome to pop along for a chat and meet some of the locals. Some of us know our way around theses cars pretty well, and has restored a few. Even pictures would give a reasonable idea. We meet at the Halfway House, Rose Hill (between Lewes and Uckfield) the first Wednesday of the month from about 7.30 and most of us are friendly.

Somebody who recognises quality

There has been a change in attitude. People have access to so many outlets from the established retailers through to ebay etc. So few buy spares to keep on the shelf, and assume they can buy whatever they need when they actually need it. So end up with crappy quality stuff and then complain. A load of people looked at a genuine NOS overdrive switch I was selling. All boxed, and I wanted a little more than a repro. Then the right buyer came along, who had found his brand new repro switch was intermittent. He snapped mine up. Likewise if you have an overdrive gearbox and so on they are the things people will always want. Will I have a stand at Stoneleigh again? Yes, I really like the community feel of a grouop sharing some space, and acting as a focal point for the usual suspects to come and scrounge a cuppa. But I think I will be far more selective in what I take, probably very nice stuff and rummage boxes of £1 stuff.

Oh crikey, to be fast on track will be difficult unless you have deep pockets. Better bet is to get a 1300 small journal engine, and tune that. But if you really want to use the 1147, get the head skimmed to give a compression something around 10 and some porting etc, a good cam (newman seem to be top dogs at the moment) and slap a weber/dellorto on it. An extractor manifold will be required too. Be careful with exhaust, noise limits are sometimes quite low. You may get somewher near 100bhp with a good rolling road setup including distrbutor, though in reality on track the advance curve is not important as revs should alsways be over 3k, often double that. In terms of safety no1 is good brakes. Changing to later Vitesse sized calipers and discs should be quite straightforward, along with something like mintex 1144/55 or Ferodo DS2500 pads. Suspension may benefit from tweaks too. Stronger/lower front springs, and a swing spring at the rear with matching ARB. Set the steering geometry up nicely, and that lot will be about as good as you can get for sensible expenditure. However, do go and take part is at least one trackday before committing, having a dedicated track car is quite an extravagance. Maybe even pop along to a trackday and blag a ride or two. I am at the castle combe day in May with a few others, pop down, bring a helmet and see what it is all about. Or your local meeting, there is one not far from you😉

Having just sold a mk3 spitfire to some people we vaguely know, I fitted a swingspring. And when I drove it I realised how sweet a setup it is (and yes, thicker ARB fitted at the same time, along with std front springs and std shocks)

I rather like a squaretail sans the chrome screen surround. I also rather dislike fitting them. A lot. Maybe the 2 facts are related?

Newton are the only maker, but cheaper buying from other suppliers rather than direct. I fitted a couple of sets over the years, all very good. For soundproofing, I have used Silentcoat as a thin, dense sound reducer. It would work well on a gearbox tunnel, especially if you have a modern replacement (the old pressed cardboard type are very good in that respect) One of the most important things is to make sure any unused holes are sealed and those with cables etc have swell sealed gromits fitted. Likewise around tteh gearbox tunnel a good seal is essential. The moulded carpets come with underlay of sorts attached, so extra not really worthwhile on the floors. The cars are never going to be very refined.

I might disagree with that. On a fast/hard driven car with good power vented discs are a great idea. I would not be without them on my car. But agreed, most are fine with "proper" quality pads.

I saw him on Sunday. But have spoken to him a few times about the car. He REALLY likes it, and John knows how to drive a car very quickly, something he rarely mentions. I was trying to get him along to the TRR trackday in May with it.

Dave Pearson at Canley Classics will know plenty about the 1600 engine. He has been involved with some of the factory rally cars, so will have real knowledge of what made them effective. Of course, you may not want to go that far.

Chicago stuff is great. I had a couole of cheapy air impacts, which worked OK, but a squirt of engine oil down the air intake to get max torque. Must say I do prefer the freedom with battery impacts, though true to form mine is a tightwad version. I quite fancy a battery ratchet, but they seem a bit chunky.

They are keeping their powder dry😉 Website will be fine, it is just the nervous entrants who will be melting down. And I bet people will be hitting the refresh button on the entry list in frustration, but it will only refresh every 5 mins. I will be having a beer out at a friends house this evening. But I will be keeping a weather eye open.

Sorry to break this to you, but I think the manifold pipe shopuld have a T on the back . They are often missing. Pipework for mk3 spit below, all you need to do is use pipes to connect the your heater which has inlet/outlet in different places. pipe 81 and 83 need to connect to that broken pipe of yours. I just did the same thing with a mk3 spit, and used a 1/2" t piece. You will need the under manifold pipe with the t off. I also suggest you get a decent manual for a mk3 or 4 spitfire, there may be onle online somewhere

Yes, done during the entry process.