Davemate
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Everything posted by Davemate
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Having bought a rebuilt engine,how do I find out what cam has been fitted. The chap I bought it from couldn't remeber if it had a fast road cam or not. I've now got the engine running, it starts good and revs good but I can't get it to tickover smoothly. Tappets have been set to 10 thou, the timing has been set to 10 degrees before and the mixture has been set to 2 flats less than 2 full turns down on both carbs. Revcounter states around 800-900 To me it seems like I do have a fast road cam, should I set the tappets with a bigger gap. If I put my hand over the exhaust pipe you can feel strong pulses, vacuum advance is disconected and the carb to rocker cover pipe is blocked off As usual any ideas chaps
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Have mine for two grand and I'll even throw in the car for free ;D
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New tyres and subsequent issues. Help please
Davemate replied to Jessica Herald1961's topic in Running Gear
These are 185's on my steel 5.5j wheels on my herald, I've got rock hard suspension, and yes when really cornering hard the do rub slightly but I have to be cornering quite hard.- 19 replies
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Nick, Doing this 2.5 conversion in my mk1 has been a real pain in the back side,everything has been a struggle. I found a major oil leak from the back of the engine today when cranking it over,I then noticed the little oil way bolt at the back of the head was missing,that's a real pain to fit when the engine is in the car, so many little things I never even thought about.
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Just looked on witors site Seems my pump is an early mk1 one ,which is what my 2ltr engine was -- it has a flat ish arm Late mk1 and mk2 both have an angled up arm,which means I have the wrong pump ! :-/
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The cam seems high in the opening The arm on the pump seems low in the rest position If the prime arm is lifted the arm angle rises a little bit but it's still not angling upwards enought to hit the cam in my opinion Measurment from block to cam is And the arm is only a little longer, if angled up to the hight of the cam then I think the measurement will mean it's only just touching the cam on its end 1) Is there a long or short arm pump ? 2) Is the arm bent on my pump rendering it useless ? 3) Is it worth replacing the manual pump with an electric one anyway ?
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I'm using the glass top fuel pump from my 2ltr that was working fine. Having fitted it to the 2.5 it's not working when the engine is running,it's working when I hand pump it. Can they be fitted wrongly,could I have put the operating leaver under the cam and if I have would it still bolt up nicely onto the block
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Both my heralds and the saloon has always had it connected and none of the above pink.
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Well just to confuse things I've been advised to disconnect the vacuum advance if I don't want my engine to pink
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I'm I right in thinking that I can just fit the dizzy as it falls, then set the engine to TDC and look at the rota arm to see what plug lead it lines up with and make that number 1 and fit the other plug leads in order Please confirm :- 1) Timing Mark on TDC and number 1 rocker rocking = TDC and number 1 firing 2) what's the firing order for 2.5 3) spinning the engine without plugs, is it ok to do this to get the oil up or should I spin the dizzy drive before I fit the dizzy. It's a refurbed engine and it is its first start up As usual, cheers chaps, with luck I'll be up and running tomorrow :) Ps Ignition live feed goes on the + or - on the coil
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8861 wrote:Think ive got one..do you still need one? If that's aimed at me,thanks but no thanks. Mr Harvey has swapped me one for some beer vouchers :)
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Stu I just swapped it with the one Roger gave me, all I can say is it looks the same. No idea what it is though ;D
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Thanks to Roger England, another carb has now been fitted and it's up and running with no fuel leaks. Thanks Roger. Now the wife says she wants to sell it (dizzy) no pleaseing some
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piman wrote:Hello Dave, Alec with a c. That shows plenty of room so definitely no spacer as that would then make the pinion further out of mesh and could increase wear. Alec That's good to know as its fitted :) I've still got to wire it up though
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962 wrote:Type B.30 ZIC.3 or ZIC.5 or PSE.1 So it's one of 3 then ! Are all parts interchangeable ?
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Just tried to order a refurb kit for the wifes carb from Canleys and there seems to be more than one type of solex,it's on a 1964 herald 1200 Basicly petrol is pissing out of the accelerator pump every time the throttle is pushed so I need a new pump diaphragm So what carb is this
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piman wrote:Hello Dave, text message, it must have been someone else as I don't do text? Alec Just realised your not Alex (the lorry driver) always thought that was you :X Oh well ! These pictures ;D
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Alec As per our text message I've fitted it without any spacers
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[quote=10402]1344 wrote: Ah, interesting pic. Did you have the 6:2:1 manifold before you fitted the 6:3:1? What differences did you see? I had a standard manifold on the 2 ltr, I'm in the process of installing a 2.5 so I can't compare it as a before and after
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Buy the way who said "you have to fit the starter before the 6-3-1 manifold" You can't fit the manifold if you fit the starter first, you have to put the manifold loosely in place then fit the starter.
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To remove the old soleniod do I :- Extend the red and yellow wire over to the pre engaged starter and put the other two smallish wires direct to the battery along with a new main power cable direct from the starter
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Sorry chaps,God knows how I missed your last two posts :B Rob Cheers for looking Dave, If you have one knocking about ,then yes please can I purchase it :)
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Good points I'll do as you both say
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Found this,I presume this is correct
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whats involved in changing the wiring from the original starter to the new 2.5 one
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