Davemate
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Everything posted by Davemate
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Entry will be in the post over the weekend,mk1 2000 "Nigel" driven by me,and "Radders" attempting to navigate. we will be selecting the novice set of clues
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RBRR-1966-2015,stories from the roadside..
Davemate replied to Shed 1969's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
2012 --- forgot to take a coat :- never been so cold in my life 😒 2014 ---- dodgy shoulder :- spent the whole event holding my arm up over my head,the only way to relieve the pain 😟 -
CT Essex Rally 18th Oct - Entries Open
Davemate replied to sparky_spit's topic in Comps & Motorsport
He's probably looking up that birds skirt over on the left -
Thanks chaps for all you info Today I fitted and timed the cam up, to my total surprise my order of a new set of followers arrived from mr witor (only ordered them yesterday) so I could fit them and insert the two pushrods into number six pot. I got both pushrods rocking, set the crank to TDC and popped the chain on So I ended up doing it properly Don't know what I was worried about
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I bought a complete "new old stock" clutch at Stoneleigh and as you all must know and probably getting fed up of my ongoing saga Since fitting the above clutch it's endured 15-20 of ticking over and a 1/2 mile drive. As reported there was a knocking sound that suddenly started but it disappeared when the clutch pedal was pushed down. I checked for end float and found about 3-4 mm so I've just had the bottom end re done,the crank was knackered and I've had to have a spare crank re ground and the end float has now been sorted. Today I collected the bottom end from the machine shop and I started to fit it up. When I got to the clutch I've discovered this. I now the end float had to be fixed but I think the knocking my have been this http://youtu.be/Vt0rUCBN3gk I have been told that the blue paint means it's been refurbished,so it's not "new old stock"
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And I was hoping to just line the dots up 🤔
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I need to know in "simple English" how to install a cam into a short block I'm picking up my shirt block on Tuesday and I'm hoping to fit the cam,oil pump and fit the sump so I can fit the bottom end back into the car. The head and all the other bits will be done later(soon as time allows) I've read my thick workshop manual but it only gives instructions with the head fitted, ie fit cam with crank set at 45 degrees before TDC and then once head is fitted you set the tappets and aligne everything up. Is there another way to set the cam up as I want to fit the timing cover and fit things up without the head being on Hope I'm making sence !
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The time will soon be opon me I'll be putting my engine back together do I :- Just use all the gaskets dry Or Use a sealer and if so which one I'm not a lover of using sealers as I believe that's what the gasket is for,but as it's the first engine I've built from a naked short block I'll go with the accepted procedure as I don't want to have to pull it back out to cure a leak
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The picture isn't of my crank,it's just for illustration purposes ! Not sure Ted,I'll let you know
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Ted The problem is with the thrust washer on the flywheel side (outer one) not the big end or main bearings. The lip has almost worn away and there's a deep groove on the "face"
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Been waiting since Aug 20 Made a phone call yesterday to enquire on progress of my engine, they did say they had a 6 week lead time as they are very busy ! They said :- The crank in the engine is knackered and the cheapest option for me was to use a second crank I left with them. I gave them a second crank that I knew needs a re grind to use if that was the case They could repair the crank but after re hardening the repair the crank would need to be re ground to ensure all is true as the heating process could "and probably would" he said warp it very slightly. So by just re grinding the "spare" crank I've saved the cost of the repair Re grind New shells Re assembly (crank,pistons and flywheel) £600 I'm not best happy at spending another £600 but if the work isn't done then I've got no engine,so it is what it is Should get it back in two weeks,so with luck I'm back on the road in 3 or 4 weeks,depending on work and weather
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Not sure what Radders has fitted to gurtie but whenever I've been in her she seems to corner pretty flat,but there is nearly 35 stone on board holding her down 😀
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I'm going to go for it being a standard pi cam and everything else not quite right as Andy has said. Marcus One thing I have never quite understood about setting up a cam Bolt holes in the end of the cam :- not movable Bolt holes in cam sprocket :- not movable Teeth on end of crank :- not movable Cam chain :- it's a set length Dots / marks on cam wheel and block or crank:- not movable As long as you line the marks up then it all must be set correctly. How can it go wrong
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Pete there are no other marks or stamps on the cam anywhere on it,so I'll presume it's just a standard pi cam
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Carl said it had a 1 in 3 chance of being a lumpy cam as he had built 3 engines and each time he just grabbed a cam from the draw and fitted it. He said one had 777 stamped on and as I said it was a lumpy tick over then it could be the 777, I don't think Carl would mistake 777 with the above longer number. The cam is in very good condition so it's going back in with the tappets set back at 10 thou as if it's just a pi cam and I'll see how it goes, I can always to a compression test to make sure the cam is letting the valves shut properly. Just got to now wait for the machine shop to call and tell me what they find when they pull the crank out, I've given them a spare crank that needs a re grind so it's up to them Sort out the existing crank/thrust washers that has good shells Or Re grind the other crank and fit that,but this option may require new shells I await their call
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Today I've removed my engine and delivered it to an engineering firm to sort out the end float problem. As I pulled it apart I've found I'm in need of a couple of questions answered The block I'm presuming is recessed, are there any differences in what head or any other gaskets I need to buy Secondly, the cam,is there any way of finding out what it is by useing a vernier gauge ? for the ten mins that the engine has been run it revved ok but ticked over like an absolute lumpy son of a bitch, the tappets had been set at 10 tho. Carl who built the engine has said that it "might be a fast road cam, possibly an isky 777 as it had 777 stamped on it" The cam is now out of the engine I've looked all over it and the only things stamped on it are a "2x" halfway along it and the numbers 308775 (the last didgi could be an 8 ) up one end I do have another pi cam but that one has stanpart and a few other numbers stamped or cast on it
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Ohms law ? Fuse blow --- fit bigger fuse 🤔 Fuse blow ---- fit even bigger fuse 🙂 Get Fire extinguisher put out fire 😀 Replace wire, fit correct fuse
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Does it really matter if the cam followers and pushrods don't go back from were they came ? I'm hoping to pull my engine out this weekend and knowing my luck the bits will get jumbled up as I pull it apart. The engine has supposedly just been rebuilt so if the bits are either new or in good shape so,should it matter it's had a different cam fitted from standard and the engine has only been run for approx 5-10 of and on since the re build
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I've been advised to,apparently it's not a good idea to run 4 bulbs from one relay. On the loom one relay does did beam and the other one for main beam.
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The picture is, a standard 1200 manifold with a 12/50 system, the 1200 standard pipe is longer than the 12/50 pipe as you can see Hope it helps, if it doesn't I can take a picture of the manifold and pipe together on the car
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570 wrote:The impressive flame flash and pop has gone on switching off and it doesnt sound quite as good as it did. Its lost some of its deep growl. . Don't you just hate it when that happens :-/
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I'd do it myself. In fact I did ! Only take one apart so if you get stuck you can look at the other one to see how it all goes back together Look around on here as there's loads of pictures of folk refurbing their carbs
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796 wrote:can ye no check the valve opening against the pullly wheel!! If yer rockers are worn, with an indent on the faces, then a 10 gap may well be a 13-18 gap already M I presume I'll have to pull the front of the engine apart to do that and I've only just put it in the car and got it running :( I wouldn't have thought the builder would have used worn rockers so I would say there all ok, I bought the engine assembled and knowing who it built it I know it's all ok.