Stuart Wilson

I've not used the TR since the RBRR in early October. Car has just sat on the drive. I'm back home for a couple of days and thought it would be best to move it inside. Go to start it and it eventually fired, but as soon as let go of the ignition key it stops. As if it's losing ignition feed I guess. I'm not going to be spending anytime at the moment looking at it. But will heed to do something with it when I'm back home over the Christmas period. Any suggestions? I'm thinking of rigging up some switches to bypass ignition switch to see if that's at fault

Dates added to my calender, hoping i'll be able to do it this time

Is there a date for the 2024 event? or have i missed it somewhere thanks

Haven't worked out mpg but put in approx 250 litres. Not sure how much is left, tricky to tell with no fuel gauge. Yes that's right no working fuel gauge. Wetherby fuel price was absolutely ridiculous. We knew that before and had planned to fill else where. We went 20miles north and filled at Conygarth truck stop near Leeming and it was about 35p per litre cheaper!!!

I have the atlas marked up Google maps, tomtom & W3W apps on phone in case needed

Living about 40 minutes south of Carter Bar and use the A68 on most of my trips to Scotlandshire when working there. I'm guilty of I guess just taking that view for granted. Same as the rest of the A68, it's in on my doorstep, awesome road but watch the blind crests..........and tight corner at Swinburne quarry For those who have only ever done that route in the dark in the RBRR you should try and return and to it in the daylight

Update the fan is now working, relay was at fault. Now the breather pipe from the tank to filler neck gas decided to become porus. Getting to the clip on the tank end is proving difficult......but got all day tomorrow

Well the TR7 now starts first turn if the key. But now the temp gauge has given up. Not going to try and sort original, ordered a universal after market one. Fingers crossed be here tomorrow, also thermal switch for fan doesn't appear to be cutting in, so a flick switch will be fitted in car. One year I'll have the car fully ready in plenty time........well maybe. Oh and if anyone is wondering yes it's still multi coloured

That would probably be have been me in 2012. It could well have been a poor quality paint job

Hate to say it if you need air fittings PCL is the one to have rather than draper or other tool companies. Clue is in the name really PCL is pneumatic components limited

Right update on the fuel gauge saga...... So with sender disconnected gauge doesn't move, so to me this pointed to sender unit possibly being faulty. Bought new sender unit, plugged the wires on, just held the sender while someone watched the gauge. Exactly the same as before. Sat in the car, took pin out of the multi plug and fitted in a wire took that straight to sender, then put earth straight from sender to battery and guess what it's exactly the same. I have noticed with the sender in the empty position the needle is on the lower side of the full mark, in full position it's on the full side of the mark. So the gauge range is the thickness of the full mark. I'm now thinking it will be staying broken, managed two RBRR with it broken plus trip round Ireland and various other events. I haven't got the time to spend hours going through wiring trying to find a fault, loads of other stuff I need to do. If someone has a dash cluster that they know 100% works it would be great to try, but other than that it's staying how it is.

I'm currently working on two fresh doors to go on mine. Getting there with them, they'll not be perfect as I'm no bodywork wizard but they'll be better than what's on there at the moment

I was thinking that but thought I'd ask, shame as I have the red.

What anti freeze are people using in the Sprint engine? I have a quantity of red (can't remember the spec) from when I changed radiators on my Porsche, would this be ok or would it be better with the good old fashioned blue?

That looks fine, similar to how mine was last time

Gone back to basics/the start. Had everything connected up, fault on gauge. Disconnect wiring from sender gauge doesn't move. So looks like faulty sender, best get new one ordered. Amazing sometimes try and overthink stuff when just need to start again and keep it simple. Thank for everyone's input, I'll keep updating how it goes.

Be back at it tomorrow I think, I've emptied the fuel out...... probably over 30 litres. I've tried that many different things I'm probably going to start again. Not sure if I've tried ignition switched on with wires off sender. That may be first task tomorrow. Need to double check the wire positions on the sender. Three wires, black - earth, gr/b - gauge, gr/o - low level light relay. centre spade connector - earth, T - gauge, W - low level light. ???

Benching testing another gauge I have and an old sender which I believe may be faulty. Ideally I'd like to take sender out of the tank, but not sure on fuel level. The sender in tank was new in last car, but didn't work then either. Starting to think it could be a faulty sender unit

As I've run a wire direct from sender unit to the cluster that has eliminated a problem in the main loom. So I'm thinking it is the Flexi circuit board at fault. Next I'll look at removing the gauge and wiring it up independently.

Ran a temporary wire from sender to dash multi plug, with the original wire removed. Should say I had same issue on the previous car. So I'm presuming issue is with the parts I've swapped over which is tank and instrument cluster. Next I'll look at wiring up totally seperate from the original loom. The temperature I'll replace sender see what happens. My thinking on this one is if it was the wire going to earth it would do that regardless if it was connected. An after market temp gauge is much more straightforward to fit than a fuel gauge. But it may come to that

Not sure if this has been asked before. On my TR7 the fuel gauge reads full as soon as the ignition is turned on. Tried another tank unit and it's the same, tried running a seperate wire from sender straight to dash multi plug, it's the same. I'm pretty sure I've swapped the actual gauge at some point too. Could the fault be in the actual dash/printed circuit? Also now have same issue with temperature gauge, going straight to max as soon as ignition on. Yes it could well be the sender unit, but I have tried one from another engine I have lying about. Any suggestions or has anyone got a good complete dash cluster at a normal non bank breaking price

No more progress on the TR7 as of yet. Doesn't help I'm working away 90% of the time. But a week off at the end of the month should hopefully see a little bit of progress

Be my first time there, had a little bit of a list of bits and pieces I might need, slight problem the list is in the garage in Northumberland and I'm travelling from Essex via Leicestershire.

Yes it's still multi coloured, yes it still has 2021 RBRR stickers on, yes it does go and stop and yes it does still need a little more fettling. But it's a lot further on this time than it was two years ago if people remember the pictures

Yeah I've booked premier Inn for the Thursday and Sunday. Reason for the Thurs is as traveling from Northumberland don't really want to drive down Fri then start the event