npanne
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Everything posted by npanne
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They are a different design - the GT6 one has a larger diametre stub axle, and different calliper mounting holes.
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1317 wrote: Varying the space between blades prevents harmonic resonance building up. The fan isn't "tuned" to make one pitch at one speed. Cheers, Paul Okay - that makes sense - cheers.
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Just wondering - I have the mkIII type yellow plastic 7 blade fan, and I notice that the blades aren't evenly spaced (I think you can see this in the picture above, but not clear with the angle that picture is taken) - anyone know why this might be?
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2276 wrote:...excuse me for being thick here but how can I turn it over by hand or whats the best way its the first time all the loom etc have been off so I haven't as yet turned it over without running it as previously I would always start it up and allow it to run for a short period Plugs out (prevent compression), then just turn the front pulley or flywheel with your hands - all you're trying to do is prevent it seizing, so it doesn't need to be turned much - one or two full rotations should be enough.
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FWIW Nick, I think you're perfectly entitled to get what you can for it - it's always a shame to break a car, but the big saloons / estates don't seem to command a massive price in any condition, and you're the one with the financial investment in this car, no-one else. Having looked through the stuff that's listed on eBay, I'm not sure that you'll cover the �700 that you have been offered - maybe if someone was to stick their hand up and offer you close to the same amount for the whole car then it might be the best option all round - but I haven't heard anyone suggest that they will.
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2191 wrote:Ah ok. May I asked what make you used? And was the engine out or in? Just thinking about it setting without heat. Or does it just dry soft until the engine is running? Sorry - lots of questions. My mates have used more of it than I have - I did a head which was off the car, and it dried fine. My mate used it on a whole engine that was out of he car - another mate used it in situ - no hassles either way.
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The stuff I've got is Tetrosyl Engine Lacquer - drys naturally (ie doesn't need heat to cure), and brushed straight onto metal / old paint after cleaning. The instructions suggest etch primer for aluminium parts.
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It goes a lot further than you think - I've got a tin that's done two blocks and three heads, and it still looks untouched.
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most unusual cars used
npanne replied to Stuart Wilson's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
No-one fancy doing it on a Triumph motorbike? -
most unusual cars used
npanne replied to Stuart Wilson's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Amphicar, anyone? -
When I rounded the corners on mine I filed it to a tapered square and hammered the drive end of a torx socket on it, then used the equivilent sized torx bit in this - if that makes sense?
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I also have a tatty pair (or two) kicking around. PM if interested.
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Hub puller not needed for fronts - only rears. No input to the other points as I haven't done this myself (yet) - however I would say that bushes are always worth changing, and poly ones are much better than the repro rubber ones out there - with regards to the shocks and the hubs - well I guess if it ain't broke then don't fix it - that said, I always hate bolting old bits to nice new shiny bits (which is where the cash-spiral begins). Oh, and bearings - for the price they are, I'd replace to save yourself a job later - they are a wear item, so unless you KNOW that the current ones are new, there's a fair chance that they'll need doing soon.
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This is my take on the pipe: My only concern is whether it'll be too hot that close to the block.
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GT6? I've just done this job, and I had to use a pipe bender to prevent distortion. The key thing is to keep it clear of the fan belt that it goes pretty close to, depending on which route it goes - mine is not as per original, and I've brought it round by the coil mounting points (coil is moved to bulkhead), and used these to hold the pipe in situ on the near side, and I just need a small P clip in one of the water pump housing bolts to hold it secure at the front - will try to get some pictures.
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This might explain my previous problems, as I had electronic ignition fitted - presumably this was impacted by the presence of the resistor wire, and might account for why I could never get a decent spark from it.
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Have answered my own question - I've got the (correct) 6v one.
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Thanks Harry, So given that I don't have a solid resistor anywhere on the bulkhead, I assume I've got a wire in there somewhere. Is there any way to test the coil I have to see whether it's 12v or 6v? I recall changing it once, but can't remember now whether this was before, after or coinciding with the running problems (it's been years since this car ran properly!). Thanks
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Hopefully this is a schoolboy question - do bear with me... MkIV Spit - does it / doesn't it have a ballast resistor? How do I tell for sure? Are they visible? I've heard mention of an "incorporated" resistor wire??? And how can I tell if I hve the right coil type? Before I pulled it all apart, it was running REALLY badly. At the time I gave up trying to diagnose it and ripped the old engine out, but now I'm getting it back together, I want to check I have the right coil for the wiring that's there - the electronic ignition has gone (which may have been the cause), but if I've got the wrong coil in there I'd rather find out now than spend a day trying to start an engine that's got no hope! Thanks all.
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What are you after - CD150 / 150S / 150SE? New / refurbed or used?
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If it helps, I have a used HS2 heatshield that I could be pursuaded to part with....
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If it helps, I have a used HS2 heatshield that I could be pursuaded to part with....
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I've just had my very crusty (ie bought from a breakers, looked like they'd been outside for a decade) callipers refurbed by Bigg Red, and I am MEGA impressed - the price varies depending on finish, the top whack is similar to new (bit higher than Canleys), but they do come with a nice coating for that. I paid £140 for a pair of GT6 callipers. Pictures on this thread: http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1332231684/s-1074/#num1074 Having said that, Canleys stuff is usually pretty good too.
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2250 wrote:Maybee Mk1-3, where the indicators and side lights are part of the bonnet? Harry Now you say that - the item does show "multiple applications", some of which are early spit: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RL1570
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The RHD MkIVs didn't have any fuse on the lights other than the fuse on the + feed to the switches. The wiring diagram for the LHD models does show the extra inline fuse for the lights, but never fitted over here.