npanne
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Everything posted by npanne
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I've had problems with the six-cylinder mechanical fuel pumps - namely that they leaks terribly. I suspect that an electric alternative is on the cards as, like the OP, I've thrown far too much money at units that aren't fit for purpose. Is Facet the way to go? And is there a flow rate that I should be aiming for?
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http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1360670248/s-0/highlight-HS6/#num0
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One thing I found when researching these carbs is that, if fitting to a small chassis car (well, at least if fitting to a Spit / GT6), you need the float chambers to be different - one sits higher then the other to compensate for the "nose up" angle of the engine. I'll try to find the thread on here - someone explained it very well.
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Now this might sound like a stoopid question, but you guys must be used to those by now. When fitting Poly bushes to the rear trunnions, do you still need the two-part metal caps that are used with the plastic ones? I assumed that the poly bit was a straight replacement for the plastic bit, and the rest would be the same, but I got a polybush set and it only has the two bush parts (per side) and the metal tube that runs through the middle.
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Thanks marcum had forgotten about that.
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While I'm here - does anyone happen to know a source for the rear brake cylinders for the late mk III GT6 - the ones with the adjuster in the cylinder? Are these common to the 1500 saloon rear brakes? I've found someone selling these (see pic) - they look the same, and they are the same bore, but can't find any reference to cross-compatibility.
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Does anyone happen to have a picture handy of the back of the read brake back plate - primarily to see how the rigid brake pipe routes from the bracket (where it joins the flexi-hose) to the cylinder?
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Thanks Brendan
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Right - so Late (post-FH50000) should have the longer shafts, and therefore be directly compatible with the late GT6 (non-roto, obviously) shafts?
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Does anyone know the cut-off in production of the MkIV where the longer rear driveshafts came in? If replacing in pairs, does it actually matter whether you have long or short? Does anything else need to change to match either?
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Depends which diff you have. Front suspension also involves changing the towers (different engine mounting holes), and uprights, hubs and stub axles - basically everything between the wishbones.
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I could weigh my spare GT6 bonnet for you, but I suspect that it's significantly lighter than when it left the factory - I must have swept up a kilo of it over the years.
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Right, here goes.... I see a potential FAULT with that set-up - I think it might LET go when you give it some DEUCE, unless properly SERV(E)-iced, and then it'll make a right RACQUET. Sorry
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Testing water temperature
npanne replied to Saltddirk's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Having never taken part in any events, I have absolutlely no experience at all - so take anything I say with a pinch of salt - however one consideration might be the lack of parts compatibility with other teams, meaning you would need to carry everything you need yourself, and if something breaks that you don't have in the car, there won't be another team who can lend you a replacement. -
I think they were fitted from new - probably removed by a PO at some point. In the attached image you can see the solid pipes (parts 18 & 19). The Spit set-up has the flexi hoses going directly into the caliper - no idea why they went for one design over the other in different applications - unless the larger caliper fitted to the GT6 takes the hose too close to the wheel for a flexi? I'm sure someone knows - not me though!
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There are (although not very clear in this picture due to their colour) small L shaped brackets that attach to the top caliper mounting bolt and support the brake line at the union between flexi and copper pipe - you'll want to get (or make) these to ensure that the copper pipe isn't stressed.
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PS - I made these up from pictures of others, so they may not be EXACTLY as standard.
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GT6? There should be a copper pipe out of the caliper that loops round and meets the flexi-hose about where the top mounting bolt is - I've got a picture somewhere, hang on a tick....
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If you have the bowl part number, I might have one lying around somewhere - they do differ very slightly, but the part number is cast on it somewhere (AUD something I think), and I can check my pile of carb bits. I might even have a couple of screws left, if I haven't used / dropped all of them.
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For what it's worth, I've got two stands, one of which is the cheapy cheapy type (three wheel, £60 jobbie) that I usually only use for transmissions - well last summer I got fed up of tripping over my spare engine so I hung it off the cheap stand, and it's still doing just fine on there now - it turns through 360 when I need it to, and it hasn't fallen off yet.
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The build on most of the stainless offerings is variable, to say the least. Mine (a 6-3-1 Phoenix unit) was an absolute s0d to fit as one of the primaries comes out far too close to the stud - so close in fact that the nut doesn't have room to turn (one of the flats is pressed against the manifold), let alone get a socket on there. I can also see from dry-assembly that I'm going to have problems with the 3-1 joint as it's not tight enough to seal, but there's not room to get a clamp on it.
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Hahaha - V8 chainsaw? Why does that look like something invented for Top Gear?
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Tyres should be age stamped - see link for deciphering the code: http://www.123motor.ie/tyres-age/14 Older tyres (pre 1999) might not have these - but if they are that old they are prob due replacing anyway!
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Following advice on here, I used some clear tubing to suck petrol through by mouth - could clearly see when it came through, preventing a mouthful of unleaded.