npanne
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Everything posted by npanne
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Don't know how I didn't already know this - but worth a read : https://sites.google.com/site/.....-carb-floatbowl-info Pretty fundamental design flaw with the float bowls.
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Having never done an endurance run I don't can't comment on what works best in that situation - but I have had experience of having too much Red Bull before - on an evening when I was the designated driver, and I maintain that I was more impaired on that stuff than I would have been on alcohol. Everyone's different, but there's no substitute for kip
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I used H&H for a dizzy refurb - very impressed with the results. http://www.h-h-ignitionsolutions.co.uk No connection / vested interest etc etc
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The gap illustrated above is 95mm on a GT6 turret. Sadly I don't have a Spit tower to measure, but this should give you some idea.
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Vitesse and late Herald, and all GT6 used the same (part # 305592-305593) Early Herald's used a different part number (303590) - although I'm not sure what the difference was All Spits used 305746-305747 with the different engine mounting position
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Edit - I don't know what's up with the picture link - maybe the host doesn't want it linked? anyway - here's the page I lifted it from : http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6project/spit6_framedifferences.htm
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And I seem to recall (not that it's important, but some trivia for you) that it is the Spitfire ones that are different to allow the Spit engine to fit - the GT6 towers are the same as Herald and Vitesse
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Not easy if you don't have two to compare. If no-one manages to get you a measurement before this evening, I'll pop into the garage and get some numbers for you.
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Like many others, I gave up on eBay a while back. I had problems as both a buyer and a seller, and the cut that they / PayPal take doesn't represent value for money. Final straw for me was an item I purchased but which never arrived. Chased seller, and he had a delivery receipt from courier saying that it'd been put through letterbox. Pointed out that item was far bigger than a letterbox. Courier changed their answer to "left in back garden". Pointed out that I was in the back garden all afternoon, and the gate was locked. At this point the seller decided that I was pulling a fast one (and I don't blame him - I would have thought the same) - eBay agreed and refused to refund. Not worth my time to follow up anymore, so gave up on my money, but vowed there and then to avoid eBay for anything except cash purchases.
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Like many others, I gave up on eBay a while back. I had problems as both a buyer and a seller, and the cut that they / PayPal take doesn't represent value for money. Final straw for me was an item I purchased but which never arrived. Chased seller, and he had a delivery receipt from courier saying that it'd been put through letterbox. Pointed out that item was far bigger than a letterbox. Courier changed their answer to "left in back garden". Pointed out that I was in the back garden all afternoon, and the gate was locked. At this point the seller decided that I was pulling a fast one (and I don't blame him - I would have thought the same) - eBay agreed and refused to refund. Not worth my time to follow up anymore, so gave up on my money, but vowed there and then to avoid eBay for anything except cash purchases.
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Instinctively I would say yes, but one thought that occurs is that the 1500 Spit had a small segment cut away from the top chassis rail to allow the exhaust to clear it - this wasn't on earlier Spits (not even the otherwise similar MkIV), so I wonder whether there is anything specific to the 1500 engine that requires a little more clearance?
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One of the many things that came fitted to my Spitfire, but that eventually gave up the ghost, was an electronic fuel pump. At the time I decided that I'd revert back to a mechanical pump whilst I was swapping the engine, but I've had no end of trouble with these - to cut a long story short, they leak, from everywhere (not the hose connections, but the different parts of the pump), and I'm not convinced that that are pumping fuel reliably, so I figured I'd just go back to an electronic pump. Does anyone know what sort of fuel flow or Psi I need to aim for? Engine is 2.0 six, with HS6 SUs. Also - whilst I think of it - is it better to remove the mechanical fuel pump and blank off the whole? Previous installation (not by me) had the old pump still in situ, just not plumbed to anything, but I guess this adds some small resistance to the engine, if nothing else? thanks
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I put a small wood screw in the hole - I can't remember know whether I tightened it so that it pushed against the end of the stub axle, or whether I just used it to grip the cap and pulled it with mole grips (it was a while ago now).
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Yep - the big terminal is the positive feed from the starter solenoid - the smaller terminal just need bridging to the larger one. The small terminal is for cars that don't run a solenoid, in which case this would be the activation wire (from the ignition switch), but presuming that you're keeping the original solenoid set-up, you just need to bridge them with a short length of wire.
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Thanks chaps - I'd figured out the ratchet mechanism, but couldn't be sure whether it was acting on handbrake on or handbrake off - the wear in the arm was ambiguous, so I suspect it had been fitted backwards at some point. All work has stopped now whilst the garage comes down (to be rebuilt eight feet to the right - I kid you not) - clearing everything out has made me realise how much space I'd have if I kept it clear - time to be ruthless with a lot of those "saving just in case" parts - particularly the bonnets...
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While I'm on the topic of brakes - a couple more questions. Firstly - the flexi hoses - I've just received a set of new hoses to fit - but do the longer ones go on the front or the rear? I'd guess at front, due to the greater range of movement, but does anyone know for sure? Secondly - as I've replaced various nuts and bolts, I've applied liberal smears of copper slip to aid future disassembly - but the things that were truly impossible to undo were the brake line unions - is there anything wrong with putting some copper slip on these as I replace them, provided it only goes on the thread and doesn't get into the system?
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Similar - this was mine before I welded the arm onto the linkage for the cable to connect to:
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Good point - thanks.
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Thanks everyone - that makes perfect sense.
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Hi all, Can anyone confirm, or does anyone have a clear picture showing how the adjuster mechanism fits to the late GT6 MkIII (non-roto)? I'm building my back axle up from component parts, and whilst I have everything, I am having to piece it together using parts diagrams etc - which has got me 95% of the way, but there's just one thing that's not clear - and that is which way round the adjusters (the toothed wheel) fit into the cylinders - they're "sided", and I have both a left and a right, I just don't know which is which. This was the best picture the internet threw up : And I found a couple on an old thread on here: Sorry , link no longer available But neither show the adjuster clearly enough
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Have you been going at at all this time? Crikey, it must have been stuck fast!
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Tried doing mine last week - despite using an air saw to cut through inner, rubber and outer, the things are still stuck fast - kinda made my mind up to change the spring, which is looking past its best anyway.
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Perfect - thanks for putting me straight on that.
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Afternoon all. After a good 18 month or so of car neglect (the poor thing has been buried under building supplies whilst we had work done on the house), I decided that I need to get cracking, and the next job (hastened by now seized read brakes) is the replacement of the driveshafts for the lovely recon units I've have sitting patiently waiting. I've just read the workshop instructions in readiness for this task, and it all seems quite simple - but something at the back of my mind tells me that I've heard of the need for a rear spring compressor (/ long iron bar) when reconstructing - but nothing of the sort is mentioned in my manual, and Google doesn't find anything similar either - have I misunderstood, or completely made this up?
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Thanks - if I can find a glass-topped pump I'll go with that, otherwise a facet one at some point. The ones I've had have all leaked from the top - the brass coloured cap, and also where the top and bottom halves join too. I don't mean a gentle seep, I mean pouring out - and it's been three in a row - the trouble is that each time there's been months between purchase and fitting, so I don't feel that I can return them. Maybe I've just been unlucky, but I'm not throwing any more cash at those types.