npanne
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Everything posted by npanne
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Yeah - that'll be the blue ones - the red / green / black ones are for the lower lights, which is why I was all confuddled about them sharing a protective outer with the headlight cables!
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In amongst a pile of triumph parts that I acquired some time back, there was a lovely original GT6 rocker cover that had been blasted and painted / coated, and at first glance it looks really nice. When you look a little closer though, it's obvious that someone didn't think this through and has blasted the inside - there is still quite a bit of blast media on the inside of the case, and whilst most of it can be removed (albeit a rather painstaking process), I'm worried about what lies beneath the flap bit that leads to the breather tube - if the media has got under here (and I suspect it has) - is there any easy way to get it out, or is it just going to be easier to bin the thing and get one of my other ones blasted (on the outside only) when I can be bothered rather than risking abrasive media getting into the engine?
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Thanks Clive / Wimpus - what you say seems to tie in with what I removed from my car - I was just confused by how the new part comes made up: So the three headlight wires are sheathed in with the sidelight / indicator wires. I can pick this apart and use the wires for the lower lights run along the crossmember and the upper lights up the hinge and along the inside of the bonnet - it just seemed odd that it should be made up like this is the first place.
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Been looking to replace the dry/crusty/sticky tape and plasters mess of a front loom on the Spit, and I've got a couple of questions for you knowledgable chaps: 1. What is the max amp rating that goes to the front lights - I'm guessing its the full beam, but what current do they run at? Have been looking at the AMP Superseal waterproof connectors, as the OEM bullet connectors seem open to the elements a bit. 2. Where do all the front lights earth? I see that each light unit has an earth return cable that comes backto the connection point, so they don't earth at the units - is there an earth point somewhere that I migh have removed? 3. I've got a replacement front loom (very grandiose term for a couple of straight wires) for both sides, but it seems odd to me. They're bundled together in "sided" units, but this makes no sense as the headlight units in the bonnet are a fair distance from he indicator / sidelight units - surely all the bonnet mounted lights want to go in one bundle (tucked inside the front lip of the bonnet), and the lower lights separately? Or am I being stoopid?
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They are lovely - but they are also pricey, and I'm not sure that they make them in GT6 size?
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Was looking yesterday at the rear drums sitting forlornly in the garage awaiting some attention. They are a right old mess, and I was always planning to just clean them up and give them a coat of caliper paint, however I've just received my refurbished calipers back from Bigg Red (highly recommend them - they've done a great job), and the polymer coating on these looks so good I'm thinking of seeing whether they can do the drums too. Then I remembered reading on here someone saying not to paint the mating surfaces (think that was in the context of a spacer, but same principle), as the wheel nuts are then liable to work loose - thoughts?
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Thanks both - I think it's just the "horn ring" part that I need, as the rest of the horn push seems to be intact, and I remember the bridging strap that goes over the joint being there (although I will check it). Rimmers are showing the horn ring in stock - so problem solved. Cheers
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Yep
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Sorry - should have mentioned - MkIV - '73
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One of the many "improvements" made by the previous owner of my Spitfire was to replace the horn wiring which runs up the steering column (which I understand regularly fails) and instead wire in a toggle switch under the dash to operate the horn (and not even a spring returning one at that). I've never been keen on this set-up, and whilst everything else is getting repaired / replaced, I thought I'd look to reinstate the column wiring to the proper horn push, but I can't find the relevent part on Canley's or Rimmer's websites. Does anyone know whether anyone stocks the wires that run up the column (or know the part number), or know what rating wire i would need to make up my own? Cheers folks.
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Hard to add anything else constructive, but if it makes you feel any better, I've just ripped out an enormous spaghetti-esque bundle of wiring that a previous owner had added to my Spit - not one good connection in there, and a whole load of wires that looked woefully inadequate for carrying even a small current, which is concerning given that it looks he was (at some point) running an external amp and some pretty hefty speakers - although god only knows where he had them located, presumably on the passenger seat. Back to your wiring - it depends a lot of the type of radio fitted - nearly all units that have electronic station pre-sets or a built-in clock need a constant live to maintain these - but older units (ie mechanical pre-set types) may not. Standard wire colours are relatively new, and without seeing the unit it's hard to second-guess what you're dealing with - although if you want to rule out the speaker wires you can always pull the speaker out to see what colour wires it has there - presuming it's an unbroken wire from radio to speaker, you at least then know which ones are speaker cables.
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Ordinarily you have the earth (black) a constant live & a switched live (red one and yellow one, although I'm faultering as to which is which) and the blue is an "on" signal to powered aerials and suchlike. The others are then speaker outputs.
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Cheers chaps - measuring the holes for the pad pins confirms I have metric calipers - at muchly.
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Thanks Nick, The calipers I have came from a '73 car, so should be metric. They're marked 16PB, but also have an 'M' stamped near the mounting holes. Oh the joys of collecting components from various vehicles!
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Two quick brake caliper questions: GT6 calipers - with the 16PB units - is there an easy way to tell whether they are imperial or metric? Are they stamped / cast with anything that differentiates between them? Spit (Mk IV) calipers - would they have had imperial or metric hose connections? I'm guessing imperial, as there seems to be no change, but don't want to be guessing when it comes to brakes. Thanks
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uksnatcher wrote: Chin up Wim...they are only wheels and will be worth it, you have been bombarded with info and opinions, you need a break from the wheel issues...find a nice electrical project that you can do for a change of thought..works for me.. ! :) There's nothing like a nice electrical project to get think thinking positive..... and negative .
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What's the best type (grade / brand) of brake / clutch fluid to use? I'm starting with totally new systems (master cylinders, pipes, hoses, slave cylinders/callipers) so there's no risk of mixing new and old.
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Oh FML (as the kids say these days) - can somebody please save my sanity and tell me what sized thread is used on the fuel pump inlet / outlets for the GT6? Have twice tried measuring and ordering unions only to end up with buts that are nowhere near fitting.
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Nick_Jones wrote:Don't use those unless you want to die! I'm glad you said that - I've just binned some GT6 ones that were MUCH better than those.
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And cheers for the answer Clive - the unused one seems to be in good nick - not had a chance to look properly at the "nearly new" one as it's attached to a driveshaft at the bottom of a pile of pieces - still, even one should earn me some beer tokens on eBay (other online auction sites are available).
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Are they not the same thing? ;D
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Sorry to revive an old(ish) thread - but was just wondering... What how can you distinguish one type of doughnut from another? I've got a couple kicking around that I picked up on a whim - one NOS (un-used), the other fitted but only run for a couple of hundred miles (apparently). I'm sure that I can see the word Metalastik on one - does that mean that it's an OE part, or are their "good" and "bad" versions of Metalastik parts?
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I have an email from the heritage motor centre when I asked them exactly the same: Quote: We can trace a car with the engine number. However, this is very time consuming as engine numbers are not recorded in any numerical order. Because of this we have to charge extra for this service.To trace a car with an engine number and produce a Heritage Certificate costs £49 plus postage. The easiest way to order a Heritage Certificate is through the shop section of our website, www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk. There you'll find the option, 'car traced with engine number' Regards
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If it was an overdrive 'box I'd suggest selling it separately.
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Buying a second hand engine is always a gamble if you haven't seen / heard it running and haven't had the chance to do a compression test etc as you are trusting the vendor's description - and prices reflect this. £50 for a heap, £150-£200 for a claimed runner, £300+ for proven runner (seen running etc). Known reconditioned are worth more, but even then struggle to command what they are probably worth as the only way to prove the condition is a full strip down.