IVANHOE

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRIC-Flexible-Nylon-Pneumatic-Air-Line-Tubing-Compressed-Airline-Plastic-Pipe-/130985446247?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item1e7f574b67#ht_4106wt_948 Dont suppose this stuff can work for ya?

I have some gauge kits that anyone on here can have at less than cost price. Better they get used than sitting in storage. They are electric and I had intended for them to be permanently installed, however the sender units dont last and I therefore pulled them from sale. The sender would be fine if not used permanently. The gauge has proved reliable, its only the sender that has a limited lifespan. The gauge measures to 150psi. You get the "T" piece, sender and gauge. £20 + postage to clear. Have sold about a dozen of these previously via ebay and dispatched all over europe. Had no complaints. was selling for just shy of £50. Had one in my vitesse pi for about three years[ hence why i know about the sender longevity problem] Andy.

GREYGATE PLASTIC POLISH. Works well. Tried it myself and was impressed.

junkuser wrote:They appear to all be dipped values. I think original lamps were something like 75/50. Sorry, but I don't agree. The reference to L.H dip or R.H dip is merely the side that the beam is angled towards. The table posted is I believe a pdf of the standard triumph workshop manual. Interested to get this confirmed though.

I read a few posts about halogens being the same wattage as standard sealed beams. However, on looking at the vitesse manual I see that the sealed beams were 37.5/50w outers[main/dip] and 37.5 inners.[main] As opposed to the H4 halogens being 60/55w and the H1's being 55w. So it would seem that even standard halogen bulbs are a higher wattage upgrade. mmmmm, maybe I will fit relays after all. Just thought I would share this info.......... sorry to the people who are already in the know.

1218 wrote:Hello Jordan, that's not a new old stock filter, that's an aftermarket filter.  Triumph never used Wipac from the factory.  My 1200 had a Tecalemit filter when delivered from the factory, I know this because I still have it.  It was changed in January 1966 when the car had done 500 miles! Mark   The term "new old stock" has nothing to do with oe[original equipment]. In my humble opinion.

My vitesse has a 3.63 and only has the 4 studs, I've been using it like that for the past 4 yrs. I'm not saying it's "right" ............ but it's fact.

I have some experience of the same problem. Please check your tracking. If the rear wheels are toe out they are always trying to wind themselves out from under the car, flattening the spring out and giving negative camber. If you reverse, the problem goes the other way and you get positive camber. Try it and see. Sorting the tracking sorted it for me and I now understand why, I couldn't get my head around it initially.

You could add a leaf from one of your old springs. You may just need a slightly longer centre bolt.

http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj215/andyshirley/RBRR%202010%20PLOUGH/?action=view&current=PICT0061.mp4 Just a plough car park walk around, may be of interest to someone.

Richard_B wrote: You don't say what pump you have, but the Bosch pump does not like having a pump in front. I think in Estate or custom installations (where you have not got a head of petrol) then a lifter pump does help. If running a Lucas pump then a cooling ring is advantageous. Sorry Richard, yes its the lucas pump with cooling coil.

I would like to offer a run down of what I have done and learned about the pi system as installed in my vitesse. I have plucked information from all the usual Internet sources. Here is a summary of what I found to be important, please forgive me for repeating things that you will already know. As a total newby to triumphs 3yrs ago I now know enough about the pi system to offer a few words of wisdom. Lots of people get sooty plugs, in particular 4,5 and six especially with short drives......... I now use ngkbp5e and the hotter plug seems to suit my vehicle usage far better than the bp6e's. A re-con metering unit and injectors from Neil Ferguson[k raven smith] Is a wise and not too expensive starting point. Contrary to what some people say , I found the metering unit timing to be important, I suppose it depends how much it is out. CHECK IT. I haven't a clue what my ignition timing is set at............... using a vacuum gauge and if it pinks retard it technique is the best. Also, If it aint ticking over at 12HG vacuum I know somethings wrong. The pi definitely loves to be used very regularly. If running rough - You are monitoring fuel pressure. After that I always check plugs and pull the injectors one at a time with engine running to check if injecting ok. My plugs are sooooo much better now[bp5]. The injectors generally respond to tapping them slightly on the side until they start to spray again. As you know I have refurbished my throttle linkages and balanced the butterfies with an equal it out best you can at idle and 1500rpm and 2000rpm method using a uni-sync. I did uprate the wiring to the pump and use a relay. Mine did have an su helper pump but I found no difference with it on or off so I removed it. It still uses the original filter. The pump and filter are below the tank [just]. My fuel pressure gauge and vacuum gauge are permanently installed to let me know whats happening. I know there is lots more info, the above is the basics that have helped me.............. mine is running sweet and seems 100% reliable............I trust it to set off anywhere................. even though it does look like a pile of s h i t e.

Whats happening with the lucas to make you give up on it Carl............... just curious?