dinger
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Everything posted by dinger
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On the overall responses .. I could not agree more
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Be aware that when an alternator goes on load as demand increases , that 'drag' on the engine increases due to the way the alternator works in that it does sap power to some degree
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If intent on running dynamo - add a 15-0-15 ammeter to check load at anytime since 22 amps is not much and you can see which way the wind blows. Always used one on various old heaps back in the day for reassurance ..
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Back in the 1960s - Certain garages offerred a couple of shots of Redex gratis with every gallon...
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Absolutely
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Older , more decrepit .. hopefullu wiser ....
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2 men with slings , and strong length of timber maybe .. but truly .. use hoist
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Replace the fusebox
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Got my fingers burned by local tester in the 1070s by using it beneath my 1966 midget .. it was one of the many issues upon which it failed , although it was particularly singled out as downright dangerous and utterly prohibited . I suppose that it could be possible if the pipe was positioned such that it was totally protected which may be what Triumph did ,as the tester stipulated that abrasion and possible cut damage was the reason.
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Nope . take off the water pump .. allowing for the possibility of the long pipe being knackered and twist/lever the plug out . It looks bad and could give at any time . As a bonus - removing the pump will allow examination of its condition and some access to the water jacket to clear local rubbish away to give some reassurance .
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find some thin foam double sided tape and make your own?
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find some thin foam double sided tape and make your own?
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herald type twin spoke ..
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Starter solenoid has burnt contacts
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Trimmed the collar off from mine to allow the rotor arm to drop . Also needed to lift moving sensor ring up the shaft to allow it to generate spark
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Wheel is original . just GENTLY lever out centre disc to access nut underneath ,, remove .. tap wheel from column gently
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Take a plug out and shine a torch down the thread to check . Bend a piece of wire and use it to chack thread depth .. I thought that all Triumph engines had 'long reach' plugs fitted .
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Take a look around the outside of the connector for the edge of the outer wrap around of the connector and wriggle a small blade under it when if you are gentle, you should be able to spring it up . If you then try to gently separate the body of the connector along its centre line then you should finally be left with the slotted metal connection straddling both cables . Remove it and sling away - dreadful bodged things.
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Mine used to separate along the main roof to screentop joint . More rainwater running through than falling outside ..
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You do not need sealant at the base of the distributor .. clean it back to bare metal - the lower part of the distributor body should have an o ring seal which should be perfectly adequate .
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Might be gummed up cam followers ? . You could remove the rocker shaft and try to remove the pushrods which do not rotate . Clean both ends . Put the rods back in turn and rotate the engine by hand while gently holding the tested push rod in place to make sure that the cam followers are free to rise and drop , any tendency for a follower to stick could cause delay in it sliding up and down - both causing noise and possible damage ..
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If you are careful .. you can test the coil by wiring from the positive post on the battery to the positive side of the coil and then taking a flying lead from the other terminal . pull one of the ht leads from the distributor cap and fit a plug .push the other end of the lead into the coil output socket . earth the plug to the cylinder block and stroke the free end of the flying lead to the block which should generate sparks , when you should also see a spark across the plug if the coil is sound . Make sure that no spilt fuel is about .