dinger

Not sure what the loose wires represent without voltage testing - but you do have some form of period electronic ignition pack clipped to the coil .. designed (in some cases - optimistically) to boost ignition spark and to increase the life of the contact breakers by allowing them to be a switch without loading and hence erosion - typically a mob called Sparkrite used to sell something similar. It may be that that is what has failed . Disconnect all the wires from the coil and remove the unit completely from the coil It is possible to establish a spark again if the coil is still sound by cleaning the points (if the above is the case and they are still fitted ) and checking if the points capacitor ( known sometimes as the 'condenser')is present and is wired in and then ensuring the single lead from the distributor  is then connected to the negative/contact breaker connection on the coil while takinga connection from the other connection on the coil to the positive pole on the battery . If you then flick the points open from shut then you should see some sparking at the points indicating a proper circuit . Disconnect the small cylindrical component attached to one of the coil bolts as that is a suppressor designed to reduce ignition generated interference on a car radio and has nothing to do with your immediate problem but is best to isolate in case of any failure . After all this messing around - remove a plug and check for a spark after replacing distributor cap and rotor arm into position .. Note that should this start the car ,, you will only stop it by stalling it or disconnecting the coil feed to the battery .. If the above confuses ,, pm me

Seven wires can be 4 for speakers- two for lives - one battery and one ignition- one for switched retractable aerial or possibly earth .. might otherwise be that earth is through radio casing..

Oil control rings ?

Very good idea ..

Got any sparks ?

From the look of it - replace it ... suspect the bore would be knackered . They are not expensive and that looks like it is past its service life..

Sounds like it should have one ..suggest you check Canley or Rimmers catalogues .. If you need one , I should have one somewhere ..

What age is the car ? the later spitfire did not have a separate  antitorque feature  as they redesigned and simplified the whole thing with the TR7 type  column which had more substantial mounts .. The raised clip as described should be positioned to be level such that equal movement of the wheel in either direction lock to lock will trip the turn indicator stalk back to rest after a turn signal .. if found not to be properly aligned , then it use is not to full advantage ..

Be careful .. piston sets are supposed to be selected such that they should weigh the same and there can be minor design differences . A replacement if not the same weight, may cause vibration not there before due to out of balance forces .. If you intent on buying oddd piston , be prepared to at least check its weight with one existing ..

if memory serves ,, 9 toothed pinions were more universal for BMC cars but Ford used 10 toothed units for Anglias - Mark 1 Cortinas etc .. Ford used to have a tendency for jamming starters when they had a few miles under their wheels . There was a slight difference in tooth pitch between the two ..

Yep - revived many a heap of cr.p .. First principles have born fruit .. old enough to have used these contraptions as day to day transport .. must have been mad ...

And yet another suggestion,, Leave the earth connection attached .. having cleaned battery contact and made sure that the end of the earth lead  attached to the car is bolted to clean metal and that the end of the lead has been cleaned itself . Fit new piece of wire from battery positive ( on the expectation that the earth is to negative) while connecting the other end to coil positive . take one of the HT leads from the distributor cap and fit to the coil output .(large push fit between smaller connections. fit a new piece of wire to the coil negative connection . Fit a plug to the ht lead now fitted to the coil and touch to a suitable metal surface . (engine or bulkhead )  . Flash the bared end of the wire from coil negative to a similar metal surface . You should see sparks at the plug  as you flash the lead . If so - definitely mis trust the distributor . There are many more ways ....

presuming points ignition - do the following - disconnect the lead from coil to distributor and substitute a new length with bared end connected to the coil at the terminal for the contact breaker. remove the HT lead from the centre terminal on the distributor cap and hold close to a metal surface on the engine . With the ignition on , flash the bared end against a metal surface on the engine . There should be a spark from the HT lead to the engine surface if there is power to the coil . If this is so , then there is a problem in the distributor or rotor head problems of point problems - might be burnt or dirty etc . If nothing .. try connecting the coil direct to the positive terminal on the battery and try to start the car .. (old car thieves trick). Be careful that the coil is not a resistance type if doing this as it would cause it to heat up and could burn it out if connected for more than a very short time ..

Been there - seen it - changed flywheel - problem gone - Starter was always sluggish as a pre-engaged unit ... Installed an old style side brusk inertia starter ..