John Bonnett
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Everything posted by John Bonnett
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I do have the modern thinwall cable Mike but the hassle is attaching the connectors and then pushing the cable back down inside the gearstick. I know I'm hamfisted but it gives me trouble so the column switch seems a heaven sent solution.
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Ah, I'm glad I'm not the only one Brad. I'm really sorry we couldn't meet up while we were over in your neck of the woods. We had an absolutely great time. The hotel Moulin de Ducey was excellent and the highlight of the whole trip had to be Le Parc Floral de Haute Bretagne just near Fougeres. The gardens all 25 of them set in 50 acres were stunning and in our view vastly more impressive even than Monet's which we visited earlier in the week. Hope to catch up before too long.
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I'm not sure why I would need a light Roy. I think you always know when you are in or out of overdrive.
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Can't argue with that Markus 🙂
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I've come to the point where the gear lever mounted overdrive switch and I are going to part company. I have a new switch, top and gear lever harness but when I fitted the tunnel I had a heck of a job getting the connectors to make proper contact with the terminals on the switch and the plastic top would not stay clipped on. It is now held in place with insulating tape. I'm going to fit some new instruments and the speedometer cable will need replacing necessitating the tunnel coming out and of course disturbing the overdrive switch. Rather than go through all that performance again, I'm seriously considering fitting a MK2 GT6 cowl mounted switch which will solve the problem once and for all.
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For the price of a new relay I cannot see the point in trying to resurrect one that's worn out and forty years old.
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Hello Dave, The original relay as is the one you have has a common feed for the coil and the contacts. The lower left wire goes to the horn switch and thence to earth. So when you operate the horn switch you complete the circuit to earth and the click you hear is the closing of the relay contacts. But if there is no power out on the top wire to the horn when the horn switch is operated it does point to a problem with the relay.
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I know that's what they say but I never had a problem with the standard starter on my GT6 and even with 11.4:1 compression on my 1500 engine it cranks it over without any problem. And the great thing is that they are cheap and plentiful.
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Ah, thank you. Now I understand.
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Not very helpful I know but what's wrong with using the standard inertia starter motor apart from a few grammes extra weight?
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You could get it couriered down for not much more than a tenner. I use UPS via Interparcel who are very reliable. Are you certain that the cross piece should be welded in? On my MK3 which had a rear seat the cross piece with the fittings on bolted to brackets welded to the wheel arches. My current car does not have a rear seat but the cross piece bolts in in the same way.
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A real milestone Hazen and a great feeling that I can relate to. Well done.
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Happy days then and all for zero cost. We like that 🙂
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I'm just guessing here but the two torsion bars are out of line and the clamp looks like it is in the middle. I seem to remember on mine the clamp is offset from the centre. I would have thought for them to operate properly the two torsion bars should be in line or parallel with each other. Just a thought and perhaps worth a try.
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Mine doesn't go above 80C. It is an electrical rather than capillary instrument and they are not as accurate. But in this case it could be because the sensor is not fully introduced into the sump as a capillary would be and so it may not be seeing the oil at its actual temperature. I did send the gauge back to have its calibration checked but that made very little difference.
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The tubing itself is 6mm running to a plastic T piece and out through a hole in the valance.
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These are the only pictures Hazen. Although it was in my plans it got forgotten and not remembered until the car was already at the painters. I machined the drain tubes and the painter welded them in. It is a good mod and does work.
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I don't know if there were originally drain holes in the corners of the tailgate aperture but without them water does collect in the corners. So I've put a couple in and they appear to work well. Just in case anyone else might be interested in doing the same; a couple of photos.
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Failing that, I'm sure Mark would make a door skin for you.
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I've set the alternator so that it's in the middle. The crank pulley is in compared with the water pump pulley and the alternator pulley is out from the crank but in from the water pump. Using Danny's measurement I suspect the aftermarket aluminium water pump housing is 4mm too thick.
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We are talking more than shims here Marcus. There's a difference of three or four mms.
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Danny I'm indebted to you; thank you. It is as you say very difficult to get an accurate measurement with the housing in place but a rough indication is 44mm on mine against your 38mm. That would account for the misalignment. regards John
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Thank you so much Danny for taking the trouble to measure up. The water pump measurement is the same as mine. It is in front of the crankshaft pulley by about 4mm. I'm now wondering if the problem is with the aluminium water pump housing. Thank you once again John
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Thank you Danny. If it is not too much trouble could you please measure the distance of the front face of the water pump pulley to the sealing face. And also if it is stamped on the size of the fan belt. With many thanks John
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The water pump is the right one for the 1500 engine and the distance of the front face of the pulley from the sealing face has been verified as correct by another forum member. As for the cracking on the belt, perhaps it was just a rubbish belt. I've now got a Gates replacement. Incidentally, I could not get the 1088 belt on but the 1100 one fitted.