yorkshire_spam

They are probably still trying to find the OBDII/Canbus port so they can plug their diagnostics in.

Looked him up on Facebook and dropped him a message as I'm just down the road in Halifax.

Nice work @Clive

I think @Clive did a comparison but I can't remember whether it was on here or on Sideways (or even somewhere else!) IIRC it was pretty much "you get what you pay for" and the heavy duty Freelander ones were the better bet. I'll have a search and see if I can find the details.

Starting note.... Spitfire MK IV is a 1300, Spitfire 1500 is effectively the MK V (but that's just model pedantry, no really relevant) I came over from the land rover world about 10 years ago when I bought a Spitfire 1500 - my first classic car (land rovers aren't classic cars, they are just old/older land rovers 😉 ) my advice would depend on how handy with the spanners you are etc. Most mechanical stuff is DIY sortable, but I (personally) hate having to sort bodywork out, so I'd go to town with any you look at hunting for rust (usual places, chassis, wings etc.), spend the extra for one with overdrive if you plan on doing any long trips or higher speed roads/motorways. If you are going to thrash the car (driving up alpine passes for example) one with an oil cooler is a good plan if it's a 1500 (1300 not so bad) but these are relatively cheap to buy/fit - so not a massive deal. SEATS are expensive (relatively speaking) to re-trim and re-foam, so a car with decent seats fitted is a bonus. See if you can find an active local group for the club and go along and make new friends - you might find somebody with a Spitfire happy to help you look at possible purchases, or their cars might give you an idea of what to expect?

ooohh no John, my pockets are nowhere near deep enough to be entering motorsport events. Due to time and finance constraints I'll be a spectator!

That's pretty cool John, here's hoping that we get some good classic racing as a result.

I probably have a couple of rear hubs out in the garage, but can't check right now as I'm on a different continent until Sunday.

I would think a GL4 spec gear oil in either ep90 or 80w90 viscosity?

Good to know, thanks @Kevin R

Thanks @Kevin R that's really helpful as I was considering "upgrading" to mohair.

Sorry can't help with the measurements. But I can't help but feel that somebody didn't want to buy one of these at this money! https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/spare-wheel-well-3 😉

Thanks Clive. Not fussy on the lead time etc. just don't want to spend good money on something that's not up to the job.

Hi all. The vinyl hood on the Spitfire has a few holes and is starting to split on the windows... so I'm considering a replacement. Can anyone recommend a specific supplier/maker?

OSF Spitfire suspension painted and assembled (as far as i want to before it's back on the car)

Very true, went out to the garage and everything I touched seemed to go wrong... so I came back in before I broke something or hurt myself

As predicted, I've got a grand total of sod all done. 😞

My plan for this weekend... whether it happens or not is entirely another matter: Paint uprights, brake disc shield and other "sundry items" for the OSF re-assembly on the Spitfire (main suspension parts have been powder coated) Finish welding the chassis and paint the repaired areas Re-assemble, with new brake discs (Delphi) / pads (Mintex 1144) Although the way things have been going I'll start on the welding and probably injure myself or run out of gas, then trip over the paint tins and spill it all.

Handy cross reference for valve sizes, heads etc. : http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/performance_enhancements.htm#Raise_the_Compression_Ratio

Usually something like this: Not sure of the ones specific to the Herald. I've got an untested Herald dynamo in the garage, free if you want it.

I have dot 5 in the Dolomite because it's what the previous owner used. When I drain the system to work on the rear axle I'll be flushing with meths and going back to dot 4. But I'll be checking all the seals etc well after changing over!

I didn't know it existed and now I want one! Damn you! 😉

Does "picking things up from the powder coaters" count as working on the car? 😉

Clive is spot on with this advice, even more critical for a 1500, but still very relevant to a 1300. "bog standard" 20w50 is fine for general usage to even moderate mileage / performance. BUT if you plan some hardcore motoring it's well worth investing in a premium oil, Penrite, Valvoline or Millers performance oils for example.

That'd be pretty boring if I contributed... fixing daughter's modern car, clearing garage out and working.