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yorkshire_spam

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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. yorkshire_spam
    Hey Shaun, car is a running project - it's MOTd taxed and tested, but just been off the road for 3 or 4 weeks while I swapped the gearbox for an OD unit. I know I have some patches to sort out on the back end of the chassis on the OS, but sooner or later I'll have to open the can of worms and sort that rear inner wing out. It'll bug the hell out of me until I do. Might patch/bodge it until I've had some summer use out of the car and then tackle it properly in Autumn. Maybe.
  2. yorkshire_spam
    So, laying under the motor the other night refitting the exhaust I notice that the bit of the rear inner wing on the OS that stick out below the boot floor is looking "manky". So I prod it and most of it falls out. I'm thinking it needs at least the "small" lower repair panel, but how should I go about it.... Strip the WHOLE outer wing off, investigate and take it from there Cut the bottom section off the outer wing, investigate and hope I can get away with the small lower repair sections for both inner and outer wing? Other option I haven't thought of? Cheers, Sam
  3. yorkshire_spam
    Personally I'd get a volt meter and check that the green feed wire (plain green, no trace colour) has 12V (or thereabouts) on it when the ignition is on. Does the reversing light work? The if there's a feed via the green, I'd switch off, and start looking at continuity across the switches in various gears - one should "work" when you are in reverse, the other (IIRC) in 3rd and 4th
  4. yorkshire_spam
    Well, two possibilities - The retaining pins used in Land Rover brake pads - a little loose on the sleeve in the release arm, but the shoulder on the end of the pin stops it dropping all the way through. Second option, found an old bolt with a really long shank, just the right diameter for the sleeve in the arm So I recon the bolt is the preferred option - with the threaded part cut off it should be about the right length. Thanks for the reassurance Nick, was beginning to wonder why 0% of the gearboxes I'd encountered had them!
  5. yorkshire_spam
    The bit that should be "inside" here - Is missing on BOTH my gearboxes - the one I got with an OD didn't have it, so I thought "oh well I'll use the one from the existing box". So this evening I examine the box I've just removed and there isn't one there either! So what happens to 129410 ? Do they evaporate or something? Is there a reason why neither of my 'boxes have it?
  6. yorkshire_spam
    Just out of interest, anyone know the part number for the mounting plate for a J-Type overdrive on a a single rail box? Is it TKC1407     O/D MOUNTING PLATE - SPIT 1500 ? http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/spitfire1500overdrivemountingdetails.html&xsl=diagram.xsl&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/spitfire1500.html&category=engine
  7. yorkshire_spam
    I'm not tight, short arms and deep pockets is my problem.
  8. yorkshire_spam
    I'm going through that process on my 1500 Spit at the moment - I'm just picking a section at a time, splitting the live feed over a series of fuses and patching in new wires. I started with this http://www.andystanton.co.uk/spitfire/wiring.jpg And so far I've got to this: Dunno about how the '69 is wired though.
  9. yorkshire_spam
    Nice neat work Falcon!
  10. yorkshire_spam
    That's a nice neat set-up. I'm planning to fuse the lights and introduce relays into the headlamp circuits so that they can be uprated and maybe put a "master" fuse in both the perm. live and live on ignition circuits. With 4 relays and 12 fuses I should just about have enough. Your positioning looks more accessible than mine, but I'm not happy about having mine under bonnet without them having a lid/casing.
  11. yorkshire_spam
    I shoved a post on my blog last night - I've been prototyping a new fuse/relay holder for the Spitfire http://yorkshire-spitfire.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/prototype-fuserelay-box.html Before I go much further with it - I'd appreciate any constructive criticism from wiser and more experienced people! Cheers, Sam
  12. yorkshire_spam
    Double double check the rocker shaft orientations - at least one source gives the markings the WRONG WAY. I can't remember if it's haynes or not - but it is possible to get them the wrong way round.
  13. yorkshire_spam
    Wouldn't be without an active mask - wish I'd bought one years ago, couldn't believe how much easier it made things!
  14. yorkshire_spam
    Thanks Anthony - I'll get some scraps together and try it!
  15. yorkshire_spam
    Hi Danny, until I get to tuning I don't know, I'll take the tops off the carbs and have a look ASAP.
  16. yorkshire_spam
    Thanks Shaun. 1/8th plate and bloody loads of AMPs - I know where I stand. Nasty thin stuff....gah.... sooner or later I'm gonna end up blowing holes in it!
  17. yorkshire_spam
    First time I've ever welded anything that thin, putting a patch on the bonnet/wing (http://yorkshire-spitfire.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/worse-than-wiring-bodywork.html) Scares the hell out of me doing "delicate" stuff like that, but I guess it could have turned out worse. One of these days I might get to do something other than wiring and bodywork! ;)
  18. yorkshire_spam
    Not cheap...... http://www.tracytools.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_3&product_id=74
  19. yorkshire_spam
    Ooooh. 9/16 - 26 = British standard cycle thread I think http://www.motalia.com/Html/Charts/cycle_chart.html
  20. yorkshire_spam
    26tpi - that's more than (even) UNEF (24tpi).... sounds like an oddity!
  21. yorkshire_spam
    Thanks Scott, sounds like AAQ are the right ones to try!
  22. yorkshire_spam
    Running the standard twin HS4 on my 1500. It has a Bell exhaust and K&N filters. Any suggestions for what carb needles I should have fitted? AAT ? AAQ? Opinions? Cheers, Sam
  23. yorkshire_spam
    Available to order according to their website RKC3305     CAMSHAFT - SPITFIRE 1500     £104.45     EACH     OUT OF STOCK, AVAILABLE TO ORDER     
  24. yorkshire_spam
    I tend to play it safe with things like brakes. Took a lot of advice before I did it - once I'd done it that way I never went back to mucking around trying to get seals and pistons to fit with the calliper in 1 piece. BUT always made sure I had spare gallery seals before splitting them. YMMV and all the usual disclaimers re: safety and brake systems apply.
  25. yorkshire_spam
    Dunno about in Triumph land, but when I've done Landy callipers I've bought a couple of spare gallery seals and split the calliper to make it easier to get the pistons out/seals in.
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