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yorkshire_spam

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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam

  1. yorkshire_spam
    Bolton..... dangerously close to Pendle and Pennine.... I expect the P+P mafia will be along any second to persuade you to attend their meetings! ;-)
  2. yorkshire_spam
    "To what end" well in my case the idea of reinforcing a potentially weak area of the car was interesting. Also the idea that I might be able to do something that meant I didn't have to shell out significant money to repair something.
  3. yorkshire_spam
    Since the threaded "peg" at the bottom of the front upright (the bit that snaps off) is hollow to allow lubrication - how dumb would it be to thread that hole, screw in a HT bolt and then lubricate with something like the "one shot" swivel grease from a land rover? Not that I'd ever do it... jut wondering how bad and dumb it would be?
  4. yorkshire_spam
    I was considering using "one shot swivel grease" from a Land Rover for mine.... since that is an application that was originally specified EP90 and now uses a grease I was "guessing" that the grease might be good for trunnions.
  5. yorkshire_spam
    Thanks Gaz, as soon as you mentioned it the "penny" dropped - the spacers are firmly wedged in the top of the stats. I'll rip em out and fettle it. Then richen it up a smidgen. Serves me right for reading the yankee PDF version of the waxstat conversion.... which doesn't mention the button and just says that using two uk pennys will leave the mixture wrong.
  6. yorkshire_spam
    Spacer button? I didn't see that - that would explain why it's so bloody rich! I've missed a bit! ;-)
  7. yorkshire_spam
    michael_charlton wrote:Yorkshire tip...............use old unwanted one cent (euro) pieces or US one cent pieces...............cos you may need the UK pennies to buy an eclair ;D Thanks for the tip Mike, I was actually trying to figure out if the washers I have would be worth less than the 1p pieces for equivalent width.... but Euro or US cent coins would be a lower value than 1p.
  8. yorkshire_spam
    3106 wrote:Sorry - waxstat? Unique to SU(s) or Strommies, too? No idea if the Strommies made the waxstat mistake or if it's just SU lunacy. Basically the position of the jet is spring-loaded and at the base is the "waxstat" - the temp. varies the thickness of the waxstat varying the mixture. Anyhooo.... I took the big step of investing the 4p in de-waxstating the jets. So I guess I now need a retune because the mixture is now nothing like what it was before..... (I guess the 2p per stat is not quite the same as the "cold" position of the waxstat)
  9. yorkshire_spam
    hmmmm 4p ? That's a serious investment. Sounds like it might be a bit cheaper than the Canley conversion kit though. Although having said that I guess everyone is going to say I need a decent heatshield anyway whether I sort the waxstats or not?
  10. yorkshire_spam
    michael_charlton wrote:Waxstat ...get rid Have you got a s/s heat shield behind the carbs? The usual fuel evaporation sounds the culprit There's a manky silver painted bit of cardboard at the back of the carbs - does that count? ;-)
  11. yorkshire_spam
    The 1500 Spitfire ran great this morning on the way to work and no problems at all at lunch time when I nipped out. BUT on the way home this evening on the motorway the temp managed to creep just above normal (normal operation seems to see the temp needle vertical, tonight it was about a needle's width above that - not climbing toward the red or even the 3/4 mark - but above normal) And then it started to misfire. Badly. At one point I thought I had a fuel leak it stank that bad. Which pushed the temp up by about another needle's width on the gauge. Pulling the choke out seemed to alleviate the problem of the misfire. I'm thinking maybe the tuning is a little weak and the nasty 'orrible waxstat jets are making it even worse when it's hot. Other options? Any advice? I twiddled the ignition timing slightly at the weekend - so I guess I should double double double check that before I launch into anything else?
  12. yorkshire_spam
    Mine isn't attached, it tucks under the floor pan carpets once in place.
  13. yorkshire_spam
    Unless something else is wrong (points, dizzy drive etc) then you are right, it should just be a case of turning the dizzy (after slackening the clamp!)
  14. yorkshire_spam
    Looking at the wiring diagram - the feed to the "lights" fuse, is piggy backed off the feed to the "always live" (brown) fuse - so if they are both gone I'd check the line between the solenoid and the first fuse (big brown wire!)
  15. yorkshire_spam
    Dunno which is top/middle/bottom, but: brown fed fuse is "always live" (horn, interior light etc) red fed fuse is side/tail lights white fed fuse is "live on ignition" (indicators, instruments etc)
  16. yorkshire_spam
    Unless something has been added that's about it - 3 bulkhead fuses. Good voltage at the battery? White is "usually" live on ignition IIRC (On a 1500 it is anyway)
  17. yorkshire_spam
    Anyone got a couple that they can spare off an old tunnel? Turns out I have 2 missing. :-( Would be annoying to have to order from Canleys or wherever just for 2 little bits of metal! Beer tokens or a pint at the next P+P meeting I make it to?
  18. yorkshire_spam
    Although I prefer the looks of the earlier Spits and GT6 I deliberately bought the 1500 last summer because it had 12 months MOT and was a running project candidate - going for the 1500 kept it in budget but allowed me to get a runner. I've already massively enjoyed the driving I've had out of it since getting it. Gently getting it ready for the 2014 RBRR... adding the overdrive this month was another step in that plan.
  19. yorkshire_spam
    Hey Shaun, car is a running project - it's MOTd taxed and tested, but just been off the road for 3 or 4 weeks while I swapped the gearbox for an OD unit. I know I have some patches to sort out on the back end of the chassis on the OS, but sooner or later I'll have to open the can of worms and sort that rear inner wing out. It'll bug the hell out of me until I do. Might patch/bodge it until I've had some summer use out of the car and then tackle it properly in Autumn. Maybe.
  20. yorkshire_spam
    So, laying under the motor the other night refitting the exhaust I notice that the bit of the rear inner wing on the OS that stick out below the boot floor is looking "manky". So I prod it and most of it falls out. I'm thinking it needs at least the "small" lower repair panel, but how should I go about it.... Strip the WHOLE outer wing off, investigate and take it from there Cut the bottom section off the outer wing, investigate and hope I can get away with the small lower repair sections for both inner and outer wing? Other option I haven't thought of? Cheers, Sam
  21. yorkshire_spam
    Personally I'd get a volt meter and check that the green feed wire (plain green, no trace colour) has 12V (or thereabouts) on it when the ignition is on. Does the reversing light work? The if there's a feed via the green, I'd switch off, and start looking at continuity across the switches in various gears - one should "work" when you are in reverse, the other (IIRC) in 3rd and 4th
  22. yorkshire_spam
    Well, two possibilities - The retaining pins used in Land Rover brake pads - a little loose on the sleeve in the release arm, but the shoulder on the end of the pin stops it dropping all the way through. Second option, found an old bolt with a really long shank, just the right diameter for the sleeve in the arm So I recon the bolt is the preferred option - with the threaded part cut off it should be about the right length. Thanks for the reassurance Nick, was beginning to wonder why 0% of the gearboxes I'd encountered had them!
  23. yorkshire_spam
    The bit that should be "inside" here - Is missing on BOTH my gearboxes - the one I got with an OD didn't have it, so I thought "oh well I'll use the one from the existing box". So this evening I examine the box I've just removed and there isn't one there either! So what happens to 129410 ? Do they evaporate or something? Is there a reason why neither of my 'boxes have it?
  24. yorkshire_spam
    Just out of interest, anyone know the part number for the mounting plate for a J-Type overdrive on a a single rail box? Is it TKC1407     O/D MOUNTING PLATE - SPIT 1500 ? http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/spitfire1500overdrivemountingdetails.html&xsl=diagram.xsl&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/spitfire1500.html&category=engine
  25. yorkshire_spam
    I'm not tight, short arms and deep pockets is my problem.
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