yorkshire_spam

cliftyhanger wrote:Which exhaust do you have? My toledo almost failed a year ago (it was within 1 db of the limit) so this time I made a small additional "silencer". Basically a flap of metal that could be attacked with an exhaust clamp to the outlet, and the flap lowered (increasing backpressure and silencing) Crude but effective. db killers available on the bay too, similar method of working. of course, this year it passed easily. Unless your exhaust is a loud one, you should be ok. It's a bell twin exit and it seems LOUD to me.

Any idea how I can get a noise level check? Wouldn't want to book it and lose my money due to an overly loud exhaust!

Just a little plain engine oil down the bores My list... but I may forget things.... Coolant system connected up, fill with water top up once it's running. Starter motor wired up HT/LT Electrics (dizzy, plugs etc) Fuel plumbed up to fuel pump (even if it's from a jerry can on the floor rather than the tank) Choke connected Oil checked - change if the least bit suspect. Anything rusty sorted (like the rockers etc.) and rocker cover fitted. Connect the exhaust if you can, otherwise you'll either deafen or gas yourself (unless you are outside) Turn over by hand and make sure everything is nice and free (nice clean engine oil down the bore first!) Others hopefully will come along and point out the stuff I've missed/forgotten.

Most of the CT stuff seems to be a bit "down south" but I'd certainly like to do a track day with fellow Triumphers up north.

That's pretty much what mine looked like when I rebuilt the starter recently.

Check your coolant too! (or at least check that you have some!) Oooooh also, worth trying to turn the engine over by hand and if it's not run for ages you might want to take the plugs out and run a little fresh engine oil down into the bores - don't want to wind those pistons up and down too much in the cylinders with no lubrication. The reason I suggest getting somebody to look at it is that viewing it would spot the obvious whereas trying to diagnose over the internet is not easy. By all means do the work yourself!

You are going to need to re-fit the dizzy and HT, then do the timing - there's tons of stuff on t'internet on how to do it... If there's rust in the rocker assembly then you have a cleaning up job to do. Rust floating round in the oil will make a fantastic abrasive/grinding paste (pretty much the last thing you need!) You could probably do with finding another Triumpher or Petrol Head in your area to take a look over things and give you a to-do list for what needs sorting before you get it running.

I'm considering taking the Spitfire 1500 to a track day in 2013 - somewhere reasonably ooop north like Elvington or Oulton. Since I've never been to a track day before - what advice can you guys offer?

Do you know if the engine was running before it was laid up? Do you know if things like the carbs/distributor has been worked on/disturbed since it was laid up? IF it's not been messed with.... it should start. If it has been messed with you have some prep work to do in terms of points gaps, plug gaps, static timing and some rough guesses on setting the carbs. Oh and checking that the HT leads are correctly connected! Yes... if possible extract the old fuel (usual warnings/cautions apply) To start with personally I'd turn it over on the starter without the coil connected to get the oil pressure up. I'd also be tempted if you get it started to lay out for new oil, filter (oil+air), plugs, points and condenser.  

Great result. easy fix too once you get some new brushes!

Fingers crossed!

Ok checked with a reputable retailer of minilite wheels who have confirmed that I should have wheel nuts with a 60 deg taper. Which is fine, because the standard nuts available for the 12mm studs I intend to use are in fact 60 deg taper nuts

I thought the tapers were right, but I've seen a few things (on t'internet - so probably all lies!) about using nuts with a stepped profile to locate the wheels.

My '78 Spitfire is currently sitting on what look like 8 spoke minilite alloys. The current wheel nuts have a tapered seat - since I intend to uprate the studs to 12mm I'll be buying new nuts to go with - can anyone confirm that the ones with the tapered seat are the right type for these wheels?

I think the TR6 uses the same Lucas LRS101/M35G/M35J starter motor as the Spitfire(s) You could try taking it apart? They are not the most complicated devices. You can get the parts to re-bush/re-brush them for about a tenner off eBay etc. http://www.handyhowie.co.uk/handyhowie/Spitfire_Starter_Motor.html Unfortunately I'm nowhere near Essex, if I was I'd offer to take a look at it for you.

I agree - don't panic - any condensation/moisture in the rocker cover can lead to emulsion especially in cold weather. Also - white steam/smoke - mine does that a lot until it warms up properly. So although it /might/ be a head gasket issue I wouldn't rush to that conclusion.

max reasonable load + a bit? P = IV (power = current * voltage) So if you have 2x55 watt headlamps 110 = I * 12 or... I= 110/12 = 9.1A load, so call it a 15A fuse. Does that make it worse or better?

The only difference between me and boys is the price of their toys. ;-)

Confirmed. It's the battery - everyone who said "it's the battery" can now be totally smug and say "we told you so!" I fitted the spare battery (terminals wrong way round, but it fits) and it turns over fantastically fast, Mike - since it's not urgent I'll probably sort that battery out with you - will PM you soon. Thanks Guys! You kept me calm and stopped me rushing out and jumping to the wrong conclusion about my engine!

I'm kinda thinking that using the Spitfire as a daily car for 6 months before the RBRR might be a good plan!

Starting to think the battery is the issue  - stripped the starter back off the motor and tried it on a spare battery that I charged overnight in the garage - it kicked and flew round as I'd expect. I can JUST turn the front pulley by hand on the engine, so I guess it's not seized (managed to trap my finger between the pulley and the steering rack though as it went round - swore a bit!)

I guess I'll get the starter back off, get it free rotates, check the engine rotates ok and then look at a decent battery etc. sort the electricals (assuming the engine turns over ok)

junkuser wrote:What does the engine feel like if you turn it over using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt? If I had a spanner big enough I'd try it! ;-) Even my adjustable isn't that big. So I'm gonna pick up a socket the right size tomorrow and give it a try!

Hmmm good point Richard I did run the starter before I fitted it to the car, but thinking about it, it didn't kick that hard or run that fast. Hmmmmmm. More to think about.

thebrookster wrote:Can you stick your voltmeter on the battery, and see what voltage it is putting out as well?? Whilst it is looking like something else might be the issue, the more information you can give us the more we can argue needlessly over  :P :P TBH, I am still unconvinced the engine is going to be causing the issues, as you said in your original post it initially was having problems starting when cold, but was fine when warmed up. I would have expected the opposite, if something was jamming in the engine it should be worse when all the metal has heated up and expanded!! I may well be barking up the wrong tree, but that is my thinking currently. I'll see about getting a volt meter on it tomorrow evening. I've thrown the tools down in disgust for today. I'm happy to be convinced that it's something other than the engine.... something cheaper is always preferable! Never had trouble starting when warm before, but now I can't get it started no matter what. Very annoying.