yorkshire_spam
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Everything posted by yorkshire_spam
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There's a mahoosive tall seal running across the front under the bonnet - sounds like it might be the wrong one. (Wouldn't surprise me in the light of the other "restoration" things done to the poor car!)
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Any ideas why the bonnet sticks up in the middle? Is it mal-adjusted or just out of shape?
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Who's got what to do for 2014?
yorkshire_spam replied to AlanChatterton's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
cook1e wrote:Another important bit of prep work for the RBRR completed, I've agreed with the ex Missus that she'll have the Kids for the weekend..... Without this I'd have to take an 11 and 13 year old along on the run! I may, or may not have that particular piece of prep to do..... need to check the dates, but I can't see how I'm going to get me, co-driver and 2 kids in a Spitfire if she doesn't agree! Also have a gearbox rebuild and a hardtop refurb to complete before we do the run! -
Dunno about trumph alternators, but a dim/intermittent charge light experience on a Land Rover (about 3 times over the years) always led to what appeared to be a working alternator packing up within about a month of every day usage.
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There are different brackets, I think the "lower" bracket for the brake master is correct for the 1500, that's how mine is: http://yorkshire-spitfire.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/mixed-up-things.html
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Take a deep breath and sit down Gaz before following the link.... http://www.harlandsharp.com/tr4_spitfire_tr6.htm
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Howard wrote:I want to drive a route something like the one shown on the attached map (courtesy of Google maps). Using the Harwich - Esjbjerg ferry it would take considerably longer than a 10CR and with the three ferries it would cost more as well but it would be a wonderful adventure on totally new roads. Perhaps we could get a small group together - like the very first 10CR - and have a trial run? Cheers Howard Before I got rid of the 110 I was planning to do a very similar route in a Land Rover!
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I ended up welding half a land rover wheel nut onto my sump plug to get it out. :-(
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8017 wrote:You bought something like these I guess http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Freelander-Wheel-Stud-M12x1-5-63mm-long-/370630705642?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AFreelander&hash=item564b4fc1ea Like those, but not the same. I got them from AllMakes - the AllMakes ones have the shamfer on the shoulder - so they fit right in the Triumph hubs.
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Are the Ford ones the right spline size/pitch? I went for Freelander because they had imperial splines, but metric threads - I would have expected the Ford ones to be metric both ends?
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I'm running freelander (Allmakes) studs with these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280742016326&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 Like this:
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Might be worth checking the float for pin-holes? If the float sinks then the grose-jet will stay open and the chamber will over-flow.
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Double check you have the right parts - I bought a superflex kit which had all the right parts in except the rear trailing arm bushes which were the wrong size. Must polyurethane bushes should go in/out fairly easy with a vice (mostly based on land rovers I admit)
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http://www.paddockspares.com/rtc3867-wiper-motor.html Any use? Dunno if it's the right one.
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From a quick google search: " The volvo and many others used the AUC1310 chamber while the MGC used a AUD 2140. The difference is in the mounting hole. The hole on the Volvo type chamber is app 5/16" lower on the body . This in turn mounts the float 5/16 higher than the C chamber. This floods the carb unless you adjust for the increased height." My 1500 Spitfire has AUD2140 chambers.
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Hi Alex, It was just a thought ref. the float chambers - I know there are 2 types that look identical at first glance but 1 mounts slightly higher than the other. But if they are both AUD2140 (or both whatever the other number is) then I guess that's not it. w.r.t. fuel levels etc. I'm afraid I'm pretty new to tuning the HS4 myself.... I'm just going by articles like: http://www.mgexp.com/article/su-tune.html Best of luck!
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Are the float chambers the same? Maybe somebody fitted the washer to compensate for having odd float chambers?
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Having gone through the same thing myself.... look out for a "reasonably priced" (where that is defined by your pocket!) "full kit". You want (based on my experience doing a single rail 1500 swap) : overdrive gearbox mounting (incl lower plate) speedo angle drive and cable propshaft gearstick incl O/D switch and wiring I started to think about collecting the bits over a period of time, but came to the conclusion if I did that I'd probably end up spending more!
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Keep going Wim. It must seem like a total hassle right now, but it'll be worth it in the end!
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Wim I did a rear set of studs recently with not much bother. If you have access to a hub puller it should be no problem. If you go for it find a supplier of allmakes brand studs. They have the correct shamfer on them. (see my blog for pics of them fitted to a rear hub. ) I think I paid about 0.80ukp per stud+delivery.
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I can't edit the first post, but the contact set should be RTC 3288 ,the forum turned an 8 and a ) into 8) http://www.lrseries.com/ are great as you can search on the "new" land rover part number OR the old BL part number.
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I wanted to try and get a condenser locally rather than wait for one through the post. (And I'm too lazy to drive all the way to the local Moss branch) So I went to a Land Rover spares place GSC118 (Triumph condenser part number) is equivalent to RTC6621 (Land Rover) - and cost me about £1.50 (and for further reference, contact set GCS118 is RTC3288) So I guess the moral is if we Triumphers get stuck for parts locally try your Land Rover parts stockist.
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I like COMMA oils. They even do it in retro-metal cans round here!
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bxbodger wrote:not a unit with nothing more than a blow over of paint. Ahhh the magic properties of reconditioning paint. It's amazing how a coat of yellow paint turns a knackered old JCB into a reconditioned JCB. :-(
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My motor wouldn't start last year. I rebuilt the lucas motor and changed the battery - it now turns over like you would not believe. I wouldn't even begin to consider replacing it with a hi-torque or anything like that now I've seen how a lucas starter in good condition with a good battery performs. (Although if I made compression modifications etc. that might change!)
