Has it had new door skins at any time as I found some of these a bit short in height leaving a larger gap for the window. Probably the best solution would be a wider weather strip to bridge the gap.
They don't fit, the 1147 has 11 head studs later 10. I suppose someone could have drilled the block. The 1147 8 port heads have a couple of very short studs under the inlet ports
or use the whole 1500 flywheel and clutch. I can't remember if the mk4 uses the same flywheel bolts as the 1500 but you can get inserts if the mk4 uses smaller bolts.
Yes that is the voltage stabiliser and it looks right for a mk2 spit this wiring looks the same as my mk2 anyway. This gives a 10v feed to the fuel and temperature gauges. The 2 o-rings on the gear extension kit are seals for where the rod passes through extension housing. It can be a pig to get the remote rod out of the extension though the small bolt holding the actuator bit on is often very tight
Triumph supplied belts where the black Britax Excelsior push button statics with a Stanpart Label but as has been stated up until 68-69 belts were not fitted at the factory. From 65 on they had to have the floor mount points and then in 69 cars had to be retrofitted if they had the mount points. Most cars of this period therefore have aftermarket belts by Britax, Kangol etc. A Mk2 Gt6 would probably have had the Stanpart Britax ones but it does depend on year My aftermarket Britax Excelsior are due back from quickfit-SBS tomorrow after a reweb and new brackets. I have also got Stanpart labels to stick on in place of the Britax ones. Total cost about £120. original look https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/14064.....974959912&crdt=0
Not a bad price at all, it cost me way more to recon my 1147 and really nothing wrong with the mk4 1300 particularly if it is an early one with the mk3 profile cam, though not sure how you would know with a recon unit. I would make sure everything gets a good squirt of oil and a turn over by hand though as it has been sitting a long time
I would look for the rocker feed oil hole as that is only at the back. If that is at both ends then it doesn't matter which way up. I put a thin smear of sealant around this hole as they can leak oil.
did you put the bleed nipple on top? if not it will be very hard to bleed. As you have just done the hydraulics it is likely a problem with these. Also though check for wear in the pivot pin and holes at the top of the clutch pedal and also check that the clutch arm pin hasn't fallen out (drivers side bell housing if RHD)