stevegt6

reading this post makes me want to start again..........or.........buy another one  8) I'll finish this one first and get it running proper on the road......then buy another  :) Keep going Dan..!

Yep...pie land  :)

Marc - Haven't actually used them yet.... Only been to the unit and had chat (took seats with me so they could see what they were going to be working to). He was about 3/4's done on the second TR6 seat (mentioned above) when i was there, and the finished one looked really good. They were going to use my original covers as a template for the new and allow for any little personal changes - eg; if you wanted higher sides to base for additional support etc... I am going to be taking my seats to them in next week or two, so if you want to wait and have a look at mine finished before you makes your choice, that is ok - www.trimmenduz.com (website is basic) Boss man is called Phil and his Dad still does a bit too.

I got a quote from a local trimmers (took my original seats/frames inc occasional rear seat...GT6 mk3) for them all to be fully re-furb'd...foams/frames/covers ...When he told me price, i couldn't believe how reasonable (about 650 iirc) for leather and a suede type (not alcantara) center. Both seats and the rear and all covers made/cut in the shop...!! (and pretty much whatever colour you could want) He was doing a pair of TR6 seats at that time in black leather piped in blue and they looked really nice. This was a couple of months after I got a price from NC for just the 2 front seats in plain black vinyl for £900..!!!  ??) Got to get round to getting them done soon, so will let you know when/once its happening - although what are supposed to be temporary 'retro style classic buckets' are very comfy  :)

lol.....i can vaguely recall it being warmish...in the distant past when i last drove one... I have doubled up the foil backed stuff on the tunnel and will be putting something on bulkhead inside and few bits where i can in engine bay to help.

Temp is stable - well, same points on the gauge at least when stat (88) opens and will just sit there going up to the 'next marking' on gauge...fan kicks and drops back to centre/halfway mark ans so on.... For my info, i will borrow friends temp reader - at least then will have clearer idea of the 'actual' temps Its been a while since played with a real engine - last decade has been land rover diesels where your toolbox consists of 4 spanners, a hammer, bigger hammer, big bar, bigger bar and angle grinder...lol and nothing was ever 'hot' At least i know the 6's heater will be like toast in winter :) It would appear things are pretty normal then :) Thanks for replies

Maybe its because its been that long since used one of these (2 spitfires and another GT6 previously....over decade ago)....the only other bonnet i really go under is my 110 - dont bother with the Alfa as cant see anything under there anyway..!! Think i will relocate coil though, up onto bulkhead - not sure why i didnt do that to start with... S

Evening - OK, everything seems to be progressing towards the MOT (which is nice)...but a question about temps... Fully rebuilt engine, bottom to top, all bits well oiled on assumbly etc.. and engine turned regular (over 12 months) before wiring in etc to fire up. Engine runs, but does need timing proper and carbs tuning better etc...(just a bit lumpy) - But it does run what i think is very hot and quite quick to get there. Gets to 1/2 way on temp gauge in under 10 mins (stationary, as not road legal yet....no widscreen for one) elec fan kicks in just a smidge past 1/2 and drops temp a little. Is is because engine still a bit 'tight'...? Everything around engine get super hot too.... I know out on road there will be a forced cooling, so to speak - Am i over worrying...??? Cheers S

if its any consolation, i've been at mine on and off since year 2000 - although mine is nearing 'on-the-road' 😎 Plenty of knowledge on here....and if we dont know, we'll just make it up or take the pi$$ 😀 Good luck..!

What a project......insane or mad...lol - Bravo..!! Keep up the tempo

8940 wrote:Thanks for the photo's stevegt ,( any more ?) ,.....I think i could live with that .....maybe i've found the answer to owning a gt6 now , More pics on another thread...  :)

In the beginning, i thought about de-seaming the rear tail and wings - but would have been quite costly to be done properly. There will be some more pics when i sort out: i) how to get them small enough in file size ii) how to post multiple pics in one post - get a big fat 'zero results' on forum search for adding photos

Have thought about that Shaun - all the edging trim is going to be either satin or matt black though - can be done once all done if go down that road... Got to sort led lighting for reg plate on rear

Hopefully you can all see pic... it was dark when got home, so this is a couple of weeks ago - not that there has been much progress since lol

As long as number plate is lit, as above, i believe to be ok... All down to personal taste i guess - i am still deciding if to go without the front bumper too on my mk3 I will try to post a pic of mine without rear bumper when get home - mine is white and gone for no bumper at rear...where the bolt holes are on side and rear, I intend to do 'fill' with stainless button heads (with rubber washers).....then i can still fit later if so wish (or sell......did i just type that lol)

ok...ordered new seals with the clip recesses - from JP's....cant think why i didnt get the others from there... Anyway, lets hope they make for easier work when they arrive  :)

ok...ordered new seals with the clip recesses - from JP's....cant think why i didnt get the others from there... Anyway, lets hope they make for easier work when they arrive  :)

Helpful piccie, thanks... I have same clips, but my seals do not have any depressions/recesses ....and i think this set of seals was from CC's - but not 100% New set of seal then from another supplier in first instance....rather than try and trim out recesses myself (bound to go wrong that one) I have done same with glass. Cheers Steve

Helpful piccie, thanks... I have same clips, but my seals do not have any depressions/recesses ....and i think this set of seals was from CC's - but not 100% New set of seal then from another supplier in first instance....rather than try and trim out recesses myself (bound to go wrong that one) I have done same with glass. Cheers Steve

Morning... Need help Cannot get the clips over the seal enough to bite properly and keep seal where it should be... I have the appropriate tool, but maybe i am just trying it in wrong way or something... Last attempt ended in drivers door having to be painted again  :( I have the correct clips (checked several times) - but to me, the clips used for the inner seal seem much better and easy to install. Any help very much appreciated Cheers Steve

Morning... Need help Cannot get the clips over the seal enough to bite properly and keep seal where it should be... I have the appropriate tool, but maybe i am just trying it in wrong way or something... Last attempt ended in drivers door having to be painted again  :( I have the correct clips (checked several times) - but to me, the clips used for the inner seal seem much better and easy to install. Any help very much appreciated Cheers Steve

Well, i have working lights... the thicker brown was actually brown/red. One question though - when switching on high beam, should the stalk be flicked to the up position (dipped - the stalk in the lower position) cant remember.... Cheers Steve

It would be a waste of ST-ST bolts imo - they are not on show and not subject to rain/salt etc... FYI: Strength Specifications of Metric Threaded Fasteners The following table describes the strength specifications for the different property classes of metric steel bolts, screws and studs: Property Class     Nominal Size Range (mm)     Proof Strength (MPa)     Yield Strength, min(MPa)     Tensile Strength, min(MPa)     Material 4.6     5-100     225     240     400     Low or medium carbon steel 4.8     1.6-16     310     340     420     Low or medium carbon steel; fully or partially annealed 5.8     5-24     380     420     520     Low or medium carbon steel; cold worked 8.8     Under 16 (incl.)     660     640     800     Medium carbon steel; quenched and tempered 8.8     17-72     580     660     830     Medium carbon steel; quenched and tempered 9.8     1.6-16     650     720     900     Medium carbon steel; quenched and tempered 10.9     5-100     830     940     1040     Alloy steel; quenched and tempered 12.9     1.6-100     970     1100     1220     Alloy steel; quenched and tempered The tensile strength or ultimate tensile strength can be defined as the maximum amount of tensile stress that a component can withstand before it fractures. The proof strength can be defined as the maximum amount of tensile stress that a component can withstand before it begins to exhibit plastic or permanent deformation on release of the stress applied. The yield strength can be defined as the amount of tensile stress that a component can withstand when it exhibits 0.2% plastic or permanent deformation. The property class is normally stamped on the head of the bolt. The two figures indicate the tensile and yield strengths of the bolt or screw. In the case of a 8.8 grade bolt the first figure signifies that the Tensile Strength is at least 800MPa. The second figure signifies that the fastener will begin to yield at 80% of the Ultimate Tensile Strength, i.e. at least 640MPa. Strength Specifications of Stainless Steel Threaded Fasteners The following table, taken from BS EN ISO 3506, describes the strength characteristics of different grades of austenitic stainless steel bolts, screws and studs: Steel Grade     Property Class     Nominal Size Range (mm)     Tensile Strength, min(MPa)     0.2% Proof Stress (MPa) A1,A2,A3,A4,A5     50     Under 39 (incl.)     500     210 70     Under 24 (incl.)     700     450 80     Under 24 (incl.)     800     600 Stainless steel fasteners do not exhibit a yield stress. In this case 0.2% proof stress is used instead, and can be defined as the tensile stress required for the component to exhibit elongation of 0.2%.

OK....so, based on above... Blue/Red (stalk) - Blue/Red (Harness) Blue/White (Stalk) - Blue/White (Harness) Brown (Stalk) - Blue (Harness) Thin Brown (Stalk) - Purple (Harness) Anyone disagree..... worse case scenario is blown fuse - not death lol. Purple/Black (Harness) - Horn...to be determined yet

Afternoon All Getting ever closer to being on the road....  8) :P 8) Wiring in relays for headlights at weekend....but need a little help with connecting the stalk wires to loom wires... I have the following: Loom: Blue/white (high) Blue/red (dipped) Purple (12v) Blue (from dash switch) Purple/black (horn) Stalk: Blue/white (high) Blue/red (dipped) Brown ...? Thin Brown....? Know these connections (obviously) Blue/white to Blue/white Blue/red to Blue/red Unsure on the following: Blue (dash switch) connects to Blue/red also ...??? Purple (12v) connects to thicker brown ...??? Purple/black (horn connects to Thin brown...??? Amazingly, i have managed all the other wiring (i think.....some not actually tested yet) Thanks Steve