stevegt6
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Everything posted by stevegt6
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It would appear the best solution is to drive fast and not stop ;D
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3106 wrote:I have the manual from Bentley - pretty extensive! Very good, but were talkin' Triumphs here :P
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A lot is hidden yes, but there's the arches and the footwells. No pics of red carpet anyone.....
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I've always had mine fitted on engine side of rad - keeps air flow to the max through rad.....fitting fan on front of rad will block about 15-20% in surface area. Just my thinking anyways :)
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Going to get couple (more) of samples from NC - seem to have mis-placed previous ones and cannot remember what they were like... I'm erring toward molded at the moment... Probably going to use the dense self-adhesive bitumen foil faced stuff as an underlay - it may add about half a kilo, but can live with that 🙂 Think it will deaden sound and vibration better than foam or felt....and its only about 2mm thick so shouldn't give issue with molded carpets. Current thinking anyway. Anyone fitted Red carpet in a white car..... If so, post pic please 🙂 Cheers
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cook1e wrote:Also, if you are trying to rebuild to absolute original for concours then John Tomason's Guide to Spitfire and GT6 originality is superb reference book. Yes, good book - But there is a black & white photo with accompanying note which references a Green cable ;D Original workshop manual and haynes. Also, This here forum is a great manual :) Electronic versions are good to print off and make scribbles etc.. plus you can laminate diagrams for reference and doesn't matter if you spill oil, coffee or beer over them :)
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Typically bearings, yes. 1.6mm is quite a bit.... New prop sounds like your 'normal' sort - uj each end and sliding splined joint. Hope it does the trick
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9325 wrote:All sorted, just needed a bit of persuasion ;) Lol.... I originally got one of the black plastic ones from CCs, but swapped it for fibreglass one as the plastic one was never going to fit - Ever.....not sure if rogue batch or not, but the f'glass fitted almost glove-like and is a lot more sturdy and you can repair it easy too (should it ever need it)
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should be pretty much zero - machine tolerance only
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Hmmm.....shiny shiny :) (oh, and never too loud) John - I dont have any clearance issues..... I'm running 1/2 inch block on the rear and lowered front springs, also 14*5.5 rims with 185 tyres (extremely close to same rolling radius as stock 13" rims) Not sure what you have susp'n-wise Maybe I'm not trying hard enough to notice lol
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I have something floating round in my head about mini-steamers to 'form' flat carpet......
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Looks similar fit to mine regards the rear cans... Must say, I like the rear most mounts for the cans - very neat. I would swap out those clamps for some full stainless (W4 type) ones by Mikalor.... They look sleeker if nothing else 8)
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I had chestnut originally.....think it was one of the first things to go when i started the strip of the GT - not all was original though, seem to recall the arches being erm...awful lol I will speak to the guy who is going to re-do my seats (still not got them done.....3 yrs after first speaking to him lol) I too want good quality if I'm gonna do it - don't want it wearing through after a year
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Well, it's time to make the interior look a little more plush - currently installed are door cards and couple of foot-well mats 🤔 I'm quite happy now everything has bedded in etc... so time to be comfy 🙂 GT6 mk3 (Non-roto) I've looked into carpets previously, and the price range is vast.... from circa £80 to £400+ from NC Obvious question: Is the NC molded set worth the dosh..? I think molded set is preferred, as should give the better end result in fit etc... I will be putting some 'under-felt' or something to help with reducing cockpit noise, but likely to be not more than 3mm thick... Does fitting 'underlay' cause any issues with molded carpets...? What carpet sets have you guys put in yours..? Then there is the colour issue - NC only do a handful of 'original' colours...... Arrghh...Maybe I'll stick with door-cards and mats LOL Any info greatly appreciated. Cheers
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Mk4 Spit fuse upgrades - further recommendations
stevegt6 replied to hyperhale's topic in Electrical
Gt6s wrote:That clutch cylinder is on the wrong side Think you'll find its the steering wheel on the wrong side ;D -
Ooops....my bad Ah, close up photos - They do show a bit of work to be done.....enough to keep you occupied 🙂
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It was a long time ago (15yrs almost exactly) - only drove it back from S.Wales and couple of days after and not again until a year ago :) Everything on the bulkhead got ditched (including that servo......yes, I know :-/ )
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Mk4 Spit fuse upgrades - further recommendations
stevegt6 replied to hyperhale's topic in Electrical
Like - Nice and neat 8) Your breakdown of circuits makes me want to re-visit my wiring. Maybe some heat-shrink covering connectors - can get many colours, so should be able to match, if so inclined. -
9077 wrote:Just to be clear my GT6 is non rotoflex late. It has a single master cylinder and had a Girling servo as standard. Master cylinder to 3 way union, (on the bulk head by the battery) one feed to rear brakes one to servo. Feed from servo to 3 way union (on the chassis near the passenger side front wheel) one feed L/H front, one feed R/H front. Steve, good pics! Red brake pipes! Wow! And a nice rocker cover. No vacuum? Sounds like mine was originally....I think...although only pic can find is this one..... (Seems to have an extra bleed nipple too..) Vac pipe....pic was sometime ago, still being put together - Vacuum is there
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Since my post earlier, mine has settled quite a bit - still got the 40kg in but has quite what I would call 'normal' neg camber for these... Will have to check all the nuts n bolts again I think... Neil, Seems that it takes quite a few miles to bed-in a new spring... So, what do you Race boys do to achieve / alter the rear camber...?
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Pic showing the union.... Incoming from servo not plumbed-in/shown It is definitely not that shiny now
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ok....try again...
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Here's a pic of my aftermarket Lockheed servo - Single hose in from master cylinder (not visible) and the hose coming out goes to the 4-way union... Don't know if it helps any... :)
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Cant remember how mine was originally (GT6 mk3) - It had the original Girling Powerstop servo, a 4-way brass union, so must have done all 4 wheels as I have re-used the union. Current set up (and very happy with - meaning I have confidence in stopping when I need to and when I have to) Hose from master to servo, hose from servo to union - then copper to rear, front left and front right. Stops true and straight with no twitchyness. Have you got the twin master cylinder from spit 1500 (or some other dual outlet master) and therefore a dual system...and thus have one going to servo (and then fronts) and the other outlet straight to rear...?
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Couple more showing tail pipes at rear... These are just the standard stainless type that I think all the suppliers sell. The back boxes are a couple of mm from the rear x-member, so cannot go further back - would have to modify the 'tails' if want shorter