stevegt6
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Everything posted by stevegt6
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After some poking around and checking wires and what not based on the above replies, and other than adding another earth to the block, couldn't find anything out of sorts... So, I decided to check the ign lamp itself - pulled the holder out and turned to position 2.... Nice bright light and goes out once started. Hmmm.... It seems it is just the red 'jewel' that makes it appear dim - will have to take speedo clock out and look further....
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Which nuts..? As you mention tracking, I assume you mean the track-rod-ends locking nuts??? If it is these, are all track-rod-ends the same length from different manf'rs..???
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I would have thought minimum rotor thickness would be dependent upon how hard one brakes - regardless if there is a 'legal' limit... If you drive fast and brake hard, then I would say the minimum thickness to be greater than for some-one who drives Miss Daisy, as more heat generated and more likely to warp... Are the originals about 8mm thick?? If so, you have roughly 6.5mm thick rotors, so few miles left in them yet
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I've got Uniroyal Rainsport 2 fitted to my GT6 - I'm running on 14 x 5.5 minilites - can't remember the size ottomh, but they have stuck well to the road and no noticeable noise (although if I could hear the tyre noise, something would be wrong) 🙂
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Some good points to check there.... I have similar related issues - Very dim ignition light and not starting 'on the button' Will check the wires and earthing.
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Any pics of said nearly complete mk3?? Timing - Will depend what you have done to the engine... Standard or up-rated 😎 etc.. I would set it at what the engine seems happy with and sounds right, then book a rolling road session and get it set proper - It does make a difference. From memory, the outer glass weather seal and inner finisher are fitted last and with the glass wound down - There is a 'special tool' used to pull the clips up onto the door skin.... Basically a strip of steel about 1mm thick with one end bent almost 180 degrees (there is a diagram in the factory WM with the radius etc..) Or you can buy them off the interweb pretty cheaply too. I stuck each clip with a bit of blu-tak so they didn't fall off while positioning along the trim - Make sure you get good quality seals.... They should have a slight rebate at clip positions. HTHs a little.
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An aluminium rad would (should) work much more efficiently - Ali tends to be used for all sorts of heat sinks etc... Like quite a few have said, a lot is to do with how clean the rad and waterways are - Also suspect water flow is a key factor too... When rebuilding my mk3, I looked for ages waiting for a sensibly priced aluminium one to appear - never did (in time) so fitted the new reproduction one, which had to have its neck shortened to clear bonnet. So, my current cooling is standard size rad, all new hoses (Si) plus elec fan only on temp sensor. Fan is same diameter as rad width. I also have fitted aluminium side valances and rad cowel. Oh, the fan is fitted on the engine side of rad - quite loud when running, but does draw through a lot of air. Temp gauge typically sits to the left of half, but does creep to just over half if sat in traffic. Not had any overheating issues (touch wood) and have driven a few hot days. I don't have front bumper fitted, so probably get little extra airflow area with that... In answer to the original question - I would go for same depth core in aluminium, but make it almost hexagonal in shape (not sure if shape matters so long as water flows through it) so keeping the same overall height also, but gaining quite a bit extra on the sides....prob close to 30% or so. That would be quite costly to make though I suspect. Anyone run one of those standard sized Aluminium rads on theirs..?
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Having driven a few Land Rovers with LT77's ....and to partially quote 'M'
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Stick a long extension bar to your ear and see if can narrow the location - It won't work like a divining stick btw, you'll have to stick it against engine/engine parts Surprising how much / what you can hear inside...
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Got mine off eBay after a lot of searching etc.. (UK supplier - but made in China obviously) £50 - Which, if they do last, is pretty good against circa £17-18 for the Philips Xtreme Vision +130% Looked at some 'UK' made ones at circa £125 pair and the ones I got look almost identical. 'Bulbs' have interchangeable 'filters' giving you different colour output (4300k / 6000k / 8000k) They state Canbus error free, but followed by a caveat saying some new vehicles my still require resistors to prevent warning lights and flickering. Reckon on 50,000 hrs use on average. HTH's
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I have just (about 2 week ago) fitted LED H4 'bulbs' to my 110 defender - Had original H4 patterned glass units fitted. Put new wipac crystal clear units in, then tried in order: Original H4 (halogen) - A little brighter than original Philips xtreme 130% H4 (Halogen) - Much brighter than original LED - MUCH MUCH brighter....a lot more light spread directly in front. Has quite a sharp cut-off too, and thus far no problems from other drivers etc.. They are Hi-Lo 'bulbs' but the Hi-beam doesn't add a great deal really, just a tad more distance - the dipped/driving is excellent and more than adequate. Spec: 25w / 35w (Lo-Hi) Lumens is quoted as being 2000 per 'bulb' Built-in fan unit Fully waterproof I will be fitting the same 'bulbs' to the GT6 before it comes out again My two-penneth fwiw
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There is typically a lot of play to be had with the doors, pretty much in all directions - But, like you say, if it's had cills or door skin and not fitted quite right etc, it will be best fit....Unless you want to repaint Not that familiar with the earlier bonnet hinges, I have mk3 GT6, and does have a fair bit of tolerance. You will certainly have easier job with another pair of hands. Not much help I know... S
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I have something similar to couple of the above... Simple. Works.
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Carpet arrived from NC day or two back... Here are my comments thus far after inspection and some loose trial fitting... As has been said, and expected, the thickness is nowhere near that of non-moulded - I would liken its thickness/pile to that which is factory fitted in my Alfa Romeo.... It feels very similar and similar thickness. Time will tell on how well it will wear. Finish and fit of panels appears good - some trimming will be required (it states that in the destructions) Is it worth paying more than double..? Don't know, as really I would need to fit both to find out....and that would involve buying one twice, which ever came out on top... Waiting on Dynamat delivery before fitting can begin. Will post update and some pics... Cheers
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Think it would be noticable before 4 turns...
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Not sure if the studs are different lengths from mk3 GT6 to spit 1500..... Are yours 'genuine' wheels or the 'look-a-likes'..? Thinking back, again i am talking 'genuine' minilites, had them fitted on a 1500 back in the day and dont recall an issue... Does sound like too short a stud or the wheel thickness too thick... I have 'genuine' minilites fitted and use the chromed closed nuts that come with - most certainly a lot more than 4 turns with standard studs on rear (fronts are CC's hubs) I am currently trying to source some Stainless ones, but it is proving difficult... Let me know if you need any measurements...
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Doesn't seem to be anything bracing the body-tub..?
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Doesn't seem to be anything bracing the body-tub..?
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I will update when NC set arrives. I did get couple of (small) samples a year or two back - Didn't seem that 'thin', but not as thick as the non-moulded. I suspect there is a limit on the thickness the machines can 'mould' - I don't know what the carpets they provide for other Marques are like (moulded or not..
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Well, just ordered moulded set from NC - This was after trial fitting a non-moulded set and was not happy with the way it was fitting (the quality was good...edgings, stitchng etc..) I bought some moulded footwell mats from NC about year ago and they fit like a glove with mouldings for every bit. Not gone for red - had a bit of a change of thought on that...
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When I bought my headlining, from NC, it came with 2 sets of 'strips' obviously cut from a template as they were not just straight strips - one set for the 'A' post and the other for the 'B' post. The main headlining came a good 6 inches down the 'A' post and about 4 on the 'B' post... I made the 'overlap' at the start of the narrowest bit between seals. Seems to tie-in with the other replies :)
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Is steering stiff ALL the time whether stationary or moving...? If so, does sound like something very slightly out of alignment... Is it same all tightened but wheels off the ground... or only once lowered to ground does steering become stiff..?