stevegt6
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Everything posted by stevegt6
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That doesn't look 'rotten' - panel gaps look good, door shut lines seem pretty good too....also bumpers look very good. Obviously, photos can be deceiving, but it does look like a lot of 'surface' stuff - my guess its either been outside fully covered in a tarp or something (condensation is the enemy), or stored in a shed with open sides. All the small chassis triumphs are simple machines - meaning there is very little to break down / go wrong and kept tip-top with minimal routine stuff. Of course one can upgrade/modernise/etc.. til you've spent all your money and then some more Check out gt6ls1.com for a rather nice 'upgrade'
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892 wrote: Is there really different types/grades of ScotchBrite? Dark grey - Brown - Dark green - Light green - Maroon - Light grey - White (Ordered Coarsest to Finest) ....There could be more..???
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OK....few pics of the fuel routing on my GT6
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Couple of pics...
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Various grades available
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Welcome onboard... Could do with bit more info on the current state of your new acquisition - Is it a basket case....or just a bit tired etc... Recently put mine back on the road after body-off resto (still not finished, but on the road) - This was my first 'full' nut and bolt project, and one thing above all that I learnt, was DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY until the very end (oh, and that I actually don't know everything 😀) Also, take lots of pics before/during/after etc.. And on here.....well, everything from normal to nutty
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For cleaning, Autosol and scotch-pad. For protection, like Clive suggests, a normal wax based polish should do fine.
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Got something similar to Wimpus on my GT6 - may have a pic somewhere or will snap a couple tomorrow. I am running mine (MK3) without rear bumper and the ends do poke out very slightly beyond the body, but only just - again, a pic will be better...
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Got mine routed across the rear (all braided ST-ST from mech pump as well) - will post a pic or two tomorrow......assuming I remember that is I've had no issues with heat/vapourisation etc... and I am not shy with the right foot, so gets pretty warm. Also been on RR and fuel flow is more than adequate right through the range for the HS6's fitted.
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Different motor, but, I fitted new spring on late mk3 GT6 and a 1/2 inch spacer/lowering block - when first hit the tarmac it had some pos camber to the rear, so loaded it up with 4x 20kg cement bags for about 6 months. I am now at 40kg 1 year and 2500 miles later and it still has not settled that much. The wheels are pretty much dead vertical with the 40kg in it. Certainly handles better with the weight in it. I am looking to fit some driveshaft spacers - maybe starting at 6mm / 1/4 inch to get me some neg camber. In direct answer to your question: I dont think my 1/2 inch spacer made much difference in terms of camber.
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I have fitted one from canleys - bought some 5 or 6 years ago (circa £100), so not sure if still the same. Easy fitting (GT6 mk3), looks nice, and I have confidence in the brakes - Not noticed any 'sudden' servo action, all very 'normal'. Running stock front calipers with mintex pads and stock rear. Obviously not like modern cars where you can blow on the brake pedal and see some reaction. Might look into 4-pot and vented upgrade - some weight loss and more stopping power. Cant argue with that.
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I used titanium exhaust wrap - a little more expensive, but looks much cooler 8) Wrapped it just beyond the seats... Welcome to 2015 ya'll :)
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Don't think you can beat genuine minilites...imo Check out http://www.tyresave.co.uk/minilite.html - they do all off-sets and PCDs and in several finishes too... I went for black 8) Also, I've had 6x14's (bought from TSSC yrs ago) fitted to spit 1500 and no issues - current 5.5x14's on GT6 MK3 Oh, and who would want to put MG wheels on their Triumph..!!! :P
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I have rear seat - missing the cylinder locks though. Not going to fit as completely pointless/useless as a seat - Yes, it does give it a 'finished' look to it, but without it, it still looks nice. Kids in back....nah. Unless on private land where there are no dickheads driving like time is running out or johnny foriengner without licence or insurance
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mine fitted ok.......but thats on a GT6 8)
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Is the Rad original or after market...? If after market, then chances are it is the rad at fault - This was another of my 'lessons learned' on my re-build (GT6 mk3) ....foolishly (I now know) I opted for a new replacement rad....didnt fit it until about 2 or 3 yrs later and had to have the filler cap section and top hose hard pipe both lowered as hitting the bonnet. I found a tiny little rad place to do the work, but they basically said most of the new stuff for 'classics' was cheap crap.
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Atlas.....errr....interesting :P
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Main rear section goes under pass seat, through hole in cill and up over rear inner arch to rear corner and then across to o/s lights... The front i cant remember off-hand, but i have slightly mod'd mine but mostly goes original route... Check for continuity of the wires before fitting - rather than assume, in my case, a new loom would be all ok..
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JohnD wrote:Except in the extreme cicumstances of PROLONGED motorway driving AND hot weather, or racing, an oil cooler is unnecessry. The vast majority of the time your thermostat will be closed and your expensive cooler is wasted. To justify fitting one MEASURE the oil temp imm. after the most stressful drive you can do. Remember that oil runs best hotter than the water so about 120C. Even better invest in an oil temp gauge and calibrate it before use. You can get neat dipstick sensor sets for VWs that need no plumbing. Know what you are doing - don't guess! John This seems to replicate what 'Mad-Max' :P (Previously of Totally Triumph) always said... He would always ask 'why? ....'Are you racing it..?'
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Think will investigate the stud fixing further - certainly before i sort the rear load area boards
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Mj17 wrote:No-one's asked the obvious yet - where do the wires go...? I did :P
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Hope these help.....
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Mine is only fixed (viewed from rear) front right and middle left ....is that stud 'fixed' or is it lose..? Tank is certainly solid enough as is, but that fixing stud would add to that...
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Hmmm.....had you asked that 2 weeks ago, I would certainly have said yes.... I have had a good clear-up and tidy-up - so in theory, it should be in the box marked 'seals & Rubbers' if I kept it... Let you know later...
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I have ST-ST extractor manifold on my GT6 which only just misses (after a wee modification) the starter by about 1/2 inch - get pretty hot too and no problems thus far....circa 1250 miles