stevegt6
-
Posts
178 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by stevegt6
-
Stainless finisher going to go on eBay unless anyone on here shouts up for free :) Located Wigan area....... and would rather collection as postage will be cumbersome.....large, but no weight at-all
-
wire switch to relay wire starter sol to relay wire earth to relay..??? where does the remaining wire go..???
-
Nice colour (looks close to code 19?)....Very nice indeed..!!! I got ins for mine (GT6 mk3) prior to completion - not much further on than yours appears to be (painted and rolling) ....I opted for 1500 mile policy as new it would be on road before renewal. Told them how it was, took the appropriate photos they asked for with other blurb about condition and work done etc... along with my figure for agreed value. They look over the blurb etc and give there considered value, which in my case, they agreed with my figure. It needed to be garaged also. Adrian Flux btw .... £105
-
Yes (from elsewhere though) - spacer used. Nice upgrade. Cheers
-
Well, here is front screen seal photo... Anyone interested in having the stainless finisher..?
-
3669 wrote:Just took my old screen out, my 10 year old seal is reusable but I couldn't get the ally trim in before. Where did you get the plain seal from & is all still ok? Got the plain seal from VW parts supplier on ebay - VW Camper T2 FRONT WINDSCREEN RUBBER SEAL 1968-79 211-845-121D NEW BAY BUS TYPE2 (171188720463) All seems to be ok. The above needs cutting as too long....we used super-glue (one which stated rubber on the uses) I had forgotten about posting pic....will try to remember tomorrow.... I have a stainless-steel finisher not being used (nor will it be) - if interested....although the 2 join finishers are missing I might do same for rear window too....
-
That's good news - might just check my tyre pressure too...lol Funny sometimes how a few little things transform the ride/handling etc.... Also, regards shakes n rattles and not sure how recent you have had it back on road from rebuild, but if only recent, be sure to check all nuts n bolts at least once a week after use whilst it all beds in.
-
Every one of mine has done that (2 spits and 2 GT6) - the bushed rack mounts do give a bit of 'damping' but not much... I have solid mounts and solid joint and whilst very precise, you do feel a bit more from the roads - especially the crap roads in uk. Try to drive less in built up areas where full of grids, manholes, potholes, cracks, steel plates (where workers cant be arsed doing proper repairs and just chuck a big plate on road.......small rant over lol) Once out in the countryside, it is much smoother :) Have you got adjustable dampers - back them right off for around town.....makes a big difference
-
Well, windscreen seal now replaced with a nice plain black one - looks good and is really nice fit. Will post a photo later - OE people look away now :P
-
I would suggest whatever length they/the website tells you, add an inch or two - better to be bit long than bit short Bought mine as front/rear kit (mk3 GT6) - fronts ok but rears are, imo, an inch too short as when jack up, say to change wheel or whtever, the flexi-hose goes real tight. I shall be replacing them at some point in near future for bit longer ones
-
Not put mine back on...yet - However, when i took old ones off, the PO had used the standard clips but had also filled the trim with silicon and then fixed into place. No rust, but perhaps not a solution i would go for, as they were a right bastard to get off..!! (resulting in new wing finishers) My current plan is to use clips and clear waxoyl....be interesting to hear what others have done / are planning...
-
rotoflex wrote:Is the switch in the gear knob or on the steering column? Gear-knob (GT6 mk3)
-
Ok, now got working OD ;D Was just the brown wire take off from ignition terminal....quite obvious that sharing the starter wire will only have power when cranking - I guess i just wired it up to the numbered terminal in factory manual and moved on.... However, I do an a shorting issue with the switch in place - I have had to cover all metal surfaces to underside of switch with insulation tape to stop (mostly) the shorting. Like when i go for reverse, for example, because pressing down on stick, it shorts and relay clicks....but same happens if apply pressure when driving in 1, 2, 3 or top If i lift switch clear of stick it is all ok.... I think will order new switch part and hope it be a little shallower.....
-
Does it matter which way round the 2 wires up to the gear-nob switch are connected - i have a brown and a blue wire....would have to peel off some sleeving to see which goes where further down. Yes, the W/R wire going to start solenoid is only live on cranking - so one of the wiring diagrams is wrong. I have the original factory workshop manual and the ever present haynes......and following them, gave me brown sharing with W/R - should have twigged that was'nt right... Anyway, will have a couple of hours this evening on it and see how it goes.... :) Edit: Just realised it doesnt really matter about the 2 wires up the stick to swuitch which way round.....it either be 'in' is 'in' or 'in' is 'out' and 'out' is 'in'
-
Quote:I did cook the pads on an alpine descent last year, would that have any bearing? Depends on the pads - they may have glazed and hardened.... What pads..? MC could have wrong size (larger) seals in it - when i bought my GT6, many many moons ago, i had to really stand on the pedal to get any sort of braking (rather nervous 250 mile trip back with it) and it turned out wrong size seal kit had been put in....
-
sounds like an earthing issue or a shorting... does it mainly happen when you go over a bump or pothole...??
-
Quote:I am not convinced that you have a wire to the relay common with the red/white wire I am inclined to agree with that.... However, if i do give C1 a perm feed the solenoid engages, and remains so, no matter if switch is on or off...
-
Obvious question :P ....Did you bleed brakes afterwards...? Does pumping the pedal once or twice give a better pedal...? if yes, then air in system most likely Is your pedal rock hard from the start..? what pedal travel do you have.....little or lots...? Are brakes free....no sticky pistons or shoes or seized or collapsed rubber flex hoses...? or nothing hindering the travel of either pedal or mechanism..?
-
Ok, having trouble deciding what is at fault with the o/d, wiring or relay.... GT6 mk3 Relay Wiring is this: C1 - Brown from ignition term 1 (same as white/red to starter solenoid) C2 - Yellow / Purple from solenoid W1 - White from ignition term 2 W2 - Yellow / Green from switch With ignition at position 2 and in 4th with o/d switch engaged I have these readings at relay: C1 - 0v C2 - 0v W1 - 12v W2 - 0v Manual says i should have 12v also at C1(brown)...??? but if i do apply 12v then it tries to start because the white/red is on same ignition terminal...? Solenoid appears to be working....if remove brown from C1 and apply an external 12v in 4th the solenoid operates - regardless if switch is in or out....is that right...??? I do find electricals rather perplexing even though there are only a few wires lol Everything has good earths and wiring all new Appreciate the help :)
-
Could someone post pics of their alternator please
stevegt6 replied to Sidewaysste's topic in Electrical
sorry for delay.....a few technical issues.. Spacer length i have (mk3 gt6) with CC's alloy mount bracket is 35mm - will post pic as soon can -
Could someone post pics of their alternator please
stevegt6 replied to Sidewaysste's topic in Electrical
Is it GT6...? - yes it is....just noticed earlier post... Will do photo and measure length of spacer - give me a short while... -
Quote:I can confirm that the Lucas 33756 152SA switch fits and works perfect. Worth noting...and noted.
-
Looks like a Mountney (13in) dished with boss - would look good in any small chassis i reckon I know there was a short period with the Spit 1500's where they fitted a 'non-triumph' (so to speak) steering wheel...... maybe 1978..??? (could be wrong of course :))
-
Looks nice and neat John Where did you get carpet from.... Newton Comm...?? or other..?? Also, is there some guidance anywhere which bits get glued etc... maybe it comes with the carpet when buy it...? I am few months off before do interior, as i want to run it for a bit and make sure everything is right - dont want to fit it and then take half of it out... Cheers S
-
I have recently done this very thing... Mine had sat for about nearly 14yrs...the last 4 being dry. I thought just pouring some petrol in and giving the tank a good proper shake and emptying, then again...then again would be enough. NO, it was not....and my tank was/is in good condition. I still had fine rust bits in filter immediately after each start up. Get on the Frost website and buy the tank lining stuff, along with marine clean and metal prep - about £60 for the 3 (3x 1L) Tank is now totally mint inside and fuel is crystal :) Well worth the time & money imo. Recommend using forced hot air to dry tank FULLY before prep and lining. HTH's S