Rich_s
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Everything posted by Rich_s
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Hi Tony, I have tried that, the car wont run with the jet that high at the moment with the jets as per the pics its running slightly on the lean side. i am going fit a diff breather pipe so both carbs are linked but not connected to the rocker box and see how it goes, can then just rig up a simple breather bottle to catch the fumes in. Rich
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I have checked the breather pipes and they are all ok and sealed nicely, but wondering if it could be sucking in too much air from the rocker box somehow, filler cap seems tight enough and base seal seems ok but could it get in anywhere else? might try linking the 2 carbs so i know its not sucking in anymore air from anywhere and see if that makes any difference... rich
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first thing i would check is the bypass valve in the side of the engine, i have had problems before with mine sticking open and losing a lot of the pressure, easy enough to take out and make sure it moves freely. rich
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think i read somewhere that a warm engine at 2k revs should be about 40psi, cold mine is about 65-70 i think and warm its just under 40, at tickover its down to about 15 i think, main thing is to have constant smooth pressure i think, figures not too important, as long as got some obviously :)
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The needles on mine look the same as your first pic, wasnt sure how they came out as i took the screw out but that didnt loosen anything off ;D but i could read the type through the hole. at the moment i am just wondering how mine is at 5.5 turns out with everything else std apart from the jet bearing, seems they are more than double where they should be but mixture is right, maybe slightly lean if anything. any idea what that bit of plastic is, guessing mine shouldnt stick out that much, should it stick out at all do you know? rich
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the needles look to be the same and cant see how the height could be altered as they look to go in from the top, could be wrong though. just wondered if because of the bearing being too low it was affecting the air flow over the top of the jet so less fuel is being sucked in, not an expect in air flow though, thinking for the sake of £20 i may just get new ones and see how it goes. rich
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both pistons have the plastic sticking out but one is about .25mm where as the other is more like 1mm if not more. thanks, appreciated. the rest of the carbs all seem to tally up as expected, both needles are the same and are ADN needles. so guessing the wrong jet bearing is having an adverse effect and causing the jet to need to be far lower than normal.
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oops missed last one:
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Been out and took them apart and got some more pics which show a bit more, first one is how it looks now inside the carb, 2nd is from the outside to show how they are fitted, 3rd one is the jet bearing removed, guessing it shouldnt have those grooves in it heheheheheh, 4th one is a diagram of sizes so looks like its 2.5mm short and final one is another issue i found, the front carb has a bit of plastic sticking out the end of the piston stopping it going all the way to the bottom, what on earth is this as cant see how to remove as it just spins round, any ideas?
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The mixture seems to be fine, tyre pressures are at 28 all round which seems to give even tyre wear, timing is spot on, plugs and filters brand new, rest is all std stuff. was just hoping to get a bit more mpg out of it if possible, if not then so be it but if a few bits arent right and causing problems then would prefer to change them. my only wonder is why it needs more than twice the amount of turns to get a decent mixture out of it, did think the lower height of bearing is upsetting air flow so petrol isnt being sucked in properly, or someone has put in the wrong needles, important things first though - finish me brew then off outside to get working. thanks rich
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The car does run ok but dont seem as powerful as i thought it would and it does seem a bit flat below about 2.5k revs the main issue is mpg, it is averaging about 39mpg being driven as sensibly as i can and cruising about 50/55mph so am in a quest to try and make sure its as good as it can be from a std engine but with electronic iginition. the jet itself is currently at just over 5 turns out just to get it to run although the mixture is about right so just making sure the carbs are all std and bits are correct. Wim, its a 79. rich
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My guess is they are the wrong parts for some reason, will soon find out! As far as can remember the front one is fzx1327f and the rear is fzx1327r, will find out when they come off 2moro morning. thanks rich
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Finally got time to get the carbs off this weekend so 2moro morning i'll remove one of them and measure the jet bearing to see if that is the problem, thought i would also check what needle i have as well, how does the needle come out, is it just undo the screw and slide out through the top? the carbs are, i think, FZX1327 which looks like the needles do come out through the top but never removed them so not sure... thanks rich
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found a pic of someone elses carbs but looks the same as mine do, although mine may have a deeper recess but you get the idea:
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yes, 1979 spit 1500, they do have the tags but not got number to hand, as far as i know everything is completely std on them and the car does run ok, but tickover always been lumpy and seems to lack power compared to what i would expect. as far as i know the jet bearings have not been changed but they certainly dont look right, i'll get a photo of them asap and post on here so you can see what i mean, am just wondering if by swapping them for correct ones it will run better and smoother. thanks rich
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I have one of each on mine and they look the same, steel one rotting away badly now though so replacement fibreglass one waiting to be painted and fitted. rich
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the jet itself doesnt quite go flush, but to get it to run properly and have the correct mixture it is currently at 31 flats or just over 5 turns down.
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Mine has been changed to the fixed jets (what a pain in the arse they are to fit! link rods are not a good design and bend over the float bowl bolt, on mine anyway) and the jet itself can go all the way up but to get it to run it has to be about 5 turns out, my get bearing though is about 2mm lower than in your pics at least, maybe more. thanks rich
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Nope the jet is def going all the way back up, that was one of the issues recently, the rear carb one kept sticking open slightly giving me running problems. rich
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I remember a while back i took it apart and nothing stopping it going in any further, just seemed too short, will take it apart when get a chance and look for a part number. no idea on the needle Pete, which bit should i be checking against, sorry for daft question as never took that bit apart. as far as i know the needle is central and piston moves very freely. both needles sit the same height as well. yes the choke does return in fully as well and mixture is about right. thanks rich
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Having had problems with my car recently and in particular the carbs causing problems, i have thought i would try to fix one issue i have always had. The jet bearings in my carbs sit about 2mm lower than the carb body instead of almost flush, because of this (maybe) to get the mixture right the nut is wound out 5 turns on standard needle, it runs ok but i can only just get 39mpg driving slowly, and cruising at 55mph with careful acceleration. the car is standard and just had complete service and carb overhaul. found a picture which shows how the jets should sit, mine is nothing like this, could i have the wrong jet bearings fitted?
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Mine does the smae and has for a while, had a new clutch about 18k ago and been juddering like that for last 10k, seems to only do it on a hot engine, when cold its fine, i just rev it higher and accelerate quicker off the line and slip the clutch more if it annoys me in the hope it will wear out faster then just buy a new one hehehehe mine has not gone far since last MOT so UJ's are ok, am pretty sure my gearbox leaks slowly as everything else does but not too quickly. good luck with yours. rich
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thats where i have had a problem on my carbs, the bearing is not flush and when fully screwed in the jet is not flush with the bridge either, so have just had to play around until the plugs are the right colour, which seams about 4.5 turns from fully in and half way between the top of bridge and top of bearing....
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thats what i would think as well, but not the case, the last mot a few months ago said it was actually running a bit lean! it did seem like the first 2 turns hardly lowered it at all though, also the jet bearing doesnt sit flush with the bridge either like i thought it should do, the bottom pic above shows it sort of. not sure if someone has fitted different needles at some point but the plugs are normally light tan and doing about 40mpg so seems ok, or did before last 2 weeks or pain hehehehe rich
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I think it may now be working..... but i have said this before ;D took it apart and there was something blocking the jet, seems to have been a bit of the papertowel type stuff i cleaned them out with so my fault :( put back together, fuel could then bee seen in jet and it ran but not as well as it should and wouldnt without at least a bit of choke, then remembered i have altered the jet heights to the std 2.5 turns out, so i set this back to what it was before i started, 4.5 turns out, and now it runs as it should, so tickover set and carbs balanced and running loads better. so from start to finish it has had new plugs, air filters, fuel filters cleaned out, fuel pipe broke down inside so been replaced, piston dampers topped up, carbs completely rebuilt twice and lots of gunk removed, new float valves as old ones were leaking and one final problem of the thermostat starting to fail and opening at higher temps than it was. have noticed the fan belt needs changing as well, i have a new one to go on but not sure if i dare touch anything else heheheheheheh thanks rich