Rich_s
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Everything posted by Rich_s
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which bit do you need a photo of? happy to pull mine apart for a few pics, although behind the speedo is a bit bleedin tricky :D
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Alex wrote:Today would probably be good Mark ;D that is a brilliant response ;D ;D ;D
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I used to have an old mini that failed an mot on all 4 UJ's, every time you put it in gear in clunked, had done it for years but no mot picked it up until i moved house and changed garage. took them apart and on some of them there was the inner cross piece's, the outer buckets but no roller bearings, you could grab the drive shafts and turn then quite a way, been driving like it for at least 3 years, the clunking was the slack being taken up :) in past experience i would say you should be fine but thats only my choice, up to you really. if dont put full power through i would guess you should be ok, but up to you really. rich
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make sure the belt is not too tight......
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there is a glimmer of hope left on the horizon, have read in the Moss catalogue that if the drive gear between the dizzy shaft and the cam does not have the correct float between itself and the dizzy mount body then it causes wear if too tight and a rattle if too big.... might be the cause of the problem if i am lucky, most things that mention the cam followers wearing away say that the tappet gap keeps getting bigger, mine stays as is so there is a slight chance it is this, wont hold my breath though :) rich
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Well, bugger.........dizzy swapped over, engine sounded the same, still got the rattling coming from the gap between the dizzy and the engine block, def sounding like a tapping at half engine speed so presume this sort of confirms its a problem with the cam followers being worn..... guess this means a top end rebuild is required and that 1500cc lump doesnt have the convenient tappet chest covers like on the A series engines, so much easier :) guess i will just have to live with the noisy engine as i'm not rebuilding the bleeding top end just for that - too much of a pain in the arse. that car really does annoy me a times, will just have to get a louder back box for the exhaust :) rich
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The Mg distributor swap will only be for a few moments to see if the rattling stops, if it does i know its that, finger crossed
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.....and the saga continues. Just done an oil change today including removing the sump as never done that, little bit of sludge but not much, check the big ends and no play in them so guess thats one good thing. the rattling is still there though, have put new springs in the rocker shaft but made no difference. i had the dizzy apart today and noticed there is play, if i hold the bit at the bottom i can push the shaft up and down more then i think i should be able to, but couldnt get the end off to put a bigger washer in, also noticed that one of the springs is very loose where one was tight, am guessing this is wrong as well, could either of these little problems cause a rattling, its either these or one of the middle two cylinders cam followers, its driving me nuts :D i will hopefully be swapping the dizzy for a known perfect one off an MG in a few weeks so can see if it makes any diff at all, if not i guess i either have to put up with it it take the engine apart. on another plus side today i fitted a new thermostat and engine temp back to normal again :) rich
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mines a sort of oily crappy black ish colour :) with a bit of rust for good measure :)
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this goes to show i should never trust my memory, have just took the tops off and it has the springs in there, along with lots or crap and not much oil in the damper, so guess it could be these having an effect on the running? I swear i have never seen them springs before, i must be going mad, all cleaned out and topped up with oil. thanks for your help guys, i need to remember to take the car apart first then ask questions, not just rely on my useless memory :) rich
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Thanks Alec, i have some old motorbike carbs that happen to have 4.5oz carb springs, but they are the thin ones not the thick ones, am going to put them in and see what difference they make then sort out getting the correct ones if they make the car run better. thanks rich
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Just checked my carbs and they are FZX1327. i have done just 16,000 miles on the current setup and always thought there was something not quite right but never found it and just accepted that was the way this car ran, checked everything over and everything was standard including the needles but never occurred to me the spring was missing, doh! would be nice to know what it should have so i can fit them one day. thanks rich
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Just been flicking through the Moss catalogue as i need some bits for my car, spit 1500, i have noticed that in the dashpots on the HS4's it it supposed to have a spring in there as well as the damper, i have had the car for almost 3 years and took the carbs apart a fair bit and never noticed this before, just wondering how big a difference it makes and whether i should bother getting some o not? second question is which ones as its not that clear, seem to be either a slim spring or very wide one, but if not needed i'll continue to do without. thanks rich
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tappets are still as they were as have not re-checked yet, i do know that each of the rockers has a slight indent where the valve touches which is visible so if i set to 8 thou i would guess that the gap is still over 10 thou overall, i dont have a click adjust tool only feeler gauges so can't be certain of the exact gap, but there is still a slight tappet rattle so i guess all is still ok. It still has a leaded head so if it does eventually burn a valve out its a good excuse to get it converted to unleaded :) ta rich
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Finally a good result for my car. I have taken the rocker shaft off and found the whole thing gummed up with something like black sticky tar, so i cleaned up everything so all nice and smooth, checked and only found slight wear but was equal on all rockers so can live with it. I rebuilt it all using plenty of clean oil and its made q fair bit of difference, the engine is quieter through the rev range and no nasty noise in the higher rev range, so for once the engine sounds almost how it should :D thanks all rich
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One thing i remember from my old mini, similar starter motor, was that when it had a problem similar to what you describe, i found by spraying liberal WD40 on the shaft that the gear slides up and down, it made a difference and help engage properly, if i took it off the gear was quite slow at moving my end and did not spin back to the start position very quickly, lots of WD after a clean up worked, not brilliant solution and i had to keep doing it every few months but kept it working until i sold it ;D are the teeth on the gear in good condition or have they wore down too far? rich
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right, just been out to the car, couldnt wait till 2moro, have also been looking at replacement parts and it looks like i do have a spacer, but it is corroded to the main starter body so looks like one piece :) as a rough guide i would say it is about 8-10mm wide, i can get a better measurement in the morning when its light enough to find my vernier and measure it for you. rich
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No problem, am sure i dont have one on mine, just checked on rimmer bros website though and it does show one, either mine is missing or i really should pay more attention when rebuilding my car :D will have to get the bonnet up in the morning and have a nose :) rich
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I have either not been paying attention when removing mine or it has not got one, as far as i can remember mine has no spacer, just the hole it bolts to and the motor itself? rich
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it doesnt seem to have less power than it ever has, just less than i think it should, by dropping the valve gap from a measured 10 thou to a measured 8 thou the only difference has been it sounds quieter. I will the rockers off again and completely strip and look for wear, the noise if def towards the back of the engine so hopefully will see something on the back 4 rockers. thanks rich
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I am not sure if it is the same rattle at tickover as it is at 4k, tickover sounds like tappets but they all seem fine, it has been mentioned it may be the cam followers causing the tickover rattle, if so it will have to wait until i brave sorting the head out before can check and replace them. Not sure if it dampens if i shut off the throttle, will have a go next time i take it out, pressing the clutch at tickover does not make any difference. One thing i do notice is it is very reluctant to pull past about 4.5k revs as well, it pulls cleanly up to there but at about 4.5k as well as being noisey it seems to lose any power it had and doesnt want to rev any higher, i tend not to drive quickly anyway but would like the engine to be able to do what it was designed to do. thanks rich
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If the head has to come off then its a no go, last time it came off we found a problem with one of the studs and only just got it to hold half the torque setting so am not talking it off as will have to sort that out :( i took the rocker apart last year, all seemed ok with not much twist in the arms, i also filed down the faces taking care not to touch the bit that touches the valve, so the clearances are not too bad and by setting them at 8 thou it has got a lot better but the rattle is still there, seem to be near the top at the back near the bulkhead but cant tell if its coming from the cylinder or rocker box, or even if its the same rattle at tickover as it is when it hits 4k ?????????? am just guessing really. rich
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Having driven my Spit 1500 for last 2 years the rattly engine is getting a bit too annoying and i want to get it sorted, the tappets are fine and set at about 8 thou which did cure a lot of the rattling, i dont think its the timing chain but not sure, it does sound like a tappet rattle but dont think it is, its not too bad a normal revs but as it approaches 4k it gets very noisey and sounds like any more will result in terminal failure, dont think it will but it does sound that way. I am thinking the only other things could be the little end bearings, the noise is def coming from near the top of the engine and it looks like i can replace the little end bearing without removing the engine or top end so would like to know if anyone thinks its worthwhile doing the work, or could the problem lie elsewhere ??????????????? any idea's most appreciated as it really is getting annoying driving a rattly car with only 2/3rds of the rev range available. thanks rich
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I fitted one to mine, bought a T piece and pipe from my local mini shop as the threads are the same, really easy to fit but as others have said, you do watch then all the time, nice to know the pressure is good but can't stop watching it! Rich