Rich_s
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Everything posted by Rich_s
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I ran mine with waxstats and no heat shield for over a year without any problems, only fitted one because i noticed everyone else had one and wondered if made any difference, it didnt, apart from making it slightly harder to get to the exhaust bolts as it covered them up :) rich
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My 1500 has had the waxstats replaced and i have a bit of copper sheeting i had lying around cut and fitted between the carbs and exhaust, everything else is std and never overheats, have had it get very hot a few times when i had left the mechanical fan off over winter and not fitted in summer, was relying on the kenlowe but the connector had come off so no power :) what a muppet, gauge got to about 3/4 and still ran fine until i could get somewhere to let it cool down. sounds like is running a bit lean. rich
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While driving the other day i noticed the car die then pick up again under full throttle acceleration so thought it was about time i cleaned out the fuel filter...........just been and done it and think i should make a habit of cleaning more regularly! i havent always used one but got sick of cleaned the carbs and fuel pump filter all the while so spent a few quid on one i can clean easily. i have done about 20k miles in this car so would have thought all the crap would have come out by now, obviously not....
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dunno if any help, but have had issues with my fuse box for a while until i found the problem, if i ever touched the fuse box or knocked it at all, or was rumaging around the glove box and the wires moved at all i lost all power in the car, fuses ok and power to them but nothing would come out of the fuse box at all..... it also would sometimes not let the headlights turn on, flicked teh switch and nothing for about 1 minute then they would turn on ????? i took the battery off to get more room, pulled the fuses and lightly filed the ends to make them clean and shiney, then disconnected each wire from the fuse box in turn with help of tiny screw driver, filed the brass terminals all shiney, rebuilt the fuse box and not had any issues since, worth a try as only took me about 10-15mins and solved my problems. rich
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i have one of these on mine, http://www.simonbbc.com/electronic-ignition-kits/by-distributor-model/lucas-45d-43d-59d-powerspark-electronic-ignition-kit got mine off ebay for about £20 but now more like £25, been fitted for about 2 years now after going through 3 sets of points in 6months, never touched it since, only other benefit was better starting, not noticed better power or mpg but not having to keep cleaning and adjusting made it worth it for me. rich
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Agree with Andy, primer is not waterproof so hardly any better than nothing at all, think the etch primer is ok to use or epoxy primer if got cash burning a hole in your pocket. if just got normal primer then i would put on a layer or 2 of top coat to protect it, easy enough to sand back before final paint job. rich
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As far as i know you can get the repair panels for the bottom 5-6inches or so of the rear wings, i did them on mine as they had rotted so cut out the bottom bits, cleaned up all inside then welded in new panel, suppose it depends how much of teh inner wing you need to get to, if the whole thing then easier to remove rear wing maybe as the rot tends to go further than you can ever see..... did with mine anyway :)
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just had this problem on my 1500 spit, lights switch on and only got headlights, leave it a few mins and teh rest turned on, turned out it was teh terminals in the fuse box were just too tarnished, cleaned them all up so nice and shiny and now have a working light system again. rich
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i just remove my fan this time of year and rely on the kenlowe kicking in if by some miracle it gets too hot, when temps go below about 7degrees the mechincal fan comes off and above it goes back on, quick and easy job and makes sure i keep warm enough, now just got to figure out why the de-mister on the passenger side blows faster than the drivers side :) have tried some electric heaters in the past and found them useless, much easier to get the engine to do the work to keep me warm :) rich
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The cause of all the problems, and for once its a cheap and easy fix:
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FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just out to a very frozen car and it fired up perfectly, engine spun much faster than normal so think i have found the problem, only taken 2.5 years to find it ;D only goes wrong when cold so have just put up with it, off to order some new bits so can have a proper fix, bits of perspex are nor really a permanent fix.... rich
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After a few weeks of it being very close to not starting in the mornings i may have found the problem! took the starter apart and the 2 live brushes are 8mm and service limit is 9.5 ish, have packed them out a bit to make them sit higher and will be trying to start it in the morning to see if makes a difference although does seem to spin over faster already so fingers crossed this is a quick easy fix! Rich
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rotoflex wrote:That looks different from the mixture I got when my head gasket went. I saw a yellow-ish brown sort of frothy mixture. Mine looked more like a Coke float (When you put a couple of scoops of vanilla ice cream in a tall glass & fill the glass up with Coca- Cola). likewise, whenever i have had to change the oil and gasket when something has let go i have never seem it look like someone poured a few litres or primer in the sump, more like how described above: yellowy brown not primer grey.... no idea what could have caused that, have seen dark grey before when taking an moped gearbox apart that had destroyed itself but how on earth to you get light grey?
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It was only a matter of time and dont see a problem with it, already have gearboxes that are operated by electronics, the throttles are as well and the brakes run through an ABS system so why not the steering? the handling in most cars is now all done by computer, suppose it was only the clutch and steering left. to mess with. still prefer the older cars, proper driving that takes effort to so things, its funny watching people who only drive moderns get in a classic, the steering is too heavy for them, as is the clutch, they cant use the gearbox as too difficult for them and watching them brake on a none servo car is just comical :) with instant throttle response from the cable operated carbs instead of the electronic sensor controlled fuel injection it also makes for a kangaroo journey as well :) just my opinion :) Rich
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Hi Wim, fitting the radiator is fairly easy, the total amount of coolant required according to the manual is 4.5 litres, at least 30% should be neat anti-freeze and the rest water, i usually put about 50% of each so as i top up throughout the year the mixture wont dilute too much :) best way to check the thermostat is look on the top bit and it should state a temperature it opens at, should be about 80 degrees, think mine is a 78 degree one and works fine. put it in pan of water on the stove with a thermometer in, when the thermometer says about 80 degrees you should see the thermostat opening up, if it dont open then its no use so get a new one. rich
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mine has done it ever since i put it back on the road, brand new battery no difference, have to use a jump pack some days and even then it dont spin as faster as i think it should, have tried swapping the battery for the one off my dads MGB, figured if it can turn over a 1.8 then a 1.5 should be no problem, wrong, on the cold days it would barely turn over, am going to try a different solenoid and if no change then a diff starter motor, hopefully one of them will improve it. thanks rich
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have used that trick a few times when working on cars that wont tick over, when you get sick of going round and turning the key you just stick whatever tool you have to hand across the posts and up it fires :) get a few sparks but never had that much, just tend to find the tool tries to get welded to the posts so have to be quick :) rich
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i disconnected the starter just to try and find any resistance that shouldnt be there, the earth path back is all fine and as it should be, the live to the solenoid is fine and from the solenoid to the starter is fine so thought i'd try the solenoid, am thinking something is not right if the starter side has power all the time, and would of thought the voltage drop through the solenoid should not be that noticeable.... i have access to another one so will check what the figures are like with that, mine is possibly the original as rather old looking... rich
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As the weather turns cold again my Spit 1500 starts to get starting problems again, it does it every year, when its cold the engine turns over a little bit too slowly, if i leave it till the afternoon when the temp is much higher it turns over normally, all summer been fine, nows its cold its back to its old tricks again. the starter is in good ish condition, earth path checked and very little resistance back to the battery, all connections cleaned up to shiny metal and covered in grease once reconnected up to stop then corroding. Been and checked the solenoid and i get 12.8 at battery, 12.8 at the battery post on the solenoid, at the other post with ignition completely off i get about 3 volts ?????? battery does not discharge though. if i disconnect the starter motor and turn the ignition as if starting it i get 12.4 volts at the other post, could it be time for a new starter solenoid???? thanks rich
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i have standard wheels and 155 tyres from barum, calipers are good and so are the pads and discs and have never been able to lock then up yet, think you may have really bad front tyres, stick them on the back and have a good laugh like i did :) just watch it in the wet as gets a bit funny :) rich
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some alternators you do, i did with my last 2, ask before buying as saves having to swap them over or buy new bits
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sounds like a duff alternator to me, my old mini did that, all of a sudden it would jump to about 17volts and the headlights went bright, was great as was in middle of sinter and driving around i could see the road for the first time :D after a few weeks though it cooked the battery so had to get a new battery and an alternator, next time i'll know to stop and change the alternator straight away. rich
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just sent you the pics of the wiring on my car, cant get behind the speedo for a pic as takes ages to pull it apart and not got time at the moment, have photo'd what i can though, pics have been emailed as too big to put on here... rich
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i know i can see some of them from underneath so will have a look and see what i can do, the middle bit is easy as only a few screws so can do that easy enough :)